Runs roush after deflood then dies/wont start
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Runs roush after deflood then dies/wont start
Ok here is the back ground on my 93 fd
Brief History:
Full motor rebuild including Apex seals + mild street port 700 miles ago, Garrett GT-40 rebuild as well 400-500 miles ago
I believe I am the 6th-7th owner from what I understood with the previous owner. I’ve had the car since October 30, 2011 and I bought it in Barstow, CA.
Upgrades:
Freshly rebuilt 13B motor + street port + Atkins Apex Seals
Garrett GT40R Turbo
Exedy Twin Carbon Clutch (500 miles on this, alone it's $1800)
Manual 5 Speed transmission
HALTECH E8 Standalone computer
Tein Type HA Coilovers Springs
Upgraded CJ Motorsports Stage 1 fuel system
Primary Aeromotive 11142 340lph + Secondary Walbro 255LPH
(4) 1600cc Bosch Injectors
CJ Motorsports Dual In-Tank fuel pump assembly
CJ Motorsports Stage 1 fuel system
Power XS radiator
XS Power Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC)
Oil Catch Can
Mishimoto Twin Oil Coolers (one on each side)
Radiator breather tank
Racing Thermostat??(not sure what he meant by that)
Mazda RX7 RX-7 FD3S Enfini 93-95 Short Throw Shifter
New battery relocating cables run from engine bay to behind driver's seat
Ok, I just bought the car and she sometimes wont crank but I am pretty sure its the cheap auto zone battery the guy put in it. I am going to put the Braille in it next payday.
I filled her up with super at the gas station on base and I screwed up...I put in way too much oil in the fuel and now she runs rough after I deflood the car. I have new plugs and wires incoming and am going to put some BG fuel cleaner in the tank and then let the car run for a while and see if that helps. She also cranks up with egi out but doesnt want to crank with it in...not sure why. While she is running rough i cannot give her gas at all otherwise she dies and then I have to deflood her all over again. She is getting fuel, spark and air so I am thinking the spark plugs are just fouling too fast cause of the oil.
Any other tips would be great I have been searching for a week now on the forums and cant find anyone with the same problem(I know there has to be a thread out there however I have not had any luck finding it).
Thank you
Brief History:
Full motor rebuild including Apex seals + mild street port 700 miles ago, Garrett GT-40 rebuild as well 400-500 miles ago
I believe I am the 6th-7th owner from what I understood with the previous owner. I’ve had the car since October 30, 2011 and I bought it in Barstow, CA.
Upgrades:
Freshly rebuilt 13B motor + street port + Atkins Apex Seals
Garrett GT40R Turbo
Exedy Twin Carbon Clutch (500 miles on this, alone it's $1800)
Manual 5 Speed transmission
HALTECH E8 Standalone computer
Tein Type HA Coilovers Springs
Upgraded CJ Motorsports Stage 1 fuel system
Primary Aeromotive 11142 340lph + Secondary Walbro 255LPH
(4) 1600cc Bosch Injectors
CJ Motorsports Dual In-Tank fuel pump assembly
CJ Motorsports Stage 1 fuel system
Power XS radiator
XS Power Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC)
Oil Catch Can
Mishimoto Twin Oil Coolers (one on each side)
Radiator breather tank
Racing Thermostat??(not sure what he meant by that)
Mazda RX7 RX-7 FD3S Enfini 93-95 Short Throw Shifter
New battery relocating cables run from engine bay to behind driver's seat
Ok, I just bought the car and she sometimes wont crank but I am pretty sure its the cheap auto zone battery the guy put in it. I am going to put the Braille in it next payday.
I filled her up with super at the gas station on base and I screwed up...I put in way too much oil in the fuel and now she runs rough after I deflood the car. I have new plugs and wires incoming and am going to put some BG fuel cleaner in the tank and then let the car run for a while and see if that helps. She also cranks up with egi out but doesnt want to crank with it in...not sure why. While she is running rough i cannot give her gas at all otherwise she dies and then I have to deflood her all over again. She is getting fuel, spark and air so I am thinking the spark plugs are just fouling too fast cause of the oil.
Any other tips would be great I have been searching for a week now on the forums and cant find anyone with the same problem(I know there has to be a thread out there however I have not had any luck finding it).
Thank you
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Doh! You are right, sorry I meant to add that but forgot.
I did 2oz per 4 gallons it is pennzoil 2 stroke, I am going to get better stuff I just need to order it. I filled up a little over 3/4 of the tank like this.
I did 2oz per 4 gallons it is pennzoil 2 stroke, I am going to get better stuff I just need to order it. I filled up a little over 3/4 of the tank like this.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update: I got the Spark plugs in today and new wires(crappy brand but cheap just to get the car running now) I put them on(I also put the BG fuel cleaner in) and car wouldnt start....The battery is a complete piece of crap lol. Brand new so I am going to try and take it back to auto zone or wherever the guy purchased it from and try to get a better one while i wait to buy the Braille.
After I jumped the car she started right up and smoked a bit out the back but after letting her warmup then driving her it went away.
Next on my list is the oil pan gasket, exhaust gasket, oil filler tube and the radiator filler (aluminum), put a stereo in then get her a proper tune.
After I jumped the car she started right up and smoked a bit out the back but after letting her warmup then driving her it went away.
Next on my list is the oil pan gasket, exhaust gasket, oil filler tube and the radiator filler (aluminum), put a stereo in then get her a proper tune.
#6
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
*Racing t-stat usually means a 160 F. version or thereabouts. Too cool for a streeted car. Personally I'd replace with OEM.
*I would NOT use an oil pan gasket. I have no idea why Mazda even offered one. I don't know anyone with any experience that would use one. I strongly recommend a quality gasket maker like "The Right Stuff" or "Hondabond". Re-sealing the pan with the engine in the car is possible but a PITA. So if you go to the trouble to do it, I also recommend an oil pan brace. FD3s Oil Pan Brace
You might also want to do a search or check the FAQs in the 3rd Gen. section for how to do that job.
*I would NOT use an oil pan gasket. I have no idea why Mazda even offered one. I don't know anyone with any experience that would use one. I strongly recommend a quality gasket maker like "The Right Stuff" or "Hondabond". Re-sealing the pan with the engine in the car is possible but a PITA. So if you go to the trouble to do it, I also recommend an oil pan brace. FD3s Oil Pan Brace
You might also want to do a search or check the FAQs in the 3rd Gen. section for how to do that job.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
*Racing t-stat usually means a 160 F. version or thereabouts. Too cool for a streeted car. Personally I'd replace with OEM.
*I would NOT use an oil pan gasket. I have no idea why Mazda even offered one. I don't know anyone with any experience that would use one. I strongly recommend a quality gasket maker like "The Right Stuff" or "Hondabond". Re-sealing the pan with the engine in the car is possible but a PITA. So if you go to the trouble to do it, I also recommend an oil pan brace. FD3s Oil Pan Brace
You might also want to do a search or check the FAQs in the 3rd Gen. section for how to do that job.
*I would NOT use an oil pan gasket. I have no idea why Mazda even offered one. I don't know anyone with any experience that would use one. I strongly recommend a quality gasket maker like "The Right Stuff" or "Hondabond". Re-sealing the pan with the engine in the car is possible but a PITA. So if you go to the trouble to do it, I also recommend an oil pan brace. FD3s Oil Pan Brace
You might also want to do a search or check the FAQs in the 3rd Gen. section for how to do that job.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
sherff
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
9
02-24-19 12:09 PM
CaptainKRM
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
14
08-26-15 09:52 PM
zuesskroph
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
0
08-13-15 06:05 PM