Jay8789

Hello I am new and if I read this correct then i should be posting in correct place.
First of all thanks I’ve been through some past posts and your knowledge has helped me loads so far on a few issues. I picked up my 92 fd a few weeks ago (been stood up for an age) took off the thermostat and one bolt snapped off on left side so i drilled out, replaced thermostat ect. New auxiliary belts and new nuts bolts.
But.... since then what a nightmare to start! I have to turn engine, turn off turn over turn off and so on till it fires!
Then I have to feather the throttle till it warms a bit then boom!! She’s fine runs like a dream ticks over starts stops all day, I can leave for up to 4/5 hours and starts fine but over night it settles and does the same next morn. The guy I bought off had a very small amount of fuel in the tank as he had it sat up for ages so I understand why. I’ve had a new MOT last week and have done some good milage on it. And it still does every morn.
Any advise and thanks in advance
jamie

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Jamie,

First, welcome to the forum. Second, your thread is in the wrong section. Third, it was difficult to read. Fourth, let's do a proper introduction. Lastly, what have you researched?

How about that introduction? Where are you from - England, maybe? Your reference to the MOT indicates you are in the UK.

Tell us more about your car. You said it's a '92 FD. Is it a base, touring, etc...?

To better understand your circumstances, please list the mods currently installed on the car. Could you please re-state your problem?

I moved this thread to a different section in the New Members area so your thread could get better visibility.

Jay8789

So sorry I am not the greatest on forums. In fact this is my first go at it.
Ok so, hello I am Jamie from Teignmouth Devon UK, I bought a 92 FD not sure on model and would love to know. I think it’s a touring it has a sunroof knee support leather interior AC and climate control witch I am told is rare but I don’t know that! It also has the Bose system but put an after market double din Alpine in, witch powers up but no sound? Weird. When I got the car it had been sat for a long time but the owner said it has had an engine build 500miles back the compression is spot on but the clutch is fried so I don’t believe it did. Who would build and engine and not put in a new clutch? I don’t know of any upgrades on the car. But it dose drive very well and I have have done a couple of things as described in my last unreadable post (sorry was in bed at time)
it doesn’t over heat and like I said the engine is spot on once up and running. My first thought it was a dirty fuel filter so I’ve bought a new one to fit at weekend but something is telling me that’s not it. I am fairly mechanically minded and used to in my younger years play a lot with cars but this is a rotary and my new baby so don’t want to ***** this up.
I have just fired her up and she’s warming up on my drive now sounds lovely ticks over nice. But again it took a good min to get her started loads of quick turn over stop start again. It’s like I have to drag the fuel up to the engine and once I do I have to feather the throttle until there’s enough vacuumed pressure to keep it going. If that makes any sense. The car has done 10000km so not bad on mileage
my thoughts are it’s the fuel pump but I don’t want to buy another if that’s not it.
Once again sorry for how last post was put together.
Kind regards
Jamie

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Welcome.
First thoughts based on the information provided I'd start with the ignition side of things. New plugs and if they look old, maybe new wires/leads. I recommend only OEM here...NGK. And if the car isn't heavily modified, OEM heat ranges on the plugs (BUR7EQP for leading (lower), BUR9EQP for trailing (top). Those don't cost a lot. Change them one at a time with the leads and use a little anti-seize on the threads.
Second, wasn't clear to me in your posts, but you've put fresh fuel in...right? Some quality fuel system/injector cleaner.

An OEM fuel filter here runs maybe $60 or so and changing it isn't a walk in the park for the first timer to change. But that doesn't mean it's not a good idea.

If you want, post a couple of good pictures of the engine bay and we might be able to give you a better idea of any visible modifications. You also need to go on-line and find a copy of the Factory Service Manual. A downloadable copy is available here in the FAQ sticky, but it's for the NADM car.

Jay8789

Hi and thanks for quick response, I did change the plugs a week ago as I thought it was the problem forgot to put that in the post 😫😫sorry. But I noticed you have 2 types where as I was only recommend the one type for all plugs that’s interesting. I did fill her right up when I took her for an MOT.
But that’s a good idea on injector cleaner I will get some now as I am going for a drive. Yes I will change the fuel filter as it can only help the situation. And I’ll try and upload some photos of the engine bay and inside and maybe someone could tell me what model I have 😂😂 thanks again for your advise
Jamie

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

welcome. the vin# will tell a lot. there's a thread somewhere on here that a member can run the vin for u.

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Jamie,

Thanks for the added details about your car.

As Sgtblue said, the default spark plugs are different between the leading (lower) and trailing (top) positions. You could run the same spark plug in each position but that is dependent upon specific engine configurations. Do you know if your engine is a stock reman or was it modified? Are you running a stock ECU or an aftermarket one?

I could speculate why the clutch was not replaced - it may not have been in the previous owner's budget. Or there could be other reasons only known to the previous owner.

If you suspect a fuel system problem then I would suggest downloading a copy of the FSM and performing a fuel pressure test. Changing the fuel filter is a PITA, especially when you do it for the 1st time. However, it's a good move to replace it because you don't know how long the old filter was installed. Don't forget to use Super (aka high-test) gasoline with an octane rating of approx 95+ RON. In the US, we have a different octane rating. We commonly see 91 on the west coast and 93 on the east coast. The use of fuel injector cleaners may improve the injector performance but it will not work miracles.

If you have problems with cold engine start-ups then the problem may be larger than changing the fuel filter, using the proper octane gas, and using fuel injector cleaner. There are other forum members who are more versed in diagnosing this type of problem.

Again, welcome to the forum and keep us posted on your progress.

AE_Racer

iTrader: (1)

If its a JDM import and has the auto climate control, its a Type X model. Basically the highest end luxury version of the RX7. I'm not sure what the UK got for models of the RX7.

Jay8789

Love this group already only been on here a short time and the knowledge is class! Thanks for all your help
also it’s in Wednesday for a new clutch and at the same time I will change the fuel filter and check for poss air leaks in fuel line.

Jamie 👍

Jay8789

Yes sorry it’s a JDM import.

Thanks again
jamie

Jay8789

Hi all again it’s still terrible to start I changed leads,and as before I’ve changed the plugs. I did change aux belts both of them seemed like a good Idea as they were off. I have noticed when you turn on heating the engine will hunt! Revs go up and down constantly until the heating is turned off then ticks over lovely. I am wondering if I’ve upset the alternator ect.
Any thoughts. And thanks again.
Jamie

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Jamie,

If your car won't turn over right away then you should verify 3 things: fuel, spark, and air. Do a fuel pressure test, then inspect your MAF sensor. Even though you changed plugs & wires, verify your ignition timing is spot on. Do you know what ECU is installed in the car - is it OEM or aftermarket?

Please remember that the alternator does its job after the car starts. The battery delivers the starting voltage and current needed to the starter and other accessories when the car is either off or the alternator is damaged. When the alternator is damaged then the battery would quickly drain. If you suspect the alternator is dying then it can be removed then load tested at an auto parts store.

All of these items to test are in the FSM. Did you get a copy to read?

Jay8789

Hello and thanks for the feedback I suspect my alternator is on way out but I will test as you recommended.
I have not downloaded FSM but I will now.
Also I have found a sensor that’s snapped clean off at the top near the rear of the water pump housing. It has a green plug that goes over the top. I believe it’s a water sensor, if that’s the case I think this may be causing the issue as it would tell the car it’s not cold ect and that would cause cold start problems. I will replace today and give feedback after just in case anyone else has the same problem.
Once again that’s for feedback.
Jamie

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Jamie,

The broken sensor sounds like a water thermoswitch. That helps control the radiator fan speed. It may not have an affect to a cold start problem. Could you attach a pic of the broken sensor?

Once you download the FSM, take a look at Section F, around pg F-178. You are looking for the Quick Diagnosis Chart. When there, look for the item "Cranks normally but hard to start" then "When engine cold". This chart will steer you in the right direction of possible parts to inspect.

Jay8789

Legend thanks
Jamie

Jay8789

Hi again. I did take off the cooling section removed the auxiliary belts put a new water pump and thermostat in. And then new belts. I could have moved the pulleys I don’t think i did, but if I did would that move the timing? Could that be a reason for cold start? And would the car run normal after like it does. I am worried that i have moved timing by a little bit and that’s the reason. I’ve looked and I am not sure how to time a rotary. I have done so in the past on pistons , sorry I could be being a bit thick here! As you can tell new to rotary engines.
Thanks all
Jamie

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

There should have been no reason to remove the main pulley to change belts.
But to answer your question...no. The trigger wheel only goes back on one way and it’s not likely it would run at all if not on properly.

Jay8789

I only changed the auxiliary belts because they were off and looked old. Thank you so much for your knowledge it’s invaluable

thanks
jamie

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

You might check the tabs of the trigger wheel to make sure none were accidentally bent. There are clearances set out in the Factory Service Manual between those tabs and the two crank sensors. I think 1-2mm max or so.

Jay8789

Thanks I will. But nearly 100% I didn’t touch them but will check. Just going to put new sensor in now. I haven’t started the car today on purpose. I’ll fit sensor and hope for the best
😂👍👍

SevenSin

Off-topic - damn, wish you were closer to London. I would give you a hand (e.g. pass me that tool with a funny tip) and learn a lot. Good look with your new toy

Jay8789

Ok first of all thanks for all your tips and help!
So after all that it was the water coolant sensor! What a bitch to change had to take out the alternator to get the socket on and even then had to borrow my mates really small snap on set. I’ve been in London for 4 days so didn’t start it on purpose after a few hours of swearing and finally getting the sensor in she fired up on one turn of the key and sounds amazing. And drives as she should 👍👍 I also took off the blow off valve and put the standard back on and I think it idles better, not sure if that’s just me😂😂
anyway thanks again to all that helped.
Jamie

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Jamie,

Glad to lend a hand! It is also good to know the coolant sensor was the cause of your problem. Enjoy your FD!