That is a brilliant idea! Never even crossed my mind.

 

Definitely agree with the mad scientist idea! I've actually got a s5 vert engine I pulled out of my last rx7. It was running but burned oil. About to tear it apart so let me know if you need any n/a parts. Also my buddy has a turbo engine he'd probly let go for 600 or so. It has good compression on the rear rotor. Good candidate for a rebuild. I'm about to rebuild my engine actually. Hoping I don't need a rotor and housing seeing as my front rotor has almost no compression... sigh

 

Definitely. Once I rip it apart and learn the old fashioned way, I'll know what i'm in the market for. For once, I actually have a day off. I'm thinking I'll go n/a with this one.

 

I'd say that is wise. The cost of a rebuild will be the same as far as parts go whether it's turbo or non turbo but if you don't have a turboII to rebuild then that's a different story. Not to mention you can mod and beat on a n/a to you hearts content but a turbo is a lot more touchy. I love the power of the turbo but am missing the longevity of my n/a considering this is the 2nd time I'll be rebuilding mine.

 

Longevity is definitely something i'm looking for right now. I'd also rather not deal with something too finicky as far as a rookie build goes. Maybe once i've built this one I'll find a turbo car to play with.

 

Yeah its a good idea. I've recently contemplated naturally aspirating my turboII but instead I'm just going to throw a stock down pipe on until I can afford a fmic and a stand alone fuel management system... leaning towards an adaptronic or a used rtek 2.1 due to pricing. But yeah I just want to be able to really beat on my car after I do this rebuild lol.

 

I definitely understand that. Being able to just beat on something makes the hard work worthwhile. Pricing is always a factor haha i'm hoping tomorrow I'll be able to start playing mad scientist

 

Haha yeah just gotta get down n dirty. I just ordered my rebuild kit from Rotary Aviation with super seals and springs. About to start tearing down my engine as well as the n/a. Hoping all my housings are okay lol. But yeah just start tearing **** apart. If you hit a wall watch aaroncakes' youtube video on disassembly. There's also tons of videos on rebuilds if you need them. Good luck and have fun!

 

Well, I ended up landing an 87 se that's missing a water pump has a broken oil metering line and need pulleys. You could say I'm all in now. Anything I can salvage off the engine from the vert will be used on my new car. From there I will have a bare bones project vert and a running hardtop.

 

Well I got that second car running. Now I've got two issues. 1. She doesn't consistently start (changed the starter and that has helped significantly) 2. She idles around 3400-4k and stays there. Any advice?

 

Chances are the throttle cable (there are two of them if you have cruise control) is too tight. There should be slack and no tightness to the cable.

 

Ive had that high rpm idle before in my car, ill try let you know what the issue is on mine when it gets fixed. GL with build looks like fun!

 

The throttle cable wasn't the issue. I thought a nasty vacuum leak, but before I could track it the exhaust decided to glow cherry red. I thought backed up cat, turns out the cat was not backed up. So between crazy idling and glowing exhaust, I'm at a loss.

 

Could be the AFM flapper door is stuck open too much. Could be the timing is off.

 

Okay I ripped the afm out and the flapper door doesn't appear to be hung open any. I did however look up the part number on it (n318 13 210) and it turned up a afm for a turbo car. Mine is n/a, could this be playing any part In the issue?

 

It shouldn't affect the idling of the car but it would affect the driveability of it. And the position of the flapper door is important w/the car running and not when it is removed from the car.

Secondly, you need to check the timing.

Thirdly, if the throttle cable is good there could be a second throttle cable related to the cruise control.

Lastly, w/the intake duct removed from the throttle body the primary plates should barely be open just a fraction of an inch.