need help Ignition breaking s4na
#1
need help Ignition breaking s4na
THis has been troubling me for a few weeks now after cold start to warm up, my
car seems to be doing what seems to be ignition break on throttle, most
times it's early 1st gear acceleration and even a little in second.
Other days it would be in the middle of 3rd gear after letting off the gas and then
suddenly stepping on it on the highway at 45mph. It feels like one whole rotor is not
being fired or there is a jerking skipping motion about the car.
The car is capable of driving a smooth acceleration, the
symptom occurs randomly even sometimes at higher rpm 4-6k
Lack of airflow? bad afm internals? primary injector rubber going bad?
I recently cleaned the connectors for those.
13bna RB header>highflow cat> dual exhaust
K&N Cone filter intake no box
just changed to new plug wires and it seems to have helped only slightly
ever so, spark plugs as well not much a difference more comprehensive than that
cleaned ecu ground on bloc
cleaned ignition coil grounds
cleaned fuel pump ground at fuel pump housing
cleaned ground on top of transmission bell housing
no detected obvious vaccuum leaks
idle solid at 750 after 8min warmup from 1500
compression at high 90 low 100 avg on both rotors
getting spark on all four plugs
cleaned secondary inj/throttle body housing dyn. chamber components
I've read up on the forums but most ofthese cases include turbo tuners but not a single Na
this isn't normal
#3
checked and set tps as per the fsm and 13Btec/and clinton manual, cleaned the maf/afm with maf cleaner... had no significant change, issue persists.
I noticed that my alternator belt is off spec and getting loose, i suppose if I mash on the throttle it's likely that the belt can slip and cause ignition issues or other miscl. gremlins to occur?
No idea if that theory is sound, but I'll update later today.
#4
roTAR needz fundZ
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Have you cleaned all the grounds? Specifically the one under the intake manifold, and where the coils mount, and theres another on the drivers side front strut area that collects a ton of road grime from the tires
I would start there then replace the fuel filter, get the injectors serviced, and if that still doesn’t fix it, be cracking into the gas tank and check the sock
I would start there then replace the fuel filter, get the injectors serviced, and if that still doesn’t fix it, be cracking into the gas tank and check the sock
#5
Have you cleaned all the grounds? Specifically the one under the intake manifold, and where the coils mount, and theres another on the drivers side front strut area that collects a ton of road grime from the tires
I would start there then replace the fuel filter, get the injectors serviced, and if that still doesn’t fix it, be cracking into the gas tank and check the sock
I would start there then replace the fuel filter, get the injectors serviced, and if that still doesn’t fix it, be cracking into the gas tank and check the sock
I have done all of those things with the exception of servicing the primary injectors prior to posting this issue.
I found that the loose drivebelt on the alternator adjustment bracket was at full span, which led to what felt like ignition break but was actually just the belt slipping at higher torque.
What I have now is a smoother acceleration albeit slower acceleration but a tighter belt purchased from Atkins.
[PROBLEM SOLVED* PLS remove]
foolish of me not to start with the basics
I ran my car hard multiple times today and not a single hitch, letting off the throttle was also smoother, car still wanted to go instead of jerking before I replaced the belt,..
#6
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I can't see that replacing the Alternator belt actually fixed your problem,as the Alternator,waterpump and steering (and if you got one,air pump) has nothing to do with the ignition system.
The CAS is Gear driven through the front cover.
QUESTION: if you put that header on,How did you deal with the aux ports(5/6 ports.)??..are they hooked up still?..IF NOT that can produce a lack of acceleration.
The CAS is Gear driven through the front cover.
QUESTION: if you put that header on,How did you deal with the aux ports(5/6 ports.)??..are they hooked up still?..IF NOT that can produce a lack of acceleration.
#7
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
I can't see that replacing the Alternator belt actually fixed your problem,as the Alternator,waterpump and steering (and if you got one,air pump) has nothing to do with the ignition system.
The CAS is Gear driven through the front cover.
QUESTION: if you put that header on,How did you deal with the aux ports(5/6 ports.)??..are they hooked up still?..IF NOT that can produce a lack of acceleration.
The CAS is Gear driven through the front cover.
QUESTION: if you put that header on,How did you deal with the aux ports(5/6 ports.)??..are they hooked up still?..IF NOT that can produce a lack of acceleration.
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#8
I can't see that replacing the Alternator belt actually fixed your problem,as the Alternator,waterpump and steering (and if you got one,air pump) has nothing to do with the ignition system.
The CAS is Gear driven through the front cover.
QUESTION: if you put that header on,How did you deal with the aux ports(5/6 ports.)??..are they hooked up still?..IF NOT that can produce a lack of acceleration.
The CAS is Gear driven through the front cover.
QUESTION: if you put that header on,How did you deal with the aux ports(5/6 ports.)??..are they hooked up still?..IF NOT that can produce a lack of acceleration.
PO had access to lifts everyday (diesel mechanic), I have reason to believe he installed from underneath the car.
I daily this car and the problem went away after changing the old drivebelt at the same day cleaning the afm with maf cleaner. Belt was cracked on the rubber all the way around. deflection was near 1inch
#9
This car does not have any interior lights other than the door illum. and idiot cluster, the turn signals and the shift up light. No AC.
I have a Deka Intimidator AGM battery
When I cleaned the afm I used maf cleanerer with prejudice, also sprayed and then lubricated the connection points of the harness with dielectric grease over and under each pin with a fine needle. perhaps that could be a factor. Not sure. haven't checked CAS