JagRX7

Hey all, wanted to say first thanks for this forum and everything its done for me already. I just bought my FD recently, waited a decade for it and am new posting to the forums but not new at all to research here. I've just posted about the car and its story in the intro.

I have all the typical reliability mods done along with dp, racing beat catback, K&N intake, Efini y-pipe.
I installed a boost gauge recently and i'm getting really bad patterns and low numbers on it. 8-7-6, 9-7-7 sometimes even 8-6-6 (to redline).
I have a rotary only place that did the hoses and airflow mods for me and they are saying I need to take the boost reading off the map sensor. I've followed most of the tips from various sites like Rob's and have it connected to the manifold on the right side of the block.
The gauge itself is one of the new prosport types, its digital and it wasn't cheap but if thats the problem i'll happily change it out.

Heres the interesting part, i own a 2010 speed3 which has some light mods to it and this FD I bought is way faster. I know its lighter but hp wise they're close to the same, and the speed3 has way more torque. I've been running the 40-70 test and my numbers are not coming out right for the low boost i'm showing.
Heres some test results:
1/2 tank gas, 180lbs driver, 80 degree day
4.3, 4.2, 3.9, 4.1, 4.2 (I did it 5 times in the other direction as well, same results average 4.15)

1/4 tank gas, 180lbs driver, 50 degree night
3.8, 3.9, 3.75, 3.7, 3.7, 3.8 ...etc i ran it a few more times and got closer to 4's because i haven't blocked off the radiator from the intake.

As you can see these are not stock numbers, i really don't have much in the way of performance mods... maybe the engine was street ported by the prior owner but the car was so stock when i bought it i highly doubt that.
The last piece of information might help some the more experienced owners out there make sense of this for me. I bought the car a few months ago with 37,450 miles on it, drove it half way across the country to get it home and now has barely 40K.
Maybe this is just a very good running young engine with a gauge thats faulty or reading off the wrong spot?
I was planning on changing out my plugs and wires thinking they were 25 years old but with my performance i don't want to if i don't have to since i'll be doing fuel, cat and ECU upgrades next spring. What do you guys think?
Thanks for your input! Sorry if this is lengthy. I also appreciate any recommendations for additional reliability and anything else i seem stupid about. My intro thread this morning has all those details. Much appreciated!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Cliff notes..What is the Question?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

First, since the MAP (boost) sensor sources it's readings from the upper manifold, I don't see how hooking your boost gauge to 'T' into it rather than to the other vacuum/boost nipple next to it on that same manifold will change things.

Second, if your readings are accurate, there are just too many things that could cause it that internet speculating would be pointless. This is from the FAQ sticky in the 3rd Gen. Tech Section. It might get you pointed in the right direction. Turbocharger Overview

Third, for new responsible owners I usually recommend they get a maintenance baseline for their cars by changing out all fluids...and a new set of plugs. It's simple, not expensive and in the process you usually end up familiarizing yourself with the car. Given the relatively stock state of your car, stay with stock heat-range NGK plugs, leading (lower) and Trailing (top). Change them one at a time so you don't get anything crossed up and use a little low-temp anti-seize on the plug threads.

JagRX7

Hm... I see a few question marks. As i said i'm looking for advice.
Thanks for the input.

JagRX7

Do you have an opinion on how well the car is performing based on the boost levels and pattern being read?

I appreciate your insight on the plugs, i was thinking the same. I guess wires too, not expensive may as well.
I have the fluids changed out with Neo tranny/diff, and the Japanese 20W50 from rx7.com.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

^It won't address your boost issue, but don't forget to change coolant. Just as important as the other fluids and it's also cheap. You now have a bi-metal engine block (iron and aluminum) susceptible to electrolysis and corrosion. Coolant also goes acidic over time...not good for metal or things like soft seals. Use as much distilled water with coolant as you can get away with, but not below (IMO) 20% coolant. Not something I'd loose sleep over, but I trend toward the brands advertised for Asian engines...silicate free.

Know that he's a moderator here and your initial post was pretty long. Now imagine reading 100 posts like yours a day. It just helps to keep questions focused and to the point on one...maybe two topics. Cliff notes. We're all volunteers here, making it easy on us is usually the best tact.

JagRX7

As i said i've changed out all the fluids.

My questions were detail oriented and i gave those details without droning on.
I've now had bad experiences with 3 moderators since my initial posts 2 days ago on this forums after spending years loving and using it. My disapointment can't be over stated.

I've been more than appreciative and quite tackful. Of course its volunteer, help or don't.
I'll move onto another medium. Cheers.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Ointment is on isle 5. Good thing you never ventured beyond the NEW MEMBER area, they can be pretty hard on a pouty adolescent.