Hard cold start issue, then warm idle issue.
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From: olympia wa
Hard cold start issue, then warm idle issue.
86 GXL with S5 13b all emissions removed, still has everything for accelerated warm up and thermowax.
Car is very hard to start when cold, will fire and die a few times but will stay running if i hold it at 3k for about 30 secconds then it will idle high on it's own till warm.
Once it's warm it will idle smooth and normal at 800rpms, even after driving it and revving it. Once I turn the car off though it will start right back up no problem, rev to 2200 ish and then idle for a seccond, sputter and die. If I hold the gas at about 1k rpms for a minute it will idle normal on it's own again, but the problem happens everytime I shut it off and try to start it again.
It's not flooding, I've replaced all intake gaskets, and triple checked for vacuum leaks. When it does idle is is very smooth and normal so i don't suspect a vacuum leak.
I've tried adjusting timing, and the idle screw on top of the TB, no luck. Out of ideas.
Car is very hard to start when cold, will fire and die a few times but will stay running if i hold it at 3k for about 30 secconds then it will idle high on it's own till warm.
Once it's warm it will idle smooth and normal at 800rpms, even after driving it and revving it. Once I turn the car off though it will start right back up no problem, rev to 2200 ish and then idle for a seccond, sputter and die. If I hold the gas at about 1k rpms for a minute it will idle normal on it's own again, but the problem happens everytime I shut it off and try to start it again.
It's not flooding, I've replaced all intake gaskets, and triple checked for vacuum leaks. When it does idle is is very smooth and normal so i don't suspect a vacuum leak.
I've tried adjusting timing, and the idle screw on top of the TB, no luck. Out of ideas.
Why do you choose to keep the accelerated warm-up system? Get rid of it...
You say that the emissions have been removed... Does that include the bypass air control valve? Because there is the common misconception that the BACV is part of the emissions control system. A functional BACV will help.
To set timing...
You say that the emissions have been removed... Does that include the bypass air control valve? Because there is the common misconception that the BACV is part of the emissions control system. A functional BACV will help.
To set timing...
The CAS has a flat BLACK cover on it held with two screws.
This cover has a plug in it that can be removed.
When the yellow mark on the pulley is aligned with the front covers pointer and the black cover is screwed in the CAS.........you should be able to see one of the two *pointers* on the guts of the CAS thru said hole in the cover.
CAS rotor will turn on you as you install it. That's a hint. But the body of the CAS can be rotated so the pointer I mentiond can be viewed thru the hole in the cover. Make sense? Yes it does.
Anyway after installing CAS per manual.............check the timing using timing light with the enginE FULLY HOT/WARMED UP.
This cover has a plug in it that can be removed.
When the yellow mark on the pulley is aligned with the front covers pointer and the black cover is screwed in the CAS.........you should be able to see one of the two *pointers* on the guts of the CAS thru said hole in the cover.
CAS rotor will turn on you as you install it. That's a hint. But the body of the CAS can be rotated so the pointer I mentiond can be viewed thru the hole in the cover. Make sense? Yes it does.
Anyway after installing CAS per manual.............check the timing using timing light with the enginE FULLY HOT/WARMED UP.
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From: olympia wa
The BACV is still there, and I can hear it working if i have a friend turn on the heater while turning the steering wheel. It'll click and the idle will go up briefly.
I removed the rats nest, and ACV. Only things I left connected were the OMP metered air lines, injector air bleed lines, and the vacuum lines off the thermowax.
I'd like to keep the accelerated warm up, but if you think it'll help my idle issues I'll removed it and see if it helps.
I'll shoot a video of the issue today.
I removed the rats nest, and ACV. Only things I left connected were the OMP metered air lines, injector air bleed lines, and the vacuum lines off the thermowax.
I'd like to keep the accelerated warm up, but if you think it'll help my idle issues I'll removed it and see if it helps.
I'll shoot a video of the issue today.
I'm not sure that it will necessarily fix your problem... There are quite a few threads debating whether or not the AWS is good for the engine. I've not seen either side be able to provide conclusive evidence. I do know that Mazda completely eliminated it in the RX-8... As for the reason, who knows?
You can start the car in gear (keeping foot on clutch) to bypass the AWS. Or you can simply unplug it, and try starting the car out of gear. (Neutral)
You can start the car in gear (keeping foot on clutch) to bypass the AWS. Or you can simply unplug it, and try starting the car out of gear. (Neutral)
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From: olympia wa
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF0oLzwXcao
That video shows what it does while hot, I can keep it running with pedal input though.
That video shows what it does while hot, I can keep it running with pedal input though.
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From: Charlotte
My first guess would have been vacuum leak. Next I would check fuel system for proper delivery. Especially after removing emissions parts. I had similar problem on Honda it was MAP sensor. I am new to rotary and trying to offer some hopefully helpful advice.
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