Pocketbikespike

iTrader: (1)

ok so i bought an 1988 turbo 2, it actually started up and ran perfectly fine, then i was working on it, making the engine back a little cleaner and i accidently grounded out a positive cable for a half a second, it blew my main fuse(which i replaced already) and now i dont have spark from my leading coil pack. trailing is fine i get spark on both wires. i checked the power to the leading coil pack and i have power on the black wire with a possible white stripe and thats fine, but the other wire i think green, has no power coming from it, the trailing has power from both wires. at this point ive spent about 13 hours reading other peoples threads and cannot find what im looking for. any help???

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Be sure that the leading coil pack is completely bolted down. That is how it is grounded. If you've recently removed it and painted the engine bay or cleaned the engine bay, you may not have completely bolted it down all of the way. You can always try to use a but sand paper around the threads where you can get good metal on metal contact.

If it isn't a grounding problem, then try another FC's leading coil pack. Whether it be S5, S4, TII or N/A leading coil pack... They're all the same.

Pocketbikespike

iTrader: (1)

good advice, i thought it was wire grounded because theres a black wire in the harness that plugs into the coil, but knowing that. ill make the connection better, and any coil pack works? plug and all or cut and splice? and what about the green wire? shouldnt that have power like the trailing coil pack?

BoneT2&Harmony

Did you try changing the coil over?

Pocketbikespike

iTrader: (1)

Not yet, nobody around me has an fc, do I have to buy new

Walker04950

iTrader: (7)

Junk yard is where I get my parts

Pocketbikespike

iTrader: (1)

I'll check all surrounding junk yards, but I think here in ct chances are slim, does anyone know what the green wire is and what the voltage is in it, if any.

Walker04950

iTrader: (7)

You need a leading coil? I have an extra one 20 bucks and its yours

Pocketbikespike

iTrader: (1)

I'm down, how do I pay you.

Pocketbikespike

iTrader: (1)

So besides trying another coil pack is there any wiring advice? What wires I should have power to and what voltages they should have?l

Walker04950

iTrader: (7)

I'll send u instructions and a wiring diagram with the coil

Pocketbikespike

iTrader: (1)

alright, thanksbro

jasontogts

I had that problem with my fd and It was the ground behind the coils. Make sure its gettin power first.

Pocketbikespike

iTrader: (1)

Waiting for the coil pack, thence testing!!!! But what if it's not the coil? What do I do then??

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Be patient... Take it one step at a time.

Pocketbikespike

iTrader: (1)

Well I've done everything that I've been told, I've tried everything I know and have had the help of some people and yet I still have no spark to either coil and now none of my lights work... What the **** is happening!!!

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Black/Yellow wire at the coils would be the power supply but the Green/Yellow wire is the trigger signal from the ECU. You could test this wire at either the coil or the ECU. If you don't get the proper voltage at the coil then you might want to test at the ECU as well. W/key to on the wire should toggle back and forth from having 5 volts to 0 volts over and over as the engine is turned over by hand by way of rotating the alternator pulley (goal is to get the main pulley to rotate). Can't remember which voltage value appears the longest but one value will last for most of the pulley revolution and then briefly switch to the other value. The relevant ECU pin 1V.

If you had spark to one coil (trailing), but have no spark to neither and the lights (are you talking about the headlights here or other lights) are now out then you want to make sure the Engine fuse box is receiving voltage frrom the battery, and this connection is towards the bottom of the fuse box towards the battery side.

Pocketbikespike

iTrader: (1)

I went through and tested the cas first I had the right intervals with the correct voltage, then I checked the ecu and almost every voltage from the ecu was low or 0, so I got a new ecu and plugged that in, still nothing so I jumped a cable from the battery to the positive in the ecu to make sure I was getting 12v to the ecu and still nothing, so I ran jump wires from the ecu to the coil packs to eliminate the possibility of a bad harness, also wasn't the problem, and just to double check I tested the continuity from the cas plug to the cans wires at the ecu plug, then tested the wires from the coil pack plugs to the coil pack plug and that was fine, so I started to check all my grounds, every one in the engine bay I took off cleaned and respected, I also added a few grounds from the relays to chassis, coil packs to chassis and from ecu to chassis also not the problem, the wiring diagram I have for my car says the black and yellow wires from the coil packs are grounds, and I think as for the lights the indash switch is broken, none of my lights go on or off and the lights don't go up or down, but I just don't know what to do anymore I've literally came at this problem from every direction and just don't know, I have no money left to keep dumping into it...

satch

iTrader: (1)

The igniters ground through the chassis of the car as there are no "exterior" ground wires for the coils. Why not do as suggested? Also, if the ECU were powered up then the Brown wire at the TPS or Boost Sensor would have 5 volts w/key to on. And pin 3I is the wire that powers the ECU ( 12 volts w/key to on). The wire is Black/White and it comes from the Main Relay. And if the Engine fuse box is not powered by the battery then absolutely nothing will work.