hey there, general questions...
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hey there, general questions...
and a few other things.
88 13b n/a.
first off, i see theres 4 lug and 5 lug cars on this site. and significant difference between the two? such as stronger rear ends and such.
how much work would it take to turbo the n/a motor? lets say i already got a megasquirt laying around.
i was checking out the car today bc i just recently got it. near the rear of the exhaust manifold, i have a random vacuum line coming out. connected to a metal line. no idea where it goes. perhaps those actuators on the side of the motor? also, i have what seems to be a coolant line that i would think would be for the heater core, that isn't attached to anything, and there isn't coolant coming out of the hose while running. also i tried plugging the vacuum line i found while running and caused no issues. the car idles "smooth" and probably needs an engine mount. ((easy enough)). it is running alittle rough, but i have an exhaust leak, and if its coming from the manifold to the engine, then that would be throwing off my o2 sensor, hence rougher idle. but anyways, that's all i got.
new to the rotary scene, and i enjoy driving it at the moment.
88 13b n/a.
first off, i see theres 4 lug and 5 lug cars on this site. and significant difference between the two? such as stronger rear ends and such.
how much work would it take to turbo the n/a motor? lets say i already got a megasquirt laying around.
i was checking out the car today bc i just recently got it. near the rear of the exhaust manifold, i have a random vacuum line coming out. connected to a metal line. no idea where it goes. perhaps those actuators on the side of the motor? also, i have what seems to be a coolant line that i would think would be for the heater core, that isn't attached to anything, and there isn't coolant coming out of the hose while running. also i tried plugging the vacuum line i found while running and caused no issues. the car idles "smooth" and probably needs an engine mount. ((easy enough)). it is running alittle rough, but i have an exhaust leak, and if its coming from the manifold to the engine, then that would be throwing off my o2 sensor, hence rougher idle. but anyways, that's all i got.
new to the rotary scene, and i enjoy driving it at the moment.
#2
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welcome to the board.
check out the Gen II FAQ sticky at the top of the page. it will detail the brakes and rear ends at least so far as to elucidate what options were available.
the question about turbocharging the 6-port engine will also be addressed there as well. obviously, it can be done, but to do it correctly is not as simple as slapping a turbocharger on there and boosting away. you will need to fortify other existing systems (e.g. fuel) as well as install/fabricate systems that weren't there before (intercooler).
yes. that sounds like the line for the auxiliary port actuators.
it would help if you could describe these two a bit more. a photo would be even better.
the question about turbocharging the 6-port engine will also be addressed there as well. obviously, it can be done, but to do it correctly is not as simple as slapping a turbocharger on there and boosting away. you will need to fortify other existing systems (e.g. fuel) as well as install/fabricate systems that weren't there before (intercooler).
near the rear of the exhaust manifold, i have a random vacuum line coming out. connected to a metal line. no idea where it goes. perhaps those actuators on the side of the motor?
also, i have what seems to be a coolant line that i would think would be for the heater core, that isn't attached to anything, and there isn't coolant coming out of the hose while running.
also i tried plugging the vacuum line i found while running and caused no issues.
also i tried plugging the vacuum line i found while running and caused no issues.
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can't really take pics atm. the coolant line im speaking of seems to go under the intake manifold. and i thought that was where the vacuum line would of went. but im only seeing one line, and 2 actuators. what do those actuators do?
what are the aux port actuators do?
from what i was understanding before, turboing the n/a motor would involve WAY too much work to even bother doing. i understand the injectors would need upgraded, the pump, and megasquirt would handle the ignition mapping and a boost.
the question is have is about whether or not the transmission and rear end would handle it? considering that the rear axles bolt on instead of slipping in, its possible to use the same axles, and it would just be different spindles for the 5 lug conversion im supposing. just sort of asking/thinking outloud. correct me if im wrong of course.
also, another random electronical bug im having. the warning lamps ((all of them)) are staying on after i turn off the vehicle and remove the key. as well as the shift up indicator on the instrument cluster. any idea what this may be? it keeps killing my battery.
what are the aux port actuators do?
from what i was understanding before, turboing the n/a motor would involve WAY too much work to even bother doing. i understand the injectors would need upgraded, the pump, and megasquirt would handle the ignition mapping and a boost.
the question is have is about whether or not the transmission and rear end would handle it? considering that the rear axles bolt on instead of slipping in, its possible to use the same axles, and it would just be different spindles for the 5 lug conversion im supposing. just sort of asking/thinking outloud. correct me if im wrong of course.
also, another random electronical bug im having. the warning lamps ((all of them)) are staying on after i turn off the vehicle and remove the key. as well as the shift up indicator on the instrument cluster. any idea what this may be? it keeps killing my battery.
#4
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the auxiliary port actuators do just that. they open and close the auxiliary ports (5 and 6). basically there is a sleeve in the port and the actuators turn the sleeve to open and close the ports.
as i said, to turbo a 6 port engine involves work. whether or not it's too much really depends on what you want at the end of the day. if you think it's too much for you right now, then it probably is.
the transmission and rear end will handle a lot of power IF you don't go crazy with how you use them. the more heavy handed (or footed) you are the more likely you will break something. another trick you could use might be to build something to "give way" before you break something (clutch, tires, etc.)
the 5-lug conversion will require hubs and all the brake hardware. however, depending on what you want to do, you can actually use a few of the 4-lug parts, too.
for the electrical issue, start with checking your ignition switch. also, maybe the previous owner did some alternator work that didn't ... work.
as i said, to turbo a 6 port engine involves work. whether or not it's too much really depends on what you want at the end of the day. if you think it's too much for you right now, then it probably is.
the transmission and rear end will handle a lot of power IF you don't go crazy with how you use them. the more heavy handed (or footed) you are the more likely you will break something. another trick you could use might be to build something to "give way" before you break something (clutch, tires, etc.)
the 5-lug conversion will require hubs and all the brake hardware. however, depending on what you want to do, you can actually use a few of the 4-lug parts, too.
for the electrical issue, start with checking your ignition switch. also, maybe the previous owner did some alternator work that didn't ... work.
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what are the aux port actuators do?
from what i was understanding before, turboing the n/a motor would involve WAY too much work to even bother doing. i understand the injectors would need upgraded, the pump, and megasquirt would handle the ignition mapping and a boost.
The TII lower intake manifold can be port matched to the 6 port NA block then bolted right up. This allows all the TII external parts to be bolted to that block. Upper intake, intercooler, turbo, exhaust. Then you just need to feed the turbo with water and oil. You'd need to control fuel/spark of course, which would be the Megasquirt. And of course you'd want to make sure the engine was strong and in good shape.
It depends if that is the type of work you are comfortable with.
In most cases if someone wants a turbo car they should just buy one. Or perform the TII swap if they are attached to their chassis.
the question is have is about whether or not the transmission and rear end would handle it? considering that the rear axles bolt on instead of slipping in, its possible to use the same axles, and it would just be different spindles for the 5 lug conversion im supposing. just sort of asking/thinking outloud. correct me if im wrong of course.
As for the 5 lug swap, that's easy. Buy 5 lug hubs, swap onto 4 lug car. You will also need 5 lug brakes.
also, another random electronical bug im having. the warning lamps ((all of them)) are staying on after i turn off the vehicle and remove the key. as well as the shift up indicator on the instrument cluster. any idea what this may be? it keeps killing my battery.
#6
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with the key off, i was getting power to 2 wires, the blue wire, and i believe a thicker black one.
I was actually in the market for a holset HX35 or 40 series turbo if i was planning on turboing the car, which was why i was asking about the drivetrain. the motor has 146k on it, so i figure it won't have much life left in it once the turbo is installed and running. but rather not rebuild the motor or swap for stronger internals just to have the drivetrain fall apart on me.
i'll see what i can do about getting some pictures taken for this what appears to be a coolant line. seems too short to be an air line going somewhere. as well as this vacuum line. i got exhaust gaskets coming for the manifold and hopefully that will cure my rough idle.
I was actually in the market for a holset HX35 or 40 series turbo if i was planning on turboing the car, which was why i was asking about the drivetrain. the motor has 146k on it, so i figure it won't have much life left in it once the turbo is installed and running. but rather not rebuild the motor or swap for stronger internals just to have the drivetrain fall apart on me.
i'll see what i can do about getting some pictures taken for this what appears to be a coolant line. seems too short to be an air line going somewhere. as well as this vacuum line. i got exhaust gaskets coming for the manifold and hopefully that will cure my rough idle.
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I was actually in the market for a holset HX35 or 40 series turbo if i was planning on turboing the car, which was why i was asking about the drivetrain. the motor has 146k on it, so i figure it won't have much life left in it once the turbo is installed and running. but rather not rebuild the motor or swap for stronger internals just to have the drivetrain fall apart on me.
1. as said earlier, the tranny and rear will be affected by how you drive thing with the extra torque, more so than the extra torque itself. look up Aaron's FC (Project TiNA).
2. the engine will obviously encounter more stress with a turbo than without, but in addition to your use/abuse of it, you also have to consider how much time YOU take to build and tune it correctly. any shortcomings in those areas would probably pop a turbo block just as easily.
i'll see what i can do about getting some pictures taken for this what appears to be a coolant line. seems too short to be an air line going somewhere. as well as this vacuum line. i got exhaust gaskets coming for the manifold and hopefully that will cure my rough idle.
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not sure what you are exactly referring to,so I'll eliminate possibilities.
First Circle: (left one)..the Steel looking hose is AC..under that is a big rubber hose that has a Clamp with a screw visible..that is goes to a Split air tube that eventually ends up connecting to your catalytic converter.
The small rubber hose in the second circle (actuators) runs ALSO to just Under where that Clamp is on the Steel Split air pipe.There should be a nipple on the steel pipe that the hose can attach to.
First Circle: (left one)..the Steel looking hose is AC..under that is a big rubber hose that has a Clamp with a screw visible..that is goes to a Split air tube that eventually ends up connecting to your catalytic converter.
The small rubber hose in the second circle (actuators) runs ALSO to just Under where that Clamp is on the Steel Split air pipe.There should be a nipple on the steel pipe that the hose can attach to.
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so it's for the secondary air system. i was starting to think that. there is a factory air pump on the motor, but idk if the cat had been changed or not, i know the exhaust isn't factory. and im not seeing any induction pre cat or post cat for the secondary air tube.
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My guess is that the small tube is the air tube for the aux actuators, which should connect to a nipple located on a metal tube, which connects to the large hose you have circled. The metal tube should lead from the engine bay under the car, connecting to the main cat roughly in the middle.
The turbos you mention are 350+ HP turbos. The NA drivetrain will not hold up to more than tripling the engine power and these turbos are non-trivial upgrades.
The turbos you mention are 350+ HP turbos. The NA drivetrain will not hold up to more than tripling the engine power and these turbos are non-trivial upgrades.
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