The plan: Maximum power on minimum parts. What's REALLY necessary? (1994 RX7)
03-07-16, 09:14 PM
#26
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Why?
Look. You have a turbo car and want to run boost that is 50% above stock levels. Keeping the stock piece of crap ic for the sake of keeping the engine bay stock looking is completely illogical and really confuses me. You don't have to get the big m2. There are smaller stock looking alternatives.
I'd rather see you pass on the water injection and get a decent ic. But both is better.
I am having trouble understanding your logic. Don't half *** it for no good reason. I gave you really sound advice. Start ordering. The biggest challenge will be finding a good tuner.
Look. You have a turbo car and want to run boost that is 50% above stock levels. Keeping the stock piece of crap ic for the sake of keeping the engine bay stock looking is completely illogical and really confuses me. You don't have to get the big m2. There are smaller stock looking alternatives.
I'd rather see you pass on the water injection and get a decent ic. But both is better.
I am having trouble understanding your logic. Don't half *** it for no good reason. I gave you really sound advice. Start ordering. The biggest challenge will be finding a good tuner.
03-07-16, 10:47 PM
#27
1994 RX7
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Because I like the way it looks and I like the way I FEEL about how it looks when I open the hood, is that ok with you lol?
Probably true in my part of the world. I'd prefer to tune it myself.
Probably true in my part of the world. I'd prefer to tune it myself.
03-07-16, 10:52 PM
#28
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03-07-16, 11:13 PM
#29
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Another way to approach this is to think about how much power you can get out of stock injectors. (kinda where I ended up)
Focus on reliability along with power.
You will quickly overheat if you use more horsepower (ie over 300hp)
A few things to start with:
Larger all aluminum radiator. This will look completely stock.
Better fuel pump, as noted above. Pretty much required for added horsepower. Invisible.
Power FC. Lets you tune and optimize to what parts you have.
Downpipe. Adds horsepower, decreases heat under the hood, nearly invisible. (you may already have this)
Then look at extras like upgraded turbos, intercooler, airbox, and air plumbing.
Some SMIC and intercooler packages look pretty nice and tidy.
Welcome to the adventure!
BTW: a stock turbo in a stock car does not have a good record of making it to 100k.
Focus on reliability along with power.
You will quickly overheat if you use more horsepower (ie over 300hp)
A few things to start with:
Larger all aluminum radiator. This will look completely stock.
Better fuel pump, as noted above. Pretty much required for added horsepower. Invisible.
Power FC. Lets you tune and optimize to what parts you have.
Downpipe. Adds horsepower, decreases heat under the hood, nearly invisible. (you may already have this)
Then look at extras like upgraded turbos, intercooler, airbox, and air plumbing.
Some SMIC and intercooler packages look pretty nice and tidy.
Welcome to the adventure!
BTW: a stock turbo in a stock car does not have a good record of making it to 100k.
03-08-16, 12:07 AM
#30
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Seems like this is what you want to hear, get a PowerFC and leave everything else as it is. Turn the boost up to 14psi and tune it yourself. If it blows up, get a stock rebuild and turn boost down 1psi and problem solved. Brilliant! Also only ever boost on the highway thanks to your toothpick intercooler.
03-08-16, 12:04 PM
#31
A lot of good recommendations here.
If your goals are to squeeze out some more HP for tooling around town, you don't need to go hog wild on mods. For stockish look, you could go with a stockish SMIC (Blitz/Greddy etc) that retain the battery and intake. If you keep the stock IC, just make sure you monitor IACs.
Also as pointed out in post 9, delete the crossover connection from the IC duct to the intake and make a dedicated feed for the intake (cheap bastard). For stock look you can bolt back the interconnector, but it wouldn't be functional (just make sure you plug the hole in the IC duct).
As for the turbos, you can overboost them but it "may" decrease their lifespan. This would be okay if you were thinking of upgrading to something like BNRs or '99s, basically ride out the life of the stockers as long as possible (only problem with that is future availability of upgraded stock turbos). That said, don't expect much over 300 HP of the stock twins. As for HP goals, is the number important, or how it drives? Personally I think people chase numbers just for the sake of chasing numbers.
I don't have a lot of experience with fuel upgrades, but a Supra pump and upgraded secondaries seem tried and true. You should also replace/delete your FPD if it's original.
Others have comment on cooling. Again, you may be okay stock if you are only doing short spirited driving, but like the IACs, make sure you monitor your engine temps. Worthwhile stock upgrades are an AL radiator and R1 passenger-side oil cooler.
The bottom line thing to keep in mind is that rebuilding the engine is an expensive PITA.
If your goals are to squeeze out some more HP for tooling around town, you don't need to go hog wild on mods. For stockish look, you could go with a stockish SMIC (Blitz/Greddy etc) that retain the battery and intake. If you keep the stock IC, just make sure you monitor IACs.
Also as pointed out in post 9, delete the crossover connection from the IC duct to the intake and make a dedicated feed for the intake (cheap bastard). For stock look you can bolt back the interconnector, but it wouldn't be functional (just make sure you plug the hole in the IC duct).
As for the turbos, you can overboost them but it "may" decrease their lifespan. This would be okay if you were thinking of upgrading to something like BNRs or '99s, basically ride out the life of the stockers as long as possible (only problem with that is future availability of upgraded stock turbos). That said, don't expect much over 300 HP of the stock twins. As for HP goals, is the number important, or how it drives? Personally I think people chase numbers just for the sake of chasing numbers.
I don't have a lot of experience with fuel upgrades, but a Supra pump and upgraded secondaries seem tried and true. You should also replace/delete your FPD if it's original.
Others have comment on cooling. Again, you may be okay stock if you are only doing short spirited driving, but like the IACs, make sure you monitor your engine temps. Worthwhile stock upgrades are an AL radiator and R1 passenger-side oil cooler.
The bottom line thing to keep in mind is that rebuilding the engine is an expensive PITA.
Last edited by TomU; 03-08-16 at 12:07 PM.
03-09-16, 03:53 PM
#32
OP...you can accept the suggestions in this thread...or not. Just don't forget we have this 3rd Generation RX-7 (1993-2002) Parts - RX7Club.com
Last edited by Sgtblue; 03-09-16 at 03:56 PM.
03-13-16, 11:12 AM
#33
Engine, Not Motor
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Ok so I think the plan is I'm going to add nothing more than the water injection system and the Power FC and get it on a dyno and simply raise the boost until it either runs out of fuel, runs out of turbo (won't hold boost until redline) or stops making more power even with more boost.
This is really the only way to know for sure how far the stock parts will go.
I'm 100% certain somebody else has done this before in the 23 years this car's been produced but for some reason this knowledge just doesn't seem to be out there or I'm not looking in the right places.
This is really the only way to know for sure how far the stock parts will go.
I'm 100% certain somebody else has done this before in the 23 years this car's been produced but for some reason this knowledge just doesn't seem to be out there or I'm not looking in the right places.
This thread has basically told you what you need to do. I don't understand why you don't consider that advice.
After 23 years, we know how to make reliable basic upgrades on a car.