putting it back together to check, do you know what the black ground near the ECU goes to?

 

I don't know what you are referring to.

 

@ecu 2b is 3.98v

ground im referring to.

 

Now that you know the Green wire is in spec is there a test for the AFM in the FSM which deals w/the movement of the AFM cone?

 

both AFMs tested in spec, but i dont believe there is one for movement.

 

At the circuit opening relay there is a Brown wire on the bottom row far right position. Measure the wire w/key to on and w/key to off and see if the readings differ from each other.

Then jumper the fuel check connector and retest the Brown wire w/just key to on.

 

Where is that relay located?

 

Post #14.

 

Ill check it when i get home.

 

AFM Connected

No Key, No Jumper no voltage
Key In, No Jumper 11.8v
Key in, Jumper in, no voltage, can hear the pump running.

 

Try starting the car w/the jumper in place and AFM connected.

 

Same result, car revs and dies.

unplugged no jumper starts, still hold solid for about 30 seconds then goes to pulsing and small backfires.

 

When the AFM is unplugged are you unplugging the electrical connector only or are you removing the AFM from being connected to the intake tube or what? And does the cone move freely on the AFM. Also, the voltage of the Green wire should drop close to 1 volt w/key to on and the cone depressed. If it were idling the Green wire should read less than 4 volts.

The voltage on the Blue wire in the relay under the dash would have voltage w/the jumper in place and key to on as well as when starting the car and even if the car dies out it should continuously hold close to the same voltage (might want to check this). If there were no jumper in place then the ECU should provide a ground to the relay's Brown wire which keeps the engine running once the engine starts and not before. Seems like it's possible the ECU is not doing this but if the jumper were in place it would be doing the job of the ECU and should cause the fuel pump to continue to run.

 

I am just disconnecting the electrical, the cone on both afm's move freely

 

It's possible that one of your problems could be the primary injectors are somewhat clogged. W/o the AFM connected the ECU will dump a lot of fuel into the engine and perhaps this is needed to keep the car running. Another thing you might want to check is the water thermosensor as it helps guide how much fuel is injected depending on the engine temp. The wire is Green/White and found at pin 2E of the ECU. W/key to on the voltage should be 2 to 3 volts w/the engine cold. Also, you should take the voltage readings of the ECU pins w/key to on and compare to the readings specified in the FSM to see if there are any glaring discrepancies. .

 

Can i remove the primary injectors without removing the manifold?
What section is the ecu voltage guide in?
Any thoughts on a vacuum leak?

I really appreciate your help.

 

The primary injectors are installed into the engine housings so you would have to remove what's above it to gain access. You could switch the secondary ECU pins w/the primary ECU pins and use the secondary injectors in place of the primaries.

The wiring section lists the pin outs and I think so does the fuel and emissions section.

And you could very well have a vacuum leak. A pressure test might be in order.

And is there anything about the engine and its related components which are not stock?

 

Its all stock... Minus the air filter and efan. Was well taken care of till the last owners got it.

 

alright, did every one i could do, just the Key On ones...
Heat Hazard is at 5v
2B was 4.0v was @ 0.4v fully depressed.
2E was @ 2.46v




went to DMV, car wasnt on a NonOp like the previous owner said... 2 years back registration.

 

The FSM doesn't provide a fully depressed reading but either not depressed or just at idle so your number is German to me. The other reading was fine. I would focus on an air leak first and then clogged primary injectors.

 

well, its acting different now, it revs to about 6k holds there for a few seconds and dies...
AFM still disconnected.

was trying to start it again, before i take the Upper intake manifold apart to see if i could find any definite air leaks.

i did just take the throttle body off and clean out a ton of gunk.... little further reading, im guessing its something i did when messing with the throttle body.

 

well, found a broken check valve, there was an airline bracket between the intake manifold and the engine, the omp lines are electrical taped... /sigh

 

VDI valve was stuck in high speed engine mode.

cleaning tons of rtv and paint.

Can the bottom part of the intake manifold be removed while the motor is still in the car?

 

Yes.

 

looks like one of the pintle caps is partially missing... not sure if i did it, didnt see any pieces, how bad would that be if it fell in the housing?