motor mount replacement
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Use the little jack that comes with the car on the transmission bellhousing. Replace one mount at a time, starting with the passenger side (because that's the most annoying one to do).
What i did was use my floor jack with a block of wood on the flat spot of the tranny where the clutch peep hole is and swapped both, kinda a pain in the *** if your by yourself... But it is possible
What part of the process do you suggest i look out for? this will be my first time and its my weekend project this week.
any warnings? I'll be doing this solo.
A block of wood to spread the load is definitely advised. Especially if you lift from the oil pan, which is required on convertibles (extra subframe brace in the way).
1) Don't lift it too far, or you'll smash A/C lines, etc... on the firewall.
2) When the passenger side mount unbolts from the pan, you may get a little oil leakage. Pressure on the pan gets reduced, so work quickly.
3) Make sure the dimples on the mounts line up the same way as the ones coming out. I believe they end up in the slots on the brackets.
1) Don't lift it too far, or you'll smash A/C lines, etc... on the firewall.
2) When the passenger side mount unbolts from the pan, you may get a little oil leakage. Pressure on the pan gets reduced, so work quickly.
3) Make sure the dimples on the mounts line up the same way as the ones coming out. I believe they end up in the slots on the brackets.
Thanks for all the tips. I just successfully replaced the passenger side. I found it a lot easier than the drivers side tho. The driver side wouldnt come off easy and I had bad leverage under the car. I couldnt finish the drivers side because it got dark. I'm thinking for the driver side, i shuold lift the engine a lil higher. i got all the nuts loose(x3) that connects tot he engine and i got the motor mount loose but it still would come off. i'll try again tomorrow.



