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Idle issues maybe?

Old Mar 31, 2015 | 12:03 PM
  #26  
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From: Jefferson City, TN
Satch I have the correct voltage at the brown red wire (it's solid green now I replaced it) I also have correct wiring to the alt. voltage test good there as well, the original n/a cluster I have reads 174xxx miles and the temp gauge does not work due to bad sensor. Oil pressure gauge is accurate usually sits some where between 30 and 60.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 01:13 PM
  #27  
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From: tulsa,ok.
The following link might explain why the temp sensor does not work. Read through the thread and pay attention to the posts supplied by Hailers.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...p-help-699305/
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 03:39 PM
  #28  
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From: Jefferson City, TN
Thanks for the help Satch again but per the post I read by HAILERS I have already swapped a y/r wire from the x-15 to the x-16 connector going to a y/b wire. Also in my swapping I have deleted a LgB wire from x-16 connector and I also deleted wire and added new for the alternator, and boost sensor. With back probing I now have correct voltage at pin 2b for the boost sensor and also at the boost sensor connector in the engine bay. I did conduct some test on my AFM which leave me believing that it is shot.

It is weird though because I originally purchased the AFM in order for the vehicle to run and it did well minus hesitations at 3500rpm under load and free rev. Which I believed to be the 3500 rpm issue so common in the vehicles so I went on a mission to re-ground. I added grounds to the ECU per Aaron Cakes write up and the stumble went away under no load in the driveway, but seemed worse under load.

Now after all of this probably by some fault of my own my hesitation is worse and now occurs at or between 2k and 2500 rpm under no load.

My plugs are fouled I have a serious blow by issue with fuel being in the oil, from what I believe was due to the car having too large of injectors in the secondary location when purchased. So I replaced them with recently serviced injectors of the correct size. The blow by could (I believe) be due to excessive rich condition ( it has never flooded) while running the larger injectors, and a failing AFM.

Sorry again for the novel but I am trying to get it all out there and get this figured out. I have also installed a new FPR, circuit opening relay, boost sensor and I removed a bad fcd that was previously installed.

Again any help would be nice, honestly Im at the point where A n/a emissions harness is starting to look better and better.
Thanks
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 03:48 PM
  #29  
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From: Jefferson City, TN
Originally Posted by Moses865
Thanks for the help Satch again but per the post I read by HAILERS I have already swapped a y/r wire from the x-15 to the x-16 connector going to a y/b wire. Also in my swapping I have deleted a LgB wire from x-16 connector and I also deleted wire and added new for the alternator, and boost sensor. With back probing I now have correct voltage at pin 2b for the boost sensor and also at the boost sensor connector in the engine bay. I did conduct some test on my AFM which leave me believing that it is shot.

It is weird though because I originally purchased the AFM in order for the vehicle to run and it did well minus hesitations at 3500rpm under load and free rev. Which I believed to be the 3500 rpm issue so common in the vehicles so I went on a mission to re-ground. I added grounds to the ECU per Aaron Cakes write up and the stumble went away under no load in the driveway, but seemed worse under load.

Now after all of this probably by some fault of my own my hesitation is worse and now occurs at or between 2k and 2500 rpm under no load.

My plugs are fouled I have a serious blow by issue with fuel being in the oil, from what I believe was due to the car having too large of injectors in the secondary location when purchased. So I replaced them with recently serviced injectors of the correct size. The blow by could (I believe) be due to excessive rich condition ( it has never flooded) while running the larger injectors, and a failing AFM.

Sorry again for the novel but I am trying to get it all out there and get this figured out. I have also installed a new FPR, circuit opening relay, boost sensor and I removed a bad fcd that was previously installed.

Again any help would be nice, honestly Im at the point where A n/a emissions harness is starting to look better and better.
Thanks
Correction the wire I swapped from x-15 to x-16 was yellow and white.
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