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fuel economy for rotary

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Old 12-20-08, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Something is wrong with you car or the RTek. Maybe one of the people involved with that project will chime in.

I must point out that an RTek is not a standalone. It's a programmable stock ECU.

I can't believe I'm even still involving myself with this, but clearly there is something wrong with your testing methodology. I've realized now that whether you believe the injectors cut or not is irrelevant.

You drove for half an hour and used 1/4 tank of fuel? There is clearly something wrong with that car. My bridgeport gets better fuel economy. I suspect that the RTek is not giving actual duty cycle numbers, but only those it pulls from the map at that load point. If you were to put a duty cycle meter on the actual injectors, and the car is working properly, then you will see the duty cycle fall to zero.

Note that you will not get decel fuel cut if your TPS is not adjusted properly or unplugged.

I would happily fully demonstrate decel fuel cut in my car and post the video here, but there's 12 inches of snow on the ground and it's in storage.

This will be my last post on the subject. I need to pick my battles, and clearly I've picked the wrong one.
OK! maybe I exaggerated on the fuel a little bit or maybe we were driving longer than half hour, also his car is turbocharged, and it is winter here don't forget, besides I wasn't focusing on how much fuel it will use but on the actual injection, the point is that I did tested it and as I said I will do more tests on other cars including my own ( stock )car as well.

And I believe I asked a question before, and I am going to ask you specifically, again > did you actually test it your self? Or you just know a guy who knows a guy who knows this is true?? Back your self up with more than just an article from
"encyclopedia.com" or whatever!!!

Last edited by -CON-; 12-20-08 at 04:22 PM.
Old 12-21-08, 04:06 PM
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DId anyone mention that hydrogen generator thingy? I want to try to make one so bad.
Old 12-21-08, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by -CON-
Thanks guys for all your advise! I appreciate that even though it doesn't cheers me up, doe to the fact that I just have to compromise.

But there was one thing I was gonna ask, > what if somehow I could increase the temperature in a gasoline supply line ( heat it up or what ever ). The idea here is that if the gasoline will be hot or warm it'll evaporate better when it is sprayed in the combustion chamber than cold gasoline, so I am thinking if it will evaporate better then it may burn better and may give better low rpm torque, witch may increase the fuel economy.

What do you guys think of that idea? Does it makes sense or it's just stupid?
If you're having problems with the gas not properly atomizing due to the outside air temperature, the solution should always be to heat up the incoming intake air, not the gasoline. Heating gas is always dangerous! Manufacturers (of all cars) have taken care of this problem by supplying a hot-air duct from the exhaust manifold to the air filter for normally-aspirated engines; turbo's normally don't have problems with having enough heat in the engine compartment to cause this. That being said, there is usually a butterfly valve in that duct to shut off the flow of hot air once the engine reaches a certain temperature (and thus doesn't need the additional heated air). If you have such a system, check the valve is able to open and close with out restriction.
However, if this is strictly an idea to help fully combust the air-fuel mixture, the best practice is to simply make sure the engine is tuned properly, unrestricted air filter, that sort of thing.
Old 12-22-08, 03:58 AM
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I know from tuning standalones that most of them cut all fuel under decel as long as you enable that option.

If you want to boost your fuels economy you could install a megasquirt. The problem is you're looking at $400-$700 depending on what all you need to buy and then you will need to learn to tune it. I'm not sure what the stock afrs are but I've read they are very rich for emmisions. The reason for this is that a rotary runs very hot, which creates high nox readings. Extra fuel helps cool down the engine reducing these reading. Using a standalone will allow you to lean it out. You should not only gain MPG but also some power. Granted it'll take a long time to recoupe the investment.
Old 12-22-08, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by -CON-
And I believe I asked a question before, and I am going to ask you specifically, again > did you actually test it your self? Or you just know a guy who knows a guy who knows this is true?? Back your self up with more than just an article from
"encyclopedia.com" or whatever!!!
I've tested this myself. I have a considerable amount of experience as I've been messing with and tuning RX-7s since I was 18.

I don't need to back myself up. Read any EFI manual and there's my backup.

Seriously, and I don't mean to be insulting by this, but from my perspective this is like someone saying that liquid water doesn't feel wet.

You mentioned you are going to Megasquirt your car. Well, when you start learning about the 'Squirt and EFI, you'll learn these basics pretty quickly.

Originally Posted by junito1
DId anyone mention that hydrogen generator thingy? I want to try to make one so bad.
Massive waste of time and money. It's a scam.

http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7606
Old 12-22-08, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by junito1
DId anyone mention that hydrogen generator thingy? I want to try to make one so bad.
I did make one actually, but it didn't workout good maybe I didn't do it properly, it was producing bobbles very slowly, but if I would fire 'em up they would explode, it was working better on the battery charger than the battery. To make a successful one the one like they show on you tube (or whatever ) I think you need to run power on the right frequency. But yeah the one I made was real useless! It was a waste of time and money for me !!

Last edited by -CON-; 12-22-08 at 08:32 PM.
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