New FD, a few questions.
New FD, a few questions.
Hello,
I recently bought a 1993 RX-7 Touring Edition with around 18,000 original miles. Everything on the car is stock and I intend to keep it that way. I had three questions about it that I was wondering if the community could help me with:
1. I want to install an OEM R1 front strut bar. Will doing this negatively affect or change anything with my stock suspension setup? What torque settings should I use with the bolts?
2. I was wondering what oil to use for my stock setup. The dealer that sold it to me filled it up with conventional Castrol10W-40. Is this a good brand and weight for the car? I know opinions on oil swing wildly but what would be a good oil brand and weight to use on a stock setup like mine?
3. Is there anyplace left to get genuine OEM mazda touch up paint anymore?
Thanks,
Drew
I recently bought a 1993 RX-7 Touring Edition with around 18,000 original miles. Everything on the car is stock and I intend to keep it that way. I had three questions about it that I was wondering if the community could help me with:
1. I want to install an OEM R1 front strut bar. Will doing this negatively affect or change anything with my stock suspension setup? What torque settings should I use with the bolts?
2. I was wondering what oil to use for my stock setup. The dealer that sold it to me filled it up with conventional Castrol10W-40. Is this a good brand and weight for the car? I know opinions on oil swing wildly but what would be a good oil brand and weight to use on a stock setup like mine?
3. Is there anyplace left to get genuine OEM mazda touch up paint anymore?
Thanks,
Drew
Last edited by misterstyx69; Nov 17, 2012 at 11:40 PM.
Sounds like a nice car you got...
1) Nope, it will not negatively affect the suspension, it will nicely stiffen up the chassis. The FSM has the torque settings, but I just tighten them until they feel tight.
2) 20w50 in the summer, 10x30 in the winter. I use 20w50 all year FWIW.
3) No idea, but most online sites carry good touch up paint.
1) Nope, it will not negatively affect the suspension, it will nicely stiffen up the chassis. The FSM has the torque settings, but I just tighten them until they feel tight.
2) 20w50 in the summer, 10x30 in the winter. I use 20w50 all year FWIW.
3) No idea, but most online sites carry good touch up paint.
^Agree on all three. I would add.......
*It's great that you want to keep it original. But if it truely is COMPLETELY stock, I strongly recommend replacing the stock pre-cat with a quality downpipe. The precats are essentially huge oven burners putting out massive amounts of underhood heat. That heat bakes plastics, hoses and solenoids. But most of all they have been known to collapse and plug up your main cat...which can cost you an engine. The nice thing is, good downpipes aren't that expensive, generally don't effect emissions if you deal with that where you live, and you get a nice performance bump too. I'd also recommend having it heat-coated or at least putting header wrap on it.
*If you haven't already, read thru the 3rd Gen. Stickys and/or search for reliability mods.
*What oil you use is not nearly as important as regular changes with intervals being a little closer than you might be used to with a piston engine. Rotaries...even low mileage originals, tend to get contaminated and have varying degrees of fuel dilution over time. Viscosity is dependent on the climate and season. If you search you'll find tons of debate on regular oil vs. synthetic. I can tell you what I use and why, but you should still read and make up your own mind. Good arguments on both sides.
*It's great that you want to keep it original. But if it truely is COMPLETELY stock, I strongly recommend replacing the stock pre-cat with a quality downpipe. The precats are essentially huge oven burners putting out massive amounts of underhood heat. That heat bakes plastics, hoses and solenoids. But most of all they have been known to collapse and plug up your main cat...which can cost you an engine. The nice thing is, good downpipes aren't that expensive, generally don't effect emissions if you deal with that where you live, and you get a nice performance bump too. I'd also recommend having it heat-coated or at least putting header wrap on it.
*If you haven't already, read thru the 3rd Gen. Stickys and/or search for reliability mods.
*What oil you use is not nearly as important as regular changes with intervals being a little closer than you might be used to with a piston engine. Rotaries...even low mileage originals, tend to get contaminated and have varying degrees of fuel dilution over time. Viscosity is dependent on the climate and season. If you search you'll find tons of debate on regular oil vs. synthetic. I can tell you what I use and why, but you should still read and make up your own mind. Good arguments on both sides.
Wow, 18k Miles. How much did you pay if you don't mind me asking?
I see your not into after-market mods, however, are you interested in Reliability mods ?
I always put 1oz of 2 cycle oil per 1 gallon of gas in my tank for extra insurance. And I hear doing the R1 Oil Cooler upgrade using stock parts is very well worth the money.
I see your not into after-market mods, however, are you interested in Reliability mods ?
I always put 1oz of 2 cycle oil per 1 gallon of gas in my tank for extra insurance. And I hear doing the R1 Oil Cooler upgrade using stock parts is very well worth the money.
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