iv'e been reading up on the rotary engine since im buying my first one (86 gxl) tomorrow, it was rebuilt, along with the turbo from a turbo 2. while reading i believe i saw that the gxl was the top model N/A, and that turbo 2 was only given that name because the fb's in japan also came turbo, but that its not common to see that here. i just wanted to know is im correct or i may have misread something. Also, if anyone has any pointers on things you should do or pay particular attention to after an engine rebuild (it currently has 1800 miles on it), ill take all the advice i can get.

 

I am having a little difficulty understanding some of the question.

A rebuilt engine with 1800 miles on it is passed it's break in period and at this point should be treated just like any other engine. Regularly check and change fluids, pay attention to lights and buzzers, etc etc...

 

You may not have posting privileges, but you can still read through the stickys at the top of the 2nd gen. section. I'm pretty sure the answers to both your questions are there...and more.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/
Understand that the turbo motor and drivetrain was different in many ways from the NA versions, not just the addition of the turbo.
I always recommend that new owners change all the fluids ASAP so they have a base-line for maintanence. If your engine was recently rebuilt and your unsure of how long it's been, start with the oil. After that, IMHO cooling is second in importance. Make sure that system is sound. Rotarys are sensitive to overheating. After that, learn about the car for a year or so, study those stickys and search the threads for more information before any performance mods.
My .02.

 

thanks blue, ill be sure to check into that

 

Back in the 80's, most of the sports cars owners were middle-aged people who wanted a combination of performance and luxury, and the GXL was the top NA model in this respect. For those who just wanted performance and not the luxury, the 86-87 Sport, 88 GTU, and 89-90 GTUs were the top NA models.

Yes. The first TII series had a single 2-stage turbo, but the name was derived as you described above.
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/brochu....asp?Number=10
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/brochu....asp?Number=11

Follow the guidance given above by Sgtblue. Keep in mind that your car has a combination of NA and TII parts. You can buy a cheap coolant tester at your local auto parts store. The owner's manual and service manual list the recommended fluid specifications. You can search the 2Gen forum for recommended brands.

Also see Aaron Cake's website for common problems and fixes so that you can go over the car and see what may need fixing. See Aaron's "how to buy" guide first, as this will list the typical problem areas:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/tech1.htm
These two websites are also good resources for fixes and modifications:
http://fc3spro.com/sitemap.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/index.html

 

thanks aviator i appreciate it

 

Please explain how cold plugs manage to keep intake temps down.

 

he already bought me the spark plugs, and its a little hard to start some days, but the sub zero start assist and cold idle function were removed so it has no assistance, so far its been running great. i just need to rewire the e fan to a switch because its not activating through the temp sensor.

 

Because if the plug is cold enough it won't even ignite the air fuel mixture thus the combustion temps get cooled down from all the mass amounts of raw fuel being pushed through and it not even being able to run really... WHICH IN TURN keeps the intake manifold temps down because there is no heat radiating from the engine... duh.

 

Duh? I can't tell if you're serious or not...

Intake temps != combustion temps

A "cold plug" has a shorter insulator nose, which means it dissipates heat more easily. The whole point of using a cold plug is to avoid potential pre-ignition that can come from having combustion chamber temperatures that are too high. A cold plug does not mean incomplete ignition of the gasoline in the chamber under load. A cold plug may have difficultly igniting a mixture at idle when the engine is stone cold, but that's irrelevant.

If your combustion temps are leading to significant increases in the intake manifold temperature, there is a problem with your cooling system, or the exhaust manifold is not properly shielded.

Also, the cooling effect that gasoline has inside the engine is due to the phase change from liquid to gas. The boiling point of gasoline is anywhere from 100º F to 400º F depending on things like ethanol content. When it undergoes this phase change, heat energy is extracted from the surrounding air. This is exactly the same thing that happens with water or methanol injection; gasoline is just not as good at it (lower heat of vaporization). This all happens prior to ignition of the fuel mixture.

 

so safe to say that if the sub zero start assist was removed, cold plugs would be a bad idea? or would holding your idle at about 1500rpms for a minute or two be suffice?

 

lol it was a complete joke.

 

Good! I am relieved.

 

There are quite a few good second gen RX7 buyers guides available online, that will help you sniff out the BS, if the sellers are dishonest.