ok, while im still getting the 7 ready for a summer of fun. im planning my first performance modification, and would like to install a Racing Beat Pre-silencer and cat delete, along with the RB cat back. Here is were i am confused. i own a 87 N/A Rx7, i was planning on removing the airpump, P/S, and A/C stuff aswell....lets face it the car's really dont need power stearing and my pump is leaking somthing feirce! my question is: with this new Exhaust im worried about my 5th and 6th ports not working,i know to remove the airpump i need a block off plate, and a dubble belt alt pully to prevent slippage...basicly i wanna know if my air pump opends the ports or not...some say that it dose, others say it helps from burning up the cats by flowing air to them below 3800 RPM. just want to make sure befor i go and start ripping stuff off, if i should keep the airpump and stuff no biggie. just want to mod my car right. the first time. lol thanks guys

 

Only S5 NAs use the air pump for the aux. ports. You can remove it without consequence. Make sure you get presilencer designed for '86-'88 (S4) NAs as well, so your ports will have a chance at opening. The S4 NA presilencer has a pick up for the split air pipe, which is what will provide pressure to open the ports.

 

ok sweet, i was going to get the 86-88 presilencer...it made sence that way lol. and i am correct in getting a dubble belt alt pully to avoid belt slip? or is that a myth?...and on a side note. can i just not use the power steering belt for a week or so to see if i like no P/S befor i start putting bolts in my rack to delete it? i might end up trying to replace the pump if i dont like it. just wanted to make sure that wouldnt mess somthing up thanks

 

Yes, you need to use a double alternator pulley if you remove the air pump. The water pump pulley will slip without the second belt contacting the right side. Double pulleys give you back some of that contact. Also, they give you insurance if one of the alternator belts ever breaks, you have a second one rather than an overheated engine.

For the P/S, I've heard removing the belt will simulate a de-powered rack. Haven't tried it myself.

 

how much back pressure is needed? can u get by with just one hi flow cat and straight pipe with silenced free flow mufflers be enough pressure? and can i use a precat and move my split air pipe b4 it so it gets pressure?

 

The actuators require 2.1psi to fully open (http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/intakeair.shtml). It's hard to say what setup will work, and what will not. More restriction will definitely mean a better chance however. The activation method sucks, which is why when I had an NA engine, I rigged my actuators to work off of the air pump (like an S5 NA).

 

i feel a boost around 4000 i asume at the moment there opening. is it possible to push the actuator down while idling in park? what i believe is the actuator make it idle ruff.

 

You should be able to push the actuator down at idle. It won't change the idle very much.

 

is it one actuator and is located right above the exhaust manifold (a black color?)

 

The Factory Service Manual can be found in the FAQ For FC thread. It contains all this information and more, and is an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.

Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.

These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download.

 

The actuators are plated steel diaphragms (a gold color).