I have been running premix in my series 2 for years now, removed the oil metering pump when I got the engine rebuilt.

I just use 2 stroke oil, not specific brand and use 100ml per 10 litres of fuel I put in my car. Usually pour it in before I put the petrol in so it gets stirred up.

 

if this helps my s5 fc3s has no OMP and i'm running 100:1 ratio for standard day driving. thats 1oz per 1 gallon. but if i'm racing i run 200:1 ratio. Or 8oz a full tank.

some brands i use

Klotz R50 ($70 a gallon)
Maxima Smokeless formula ( 40 a Half Gallon)

be expecting to be spending alot more money for fuel! make sure its what you really wanna do cuz it is a hassle but is also worth it in my opinion. also my motor isn't stock but from all the research i've seen its all about the 100:1 ratio. hope that helps!

 

I'm in this boat, and it has been both awesome and stressful. The coolant seals blew when my thermostat got stuck closed and I didn't notice. I drove it for several months like that, which was kinda cool looking back (rotary just keep on going). I could of kept driving it longer too if I really needed to, it wasn't overheating, just losing coolant.

Then luckily I got into contact with forum user RW7 who rebuilt and ported my engine. He was cool enough to let me hang around and help with what I could and so I learned alot from that. Now it's 12k miles strong.

Other stuff I had to fix:
thermostat (obviously)
replaced non replaceable u joints.
replaced oil cooler lines (actually rw7 helped me alot with that)
replaced fuel pump
replaced fuel injectors
not to mention alot of small stuff

It's a tough car to live with as a daily driver (expecially being a not very welled sealed convertible in the very rainy state of OR), but I love it.

It's really only left me stranded twice (t stat and oil cooler lines)


...Well technically I drove a 99 saturn sc2 first, but I didn't own that.

 

I still having my OMP, but I add a splash of 2 stroke as a precaution (about 3-4 oz). I run about 8oz too if I'm autocrossing though.

Why do people take off a working OMP? simplification? weight savings? I don't really get it.

 

mostly becasue they leak like a siv at least mine did.

 

Can you elaborate more on how you are running an S5 with NO OMP without going into Limp Mode?
You say you engine is not stock..so is the Ecu not stock too?

 

i'm running microtech lt-8 stand alone ecu and hand set

 

good to know info

 

oh my God, DO NOT substitute premix with injection cleaner

 

didnt think cars needed premix

 

[QUOTE=livevil904....Why do people take off a working OMP? simplification? weight savings? I don't really get it.[/QUOTE]

a main reason is the benefit from 100% synthetic oil in the crankcase.
for those of you not aware, MAZDA's RX7 owner's manuals instruct for the use of mineral oil only.

 

I use inexpensive Walmart brand 2-stroke @ 1 oz/gal along w/the OMP.
My S4 TII (~325 rwhp) now has ~400 mile since rebuilt.
Only the slightest trace of exhaust smoke under heavy load.
Working smog pump, no cats.
Spark plugs are perfect.

 

Many have been running full synthetic oil in the crank case with a working OMP for years with no issues. Dogs still chase cats, the sky didn't fall and Lindsay Lohan is still a drunk. There are good reasons to support either side, but MAZDA's recommendation isn't one of them.

 

same here. scrutineers at the races hate oil not on the inside of your engine.

also, it's cool adding oil with your fuel at the gas station, smells tough & less visible smoke if you use the right stuff.

 

whats the best oil for a turbo 2

 

More important than what brand or type of oil is using the proper viscosity for your climate, changing it regularly, and at closer intervals than what you might be used to with a piston engine. Most rotarys have fuel dilution to some degree. And the design of the engine just tends toward a higher rate of oil contamination.
Search in the 2nd Gen. section using terms like synthetic, oil type etc. and read opinions to decide for yourself.
This forum is a library of experiences and knowledge. But learning to search is the only way to tap into it.

 

I have been reading up on premix. I was looking at the Mazdatrix website for the popular recommendation Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube.

There is a big Note! Do NOT use with ethanol or ethanol based fuels!

I usually have no choice except E10 gas. Any comments on that?

I have been considering using 4 oz per tank with a working OMP.. Reading that I am now wondering. I have never had any issues with just the OMP in my 30 years of RX-7 ownership.

 

Do you guys know a good DIY for removing the OMP and going premix ?

Thanks

 

Indemitsu is one of those "magical rotary oils". I'm not aware of any reliable data that supports a cost of over $6.00 per quart...plus shipping. Marketing hype and crazy IMO. Especially since as you said, it's really hard to escape fuels with at least some ethanol. Just get any ashless 2 cycle.
From your profile you have an FD, so you'll first need a standalone ECU. You can't delete the OMP...at least not properly, with the stock or reflashed ECU. Doing so will put you into limp mode. If you're not having issues with it, why do you want to delete it?

 

Thanks. I picked up some Quicksilver Premium Synthetic Blend. I will give 4 oz a try next fill-up. I just didn't want to create a problem when I don't have one.

 

Bought my first RX7 new in 81. Unfortunately it hasn't been continuous ownership, there was a marriage, two houses and two kids in between that FB and my FD. But I'm still proud to be able to go back that far. Feel like a pioneer in a way, discovering these cars before they were widely understood or appreciated.

 

Thank you for replying sgt,
I currently have a Apexi Power FC. I don't have any problems with my lubrification system, yet. I wanted to do the premix modification for the safety of my engine. I want to keep it in a good shape for a long time.

Is it worth it or i'm just giving myself a bad time ?

 

I think so.....from earlier in this thread:
My car is primarily street driven with emissions removed, bolt-ons, stock ignition, stock fuel, stock plugs and near stock boost levels. I also run a very simple AI system that helps with cooling, reduces knock and controls carbon.

 

Ummm, How does 1oz of premix to 1gal of gas = 100:1?!?!?! 1gal = 128oz, you are NOT mixing 100:1. 200:1 for racing?!?! Sooo...you premix LESS when putting MORE strain on your engine....hmmmm....don't make any sense. Rotary Tech Tips: Oil Filters & Metering Oil Pump

Also hows the R50 treatin' ya? I was using Blendzall Racing Castor (only cost $40 for 1gal)...bad idea, now my apex seals are stuck solid w/castor gum/varnish/carbon...

 

^^