New problem with my ongoing project 89 EFI
I've rebuilt the 13 B did a port job and use a header without a cat. Now with about 1500 miles on it, I encountered a new problem of loss of idle at operating temp and hard start or no start if you let it die , must wait for it to cool then it starts fine {until it warms again}. Can this be caused by low oil level? Is there a sensor that can cause this weird problem? I've always built GM small and big blocks and the rotary is a constant learning curve for me with nobody among my drag racing friends who knows anything about the Mighty Wankle
I also want to remove the air pump and need the pully replacement and the engineplate for the ACV hole for now. Any help with expeirence on the hot motor problem or the parts to do the airpump removal is greatly appreciated. THX, Jeff
I also want to remove the air pump and need the pully replacement and the engineplate for the ACV hole for now. Any help with expeirence on the hot motor problem or the parts to do the airpump removal is greatly appreciated. THX, Jeff
A lot of people have hot start issue with their 7s. Usually it can be solved by sending the injectors out to be cleaned & balanced. Did you do this while the engine was torn down?
If you haven't already adjusted the idle, try that first. The variable resistor can adjust idle mixture, and the air bypass screw will allow more air to bypass the throttle plates. The factory manual or a haynes manual can explain in detail for you.
This shouldn't have much to do with the air/fuel mix governed by the start map, but it'll help keep it from dying once the motor reaches operating temp.
If you still have trouble, an option some people choose is wiring a fuel cut switch under the dash. This will make deflooding much easier, but it's not going to fix the root of the problem.
If you haven't already adjusted the idle, try that first. The variable resistor can adjust idle mixture, and the air bypass screw will allow more air to bypass the throttle plates. The factory manual or a haynes manual can explain in detail for you.
This shouldn't have much to do with the air/fuel mix governed by the start map, but it'll help keep it from dying once the motor reaches operating temp.
If you still have trouble, an option some people choose is wiring a fuel cut switch under the dash. This will make deflooding much easier, but it's not going to fix the root of the problem.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
Sep 16, 2018 07:16 PM
The1Sun
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
0
Sep 7, 2015 10:21 PM



