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oil filter wrench

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Old 11-16-11, 07:12 PM
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AZ oil filter wrench

Finally used up my supply of oil filters. purchaced new filters and was surprized to find dealer had them on hand, typically dealer had to order for me. So I asked and counter man said filters was consolidated with rx-8 filters. Well tonight went to use one of the new filters and yes it screws down fine however the old filter wrench I used to remove the old filter no longer fits the new one, it is a touch too small. The wrench I use fits over the top of the filter, can't seem to find a new one to fit this new size. Am looking for recommendation on preferably to find the correct new top wrench cap. I really hate to resort to poking a screwdriver in the filter to remove and I also like to snug the filter more than hand tight. If this requires a specialty tool from Mazda I will be aggrevated.

On a side note when was the number of posts jumped to 20 for opening a new thread, I had prevously started a new thread and now I cannot. I do not understand this requirement especially as a member since 2004.
Old 11-16-11, 10:03 PM
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Many of the RX7 filters are the same as the Miata and maybe even the RX8 as you may have found.

Most of us order our OEM parts from Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda (see 3rd gen FAQ under Parts) fyi. I'd take the filter over to your local auto parts store and find one that fits.

Don't have a better answer than that.

Regarding post counts, check the Rules threads stickied in this forum. The software doesn't distinguish between your join date and your post count.
Old 11-16-11, 11:58 PM
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I like this kind:


I thought this kind would work too, but it doesn't grip the filter well enough:
Old 11-17-11, 12:10 AM
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Hand tight is more than enough, you don't want to damage that gasket! The only filter wrench you should ever need to use is your dominant hand, if you have to use crazy leverage it means someone applied it with a lot of fail.
Old 11-17-11, 06:42 AM
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Granted some do hand tighten and leave it at that but I have always seated it a bit past hand tight with the use of a filter wrench to seat the gasket. Been time tested method for me as have done it this way for over 40 years. The more important use of the wrench is removing the filter.

I did try the local autoparts stores, none fit over the top. Guess I will look for a small strap wrench since as the space for any side strap wrench is limited with filter being in the original location on my 3rd gen. I have never seen the type as mentioned by Evil Aviator, the one that fit previously was similar in the way it fit over the top of filter and allowed for a 3/8" socket, being my preferance.

I did look at the post rules after seeing I could not post in the section I wanted to and it is obvious that the join date is not considered, just commenting that they changed the rules along the way, my bad for not having posted more over the years.
Old 11-17-11, 06:48 AM
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I don't know what size filter you were given, but they are pretty much standardized. I hand-tighten but usually have to go to a filter socket on a 3/8 extension to get it off. Mostly because I can't squirrel my fat hand and arm in there to turn it. I use the cast aluminum versions as opposed to the stamped steel sockets. The cast ones don't seem to flex and slip.
IMO, no need to go to the dealer. I get these... http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/...RX-7&year=1993 (PureOne)
Great gasket, excellent filter media, antidrain-back valve and you can get them at most autoparts stores. And my socket fits just fine.
Old 11-17-11, 08:37 AM
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On my TII I have always been using those K&N filters with the 1" nut welded on them. It makes removal fairly easy with a socket and rachet.
On my GS I usually just use the Fram filters with the black grip coating on the end. It makes taking them fairly easy to remove by hand. I usually only go hand tight as I can. Mine have never failed in over 10 years of both 7's.
Old 11-17-11, 12:55 PM
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Thought size was standard also till this new batch I got from Mazda Dealer, it was a new part number an just a touch bigger than old filters so no standard wrench will fit over the ends. I ran out at lunch and brought the filter with me. Found the ones Evil was showing but took it out of the package and could not get them to grip. Found a stap wrench that will allow a socket from the top will try tonight. If I did not have a dozen of the Mazda filters on hand would switch over to another brand and would be back in buziness with my old wrench or using the filter with nut on top. I just think these new ones are true metric hence the issue last night. Have a run with the RCCAZ club this Sunday so was preping the car, glad I did not wait until the night before.
Old 11-17-11, 04:47 PM
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In case someone has to order on-line a 67mm oil wrench fits the new filters. Found only one in the parts stores out here and it was the last one. Problem gone.
Old 11-17-11, 05:42 PM
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I thought that the 8 filter was pretty much standard size?
I had no trouble walking into a part store and finding one that fit.
Old 11-17-11, 09:19 PM
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I found a CAP that fits over the filter that you can put a socket wrench on,and it does it perfect every time.
The Problem that most people encounter is when they put the filter on and give it that "one more little 1/8 turn" to get the filter tight.The thing is,that when the filter gets warm the whole thing expands and it Sits it in there Super tight and makes it hard to get off when you have to do an oil change.
IF You can't put a set of slip pliers on to get the filter off,then Stab it with a Screwdriver and use that to turn the whole assembly to get it off.
Old 11-17-11, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by stever
Found the ones Evil was showing but took it out of the package and could not get them to grip.
I should have mentioned that it needs to have somewhat sharp corners to slightly cut into the filter body. The rounded-off ones don't grip. Those new RX-8 filters are a little slippery, but the wrench works if I squeeze the cam together a bit with my off hand. Anyway, the cap-type wrench that you bought should work just fine.

Also, the new RX-8 filters are rather pricey, so I think I am going to use aftermarket filters from now on.

Originally Posted by wotnartd
Hand tight is more than enough, you don't want to damage that gasket! The only filter wrench you should ever need to use is your dominant hand, if you have to use crazy leverage it means someone applied it with a lot of fail.
The wrench is to get the filter off, not to put it on. I always put filters on hand-tight, and I have never been able to get one off with my bare hands. If I put it on much looser it will leak... ask me how I know.
Old 11-18-11, 12:21 AM
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i use grip tape on all my filters. you can buy the stuff at lowes and i put it on before i install the filter, gives me MORE THAN ENOUGH grip to get it on and off by hand without a wrench!
Old 11-18-11, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by -defi-
i use grip tape on all my filters. you can buy the stuff at lowes and i put it on before i install the filter, gives me MORE THAN ENOUGH grip to get it on and off by hand without a wrench!
Purolator PureONE filters already have a version of that painted on the filter body.
Old 11-22-11, 11:50 AM
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I've never had issues with the seal, if i hand tighten it. but if removal is an issue I use the pennzoil plier type oil filter wrench.
Old 10-02-13, 04:38 PM
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Great thread guys! I am actually about to do my first oil change on my new FD and was wondering if I had to go out and buy a new filter wrench. After reading this thread I think I will just man up and hand crank the filter on....assuming I can get the old one off first ;-)
Old 10-03-13, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by kraneous
After reading this thread I think I will just man up and hand crank the filter on....assuming I can get the old one off first ;-)
If you have trouble taking it off, make sure you're hands are clean and dry and wrap the old filter in duct tape. That should make it a lot easier to get off. Just put the new one on hand tight without duct tape though. Also, don't forget to lubricate the sealing ring of the new filter with a little fresh oil before you put it on.
Old 10-03-13, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kraneous
I think I will just man up and hand crank the filter on
The wrench is for taking the filter OFF. Never use a tool to crank the filter ON. Put a thin coat of oil on the seal of the new filter and hand-tighten it on.
Old 10-03-13, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by kraneous
Great thread guys! I am actually about to do my first oil change on my new FD and was wondering if I had to go out and buy a new filter wrench. After reading this thread I think I will just man up and hand crank the filter on....assuming I can get the old one off first ;-)
Manly Yes! but we like it tooo!...

Yep,manly job to get the oil filter off..but get MOM to lift the trans into place when doing a clutch change!....(ahhahahahahahhahahahaha!..just kidding man..!!)

Note: I still like stabbing the filter if it doesn't come off(if the wrench fails)..there is just something barbaric and revengeful about getting BACK at the engine for 'doing that'..!
Old 10-03-13, 09:17 PM
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just a tad of anti seize on the o ring in stead of oil keeps it from sticking ,, when you think about it even the what 1/2 to 3/4 turn after contact is lots if you take into consideration how great the thread pitch is on the filters . close to 1/8 of an inch after contact pretty much squashes it flatty . shitty set up sometimes over tightening is worse than under because the seal is not contained proper on all sides like high pressure hydraulic applications where the seal is contained in a perfect fitting groove only protruding a few thou. and has no where to go , unlike on an oil filter so the seal gets wider and distorts when squashed . and sticks like poo on a sheet .


There use to be a FRANZ filters , which were an after market canister filter that used a roll of ******* paper contained between two screens for a filter element . A real piece of **** but the nicest polished aluminum housing and canister ever and never leaked a drop . I know nobody gives a **** . Have a good one

Last edited by gerald m; 10-03-13 at 09:32 PM.
Old 10-04-13, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by gerald m
.... There use to be a FRANZ filters , which were an after market canister filter that used a roll of ******* paper contained between two screens for a filter element ....
Not a new idea. They were using those back in the 40's and early 50's. And you're right, they weren't too efficient but never leaked...until you pulled the element out. Equal parts of contaminants/debris as were stopped thru the fliter element simply settled in the bottom of the canister between changes. You had to clean out the sludge in the botton each time. The industry was learning though. This was in the day of single viscosity oil and some were still being used without detergents. And an oil filter was a dealer added option.
Old 10-04-13, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by gerald m


There use to be a FRANZ filters , which were an after market canister filter that used a roll of ******* paper contained between two screens for a filter element . A real piece of **** but the nicest polished aluminum housing and canister ever and never leaked a drop . I know nobody gives a **** . Have a good one
Ya,but now they have the Charmin "freshy,fresh"..(moisturized *** wipes!) so no more Debris..lol!

... just used one Gerald and wiped half your quote..hahahaha!
Old 10-04-13, 08:22 AM
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Hey sorry to thread Jack but is a tg6607 fram filter ok on a s5 na? The filter on the car now look alot bigger... is it just the brand of filter or did I get the wrong size?
Old 10-04-13, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
Not a new idea. They were using those back in the 40's and early 50's. And you're right, they weren't too efficient but never leaked...until you pulled the element out. Equal parts of contaminants/debris as were stopped thru the fliter element simply settled in the bottom of the canister between changes. You had to clean out the sludge in the botton each time. The industry was learning though. This was in the day of single viscosity oil and some were still being used without detergents. And an oil filter was a dealer added option.
Yea for sure not suggesting anyone should ever use one now . seems to me they never had a drain for the canister either . needed to scrape all the sediment from the bottom and then wipe them out pretty much had to take them off to do a good job .

Actually Mister it was a roll of king size Delsey that fit the best . I still remember the old timers in the Chinese cafe teasing old Lester Thode , he wiped his *** with a catalog and bought the best toilet paper money could buy for his tractors.
Old 10-04-13, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
Not a new idea. They were using those back in the 40's and early 50's. And you're right, they weren't too efficient but never leaked...until you pulled the element out. Equal parts of contaminants/debris as were stopped thru the fliter element simply settled in the bottom of the canister between changes. You had to clean out the sludge in the botton each time. The industry was learning though. This was in the day of single viscosity oil and some were still being used without detergents. And an oil filter was a dealer added option.
Yea for sure not suggesting anyone should ever use one now . seems to me they never had a drain for the canister either . needed to scrape all the sediment from the bottom and then wipe them out pretty much had to take them off to do a good job .

Actually Mister it was a roll of king size Delsey that fit the best . I still remember the old timers in the Chinese cafe teasing old Lester Thode , he wiped his *** with a catalog and bought the best toilet paper money could buy for his tractors. I guess things haven't changed much we treat our vehicles better than ourselves .


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