New member - Opinions needed - 10 years without starting
01-09-22, 03:27 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
New member - Opinions needed - 10 years without starting
Hi all, I bought a 1989 RX-7 back in 2009, an FC3S if I'm not mistaken. I drove it for approximately a year and all was completely fine. During that time I had to change the clutch which was pretty straight forward, I did it myself.
Then I had some issues in life, I was a teenager and money was a problem, couldn't afford to drive it so I parked it up in my garage and left it there till now some 12 years.
I now want to get my baby rolling again, but I've heard from some mechanics that I can't just simply replace the battery, oil and fluids, and turn it over, that I should open the engine as it's been stopped for over 10 years and the rotors could scratch the walls. Is this correct? I'm scared to do anything that will hurt it.
I'm really anxious to get my baby running and purring like a cat. Could you please advise of the appropriate steps to take.
Thanks.
Then I had some issues in life, I was a teenager and money was a problem, couldn't afford to drive it so I parked it up in my garage and left it there till now some 12 years.
I now want to get my baby rolling again, but I've heard from some mechanics that I can't just simply replace the battery, oil and fluids, and turn it over, that I should open the engine as it's been stopped for over 10 years and the rotors could scratch the walls. Is this correct? I'm scared to do anything that will hurt it.
I'm really anxious to get my baby running and purring like a cat. Could you please advise of the appropriate steps to take.
Thanks.
Last edited by Sebas_VR46; 01-09-22 at 04:23 PM.
01-09-22, 08:08 PM
#2
Hi Sebas .. welcome to the forum.
Before you hookup a new battery and try to crank the engine, remove the spark plugs and squirt a bit of engine oil into the lower (Leading) spark plug holes.
Use a socket (I think it's 19mm) and a ratchet to rotate the engine (clockwise from the front). Add a bit more oil into the spark plug holes and then repeat. Let the engine sit for 24-hours .. and repeat.
The idea is to try to loosen up any of the seals that are stuck from rust or other crud before you try to start the engine. The oil also helps to seal the engine for better compression since its difficult to start a dry engine with little or no compression.
Once you get consistent "puffs" from the engine as you turn by hand .. then you should be ready to reinstall the spark plugs and hookup your new battery.
Pull the fuse for the fuel pump to ensure the engine won't start and crank the engine a few times to get everything moving nicely. Again .. you can repeat this over a series of days.
When you are ready for your first start, remove your spark plugs and clean them up with some brake cleaner. Reinstall the spark plugs and the fuse for the fuel pump.
Once you get the engine started .. check for leaks or strange sounds. Make sure you are in a well ventilated area (there will be a lot of smoke). Let the engine warm up to normal operating temperature .. shut the engine off and then change all of your fluids, filters and install new spark plugs.
I hope that's a good "start" (no pun intended).
Before you hookup a new battery and try to crank the engine, remove the spark plugs and squirt a bit of engine oil into the lower (Leading) spark plug holes.
Use a socket (I think it's 19mm) and a ratchet to rotate the engine (clockwise from the front). Add a bit more oil into the spark plug holes and then repeat. Let the engine sit for 24-hours .. and repeat.
The idea is to try to loosen up any of the seals that are stuck from rust or other crud before you try to start the engine. The oil also helps to seal the engine for better compression since its difficult to start a dry engine with little or no compression.
Once you get consistent "puffs" from the engine as you turn by hand .. then you should be ready to reinstall the spark plugs and hookup your new battery.
Pull the fuse for the fuel pump to ensure the engine won't start and crank the engine a few times to get everything moving nicely. Again .. you can repeat this over a series of days.
When you are ready for your first start, remove your spark plugs and clean them up with some brake cleaner. Reinstall the spark plugs and the fuse for the fuel pump.
Once you get the engine started .. check for leaks or strange sounds. Make sure you are in a well ventilated area (there will be a lot of smoke). Let the engine warm up to normal operating temperature .. shut the engine off and then change all of your fluids, filters and install new spark plugs.
I hope that's a good "start" (no pun intended).
The following users liked this post:
Sebas_VR46 (01-10-22)
The following users liked this post:
Sebas_VR46 (01-10-22)
01-10-22, 05:57 AM
#4
Thread moved to the new member tech section.
The issue that you will no doubt run into is the fuel system. The tank will need drained at the minimum and the fuel pump likely will need to be replaced. If you pull the pump and find that the tank has gummed up with bad fuel, the tank will need to be removed and sent out to be cleaned. You will also need a new fuel level sender if this is the case.
Expect the injectors to need cleaned and flow tested and consider replacing the pulsation damper.
I also recommend squirting either automatic transmission fluid or marvel mystery oil into the rotor housings as you rotate the engine. The detergents will help to loosen any carbon buildup. You may find however the seals are stuck and have little to no spring tension. Sometimes they can be brought back and sometimes they cannot.
If the compression turns out to be good and once the fuel system is clean and ready, replace the spark plugs and wires, replace the belts, change the oil and coolant and give it a go on starting the engine. Then you can concentrate on brakes, tires, and worn suspension components and address any electrical concerns.
The issue that you will no doubt run into is the fuel system. The tank will need drained at the minimum and the fuel pump likely will need to be replaced. If you pull the pump and find that the tank has gummed up with bad fuel, the tank will need to be removed and sent out to be cleaned. You will also need a new fuel level sender if this is the case.
Expect the injectors to need cleaned and flow tested and consider replacing the pulsation damper.
I also recommend squirting either automatic transmission fluid or marvel mystery oil into the rotor housings as you rotate the engine. The detergents will help to loosen any carbon buildup. You may find however the seals are stuck and have little to no spring tension. Sometimes they can be brought back and sometimes they cannot.
If the compression turns out to be good and once the fuel system is clean and ready, replace the spark plugs and wires, replace the belts, change the oil and coolant and give it a go on starting the engine. Then you can concentrate on brakes, tires, and worn suspension components and address any electrical concerns.
The following users liked this post:
Sebas_VR46 (01-10-22)
01-10-22, 07:27 AM
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, this is a real help for someone that is walking blind in these areas. I will keep a post on how I advance and of any hiccups that may arise. Thanks again, it's a real pleasure to have help.
Regards, Seb.
Regards, Seb.
01-10-22, 08:29 AM
#6
welcome to the board. 
here is a link that you will likely find helpful: https://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/tech1.htm - there is a heading specifically for taking a car out of storage.
the major points have already been made in the posts above, so i don't have much, if anything, to add per see. what i would say is i'd be more worried about the fuel system's condition than i would be about the chambers. as long as the car was in a garage, and the major openings to the chambers (intake, exhaust or spark plug holes) were not left open to the element, you should be in fairly good shape. introduce oil to the chambers and turn the engine by hand. listen for 3 separate pulses from each rotor. if you don't get that, all is not lost, but it doesn't look good. change the oil and filter before you think about actually cranking it.
also, don't fall into the trap of driving the car after the engine does fire. you will want to address safety items like brakes and tires.
here is a link that you will likely find helpful: https://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/tech1.htm - there is a heading specifically for taking a car out of storage.
the major points have already been made in the posts above, so i don't have much, if anything, to add per see. what i would say is i'd be more worried about the fuel system's condition than i would be about the chambers. as long as the car was in a garage, and the major openings to the chambers (intake, exhaust or spark plug holes) were not left open to the element, you should be in fairly good shape. introduce oil to the chambers and turn the engine by hand. listen for 3 separate pulses from each rotor. if you don't get that, all is not lost, but it doesn't look good. change the oil and filter before you think about actually cranking it.
also, don't fall into the trap of driving the car after the engine does fire. you will want to address safety items like brakes and tires.
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