hey, I am new to these forums and this is the first rotary ive owned. its a 1990 TII i bought a few weeks ago. anyways today it was driving along like the usual and it suddenly stalls while I was coming up to a red light. I turn the car back on and it cranks and starts just fine, but the CEL is on. As the light turns green I accelerate but when I was at 2500 RPM in 2nd gear and give it some gas, the engine hesitates and cuts out and backfires repeatedly and it wont let me rev past 2500....however, if i press really slowly on the gas it will allow me to pass 2500 RPM without any problems. I pull over, turn off the car for a minute and turn it back on and the CEL is gone, and the hesitation/engine cutting in and out/backfires are all gone when i go WOT in any gear any speed...

any ideas what that was or what causes it? any help would be appreciated thanks

 

Pull the codes to determine why the CEL is on. But I'm betting it will be showing a code for either the TPS or metering oil pump. Or both.

Instructions to pull codes are in the 2nd gen FAQ.

 

Code checking info here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...55#post5131155

 

i checked the engine codes, theres a bunch... the TPS one did come up though. i tried adjusting the TPS voltage and resistance and it didnt fix the problem...it only starts doing the engine cutting in/out after about 10-15 mins of driving...the CEL will come on and then ill have throttle trouble...if i pull over and turn off the car then turn it back on, all problems go away for another 10-15 mins or so...

 

oh i just had this same exact problem. if anything i bet you its your injectors. once i replaced mine everything was fixed

 

i dunno if it would be my injectors...this problem only started happening after I adjusted my TPS to the 1k omhs idle and 5k omhs at WOT. could it be something to do with that?

 

Perhaps you might list the codes you did get or perhaps you might not. If you want people on this forum for assistance, you need to share the pertinent information with them rather than keeping it a secret.

 

Hey guys, I'm still new to rotarys and I've only had my TII for about a month now...still having trouble with it and this is one of them.

After driving for about 10 minutes without any troubles, the CEL will suddenly come on and when I press firmly on the gas pedal, it feels like I hit a brick wall and the car wont rev...the RPM's stay constant but I hear a backfiring sort of noise.

Its a little hard to describe, but it only happens when I press hard on the gas to open the throttle...also, it only happens in gear...with the clutch in, or in neutral, it revs all the way to redline just fine. If i turn the car off and turn it back on, the CEL goes off and I can drive like normal again...15 minutes later, the CEL will be back on and I will experience the same revving problem again...anyone know what could be wrong?

I have 2 videos of what happens to the RPM and what sound im hearing...keep in mind, the whole time the video is recording, I have my foot held on the gas pedal, and I did not let go of it until I stopped recording...any help please? Thanks...

 

Merged this into your old thread to keep the history of the various problems

 

Sorry, i had forgotten I already made a thread about this hahah...thanks for merging.

i did pull the CEL codes, they are TPS, OMP, and AWS according to the chart...

anyways, here is a video of what I'm talking about...the whole time i never lift off the gas, but it doesnt rev past 2800-3000 rpm...and it will keep backfiring and sputter...

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t=IMG_0300.mp4

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t=IMG_0301.mp4

the CEL only comes on about 10-15 minutes after I begin driving...once its on, it gives me this problem. If i turn the car off and turn it on again, the CEL is off and I can drive normally...but after 10-15 minutes, it repeats... any suggestions? im totally stumped...

to add to the problem, i just noticed a possible coolant leak...hahah though i dont think that could be related to my other problem...

 

The answer my friend is blowing in the wind as the OMP code is probably indicating that the car is going into a "protective mode to prevent any damage to the engine caused by a failing OMP" and it will behave okay briefly after starting but reverts to a "safe mode," and prevents the car from operating at high rpm levels which inevitably would cause engine damage when there is little to no oil being injected into the housings. If so, then the OMP nees to be replaced and possibly the ECU as well.

 

alright, ill try looking into the OMP and checking if its failing. thanks for the information! this ongoing problem is really making me depressed hahah

 

turns out the OMP was fine...any other suggestions as to what might be causing this problem?

 

There are different codes for the OMP, specifically which one did you have? And how did you conclude the OMP was fine? And what was the "specific" code for the TPS as there are couple of them for an S5 (#12 or #18)? The Green/Red wire of the TPS should read 1 volt after the engine has been warmed up "completely." (completely means after a 20 or so minute drive) What does yours read?

 

Here are a list of codes I have... the car does have a block off plate...i think its a Air Control Valve blockoff? Its right below the BAC... I didnt reset my ECU, pulled these codes as of 15 minutes ago...

12 Throttle Sensor (TPS) Full Range - Fixed at 20% open
18 Throttle Sensor (TPS) Narrow Range - Fixed at full-open
25 Solenoid, Pressure Regulator Control
27 MOP (General) - Basic Fuel Injection and fixed timing
30 Solenoid, Split Air Valve
31 Solenoid, Relief Valve
32 Solenoid, Switch Valve
33 Solenoid, Port Air Valve
42 Solenoid Valve (Turbo Boost Pressure Pre-Control)

TPS Voltage after driving fully warmed up was 0.98v for the green/red wire. OMP was not leaking, I guess I couldnt really conclude anything from looking at it visually. whats the difference between the OMP error codes? what about the 2 TPS codes? Any help is appreciated, thanks!

 

When an S5 goes into limp mode it is due to an electrical fault as opposed to it leaking and so on.

 

yeah, finally got around to fully testing the OMP following the instructions on the FSM...got 0.00v from the OMP to the ECU. Thanks for your help, hopefully this solves the problem... Im gonna completely remove it, use a block off plate, change to Rtek 1.5 chip and use premix. Hopefully thats more reliable, not to mention it hopefully saves whats left of my now possibly ruined rotor housings haha