Hi guys I just bought a 1986 rx7 it will start with a tow and run but will not accelerate.I was want to kno if it's a quick fix it's a 13b 5 speed 126000 miles on the engine.I want to just swap it with a 2jz my question is this,if I have a aftermarket ems for the 2jz do I still need a custom harness made for the car and engine to work.

 

So can anyone give me any help please

 

Bad clutch disc or glazed flywheel. I purchased a 1986 in this shape. Engine ran fine, revved good, idled great, but would not move under it's own power. Cost me $200 for a new clutch disc, plate, to bearing, and used flywheel.

 

And it only starts with a tow

 

Your going to have to be more specific. Only starts with a tow could mean several thing: starter doesn't work or faulty ignition switch broken flywheel ring, or you might mean that the engine turns but never starts....... If it starts with a tow your clutch might be engaging and not slipping and you may just have a bad engine. Or maybe a broken throttle cable. It could be anything. Starts with a tow and doesn't accelerate is a bad description of your problem. Help us help you.

 

Generally, it the car requires a twoor push down a big hill to get started, then we know it's getting spark and fuel. Three things come to mind next: Bad starter, bad battery, or low compression.

1. Swap the battery with one that has lots of juice.
2. The next thing is to have the starter tested.
3. The next would be to do a compression test.

 

Ok I'm going to find out exactly how to describe it

 

Quite frankly,It sounds like your engine is toast.
But you will not know that until you perform a Compression test(look that up via the handy search function).This test will tell you right off the bat if you are fighting a losuing battle.
If the compression is good then you can proceed knowing that your engine is not your problem and that it may lie in fuel delivery.

If you want to do a swap then there are other sections that have info on that(Other engine conversion section).There are many alternatives for that depending on how handy you are and how much you want to go in the hole..I mean spend..lol!

 

I found several vacuum leaks(not on a rotary), faulty fuel pump, and bad injectors. I haven't performed the injectors yet. How do I know they're bad? The fuel pump never primes up and stops just keeps running due to stuck open injector. And then we flood out. If I didn't love the sound and performance of these cars I'd get rid off them. Best of luck!

 

You might want to start your own thread instead of posting in someone else's with your issues.

 

I was simply stating the issues I had found to try and help. J/A

 

Have you had a chance to figure out what the issues are?

 

Car been sitting? Could be as simple as a bad injector, which is VERY common.

But more details are necessary.

Perform a compression test.

 

That's always the nerve racking part. Fingers crossed. So just to clarify...battery is good? Starter good? Fuel? ignition? Are the vacuum lines good? if hard and brittle replace. Most guys will tell you to put it back to stock if already stock, get it running right THEN delete the emissions.

 

Ok i got more info car starts without a tow but if i give it gas slowly car dies if i mass it and hold it revs and its good if i let off it kills

 

Could be a vacuum leak or primary injectors are clogged.

 

Which ones are primary injectors and where the vacum lines located

 

Secondary injectors are the visible ones thus the primaries are the harder ones to access. Vacuum lines are located in different places. Spray carb cleaner while the engine is idling and if there is a vacuum leak then the engine will change in sound. A vacuum leak could come from other things than hoses such as gaskets or the injector grommets.

 

I have a fuel injected 13b dont think i could use carb cleaner

 

you spray the cleaner to find a vacuum leak and nothing more!

 

Where do i spary it directly at

 

Anywhere in the intake and vacuum path. Basically start at the air flow meter and work your way back. All vacuum lines, injector seals, emissions solenoids, everything is a suspect.

Just to be clear, are you familiar with why/what will happen if and when you identify a leak with this method? It doesn't sound like you are, which means you won't even know you've found the leak!

The cliffnotes are you're going to notice a surge in idle speed when the cleaner is ingested into the motor via a leak. Do a quick YouTube search and you'll have a better understanding of what's going on.

 

Ok and once i fix it if there is one i should be able to drive the car

 

IF that was your only issue, sure.

 

Ok its raining bad so once it stops imma get out thete and try that