JuliANSR

I have now removed and rebuilt my motor. It lost the oil control rings and eventually they just got BAD. I used an Atkins kit. I have a car that starts every time without trouble if I use the cut switch to shut off. Great advice to have that. At the moment I have no CEL or other clues.

I get solid sequential puffs using the poor mans test and have a piston gauge I will try asap...It will start right away and will idle ok 750rmps and up. Set at 1500 in the hard throttle stop. Seemingly has awfully throttle response. I stabbed the CAS using the top off, mark the spur method. Notably there were both the oem cut in marks in the main pulley but also white paint marks in the front ac/ps pulley. They're offset from each other about 30-60 degrees. Spark is strong in any case. Runs differently but not much differently with TPS set or unplugged. If anything maybe runs better without it seems to maybe run less rich...less smoke from the tailpipe.

My questions...
1. How driveable is a fresh rebuild or how long should I be experiencing breakin?! Mine want to bog down heavily when slowly driving around.It seemed to use about 5 gallons of gas in about 2 hours at 1500rpm wwhich seems like a ton for basically idling, but I have NO clue what's normal. Especially on rebuild. I feel like it should be way more driveable than it is, but I'm posting in the newbie forums for a reason.

2. I added a fuel cut switch and when I use it to shut down my RPMs increase... jump way up to 4500 and sit there 10aeconds or more...usually if I push the gas pedal then it will die right away, then key off. Is that normal? or should I be looking at the FPr/pressure/ injectors?!during this period all stumbling and **** stops and the whole car smooths out. Maybe just rpm, maybe being overfuelled?!

Maybe it's just fucked, and I misfit a side seal or I'm running one rotor( pulling leading coil from either rotor result in engine wanting to die right away. So they're both doing SOMETHINg..so I'm hoping for something else. As stated I'll test compression today again but it seems to want to run and makes great exhaust.


1990 fc vert.
Free beer for local fender leaners who know their 7s.

WondrousBread

I can't address your other problems, but where exactly did you add the fuel cut switch? Mine is connected to the fuel pump, and when I flip it my car dies almost immediately. The loss of fuel pressure should cause the car to die very quickly, not rev higher.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

I don't know who told you a fuel cut switch was good advice, but it's not. It's a bandaid for issues you should have addressed while the engine was being overhauled. And it looks like now some of those issues may have worsened, or are at least compounding your issue.

Anyway, sounds like the car is running PIG rich.

JuliANSR

I only added the switch yesterday because the rebuild was flooding on shutdown. It would start hot or cold. Never needed it before: and it seems to a advised in some rebuild notes. It's on the relay under the dash.

I'm thinking rich too. Should die as noted.

Prior to cut switch I pulled injector rails and they only spurt when asked, but maybe too much flow or high pressure.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

compression test results would be nice

but i suspect you are running on one rotor, either due to compression or due to a faulty primary injector clip.

JuliANSR

. Piston tester showing 90 on all faces front and back. Even bounces across the board. Back plug was basically sootted up and was new... and front plug was half black and half wet. Literally opposing fingers were clean or black

Verified timing with the flywheel method.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

then you may have a sticking injector, have you had them serviced?

JuliANSR

No, I did replace the seals and rubber but didn't have them flow tested. Looks like replacement or testing is next though!

Thanks for the advice.

JuliANSR

just want to follow up. so many thread end up inconclusive and i hope this wont become one.

its not the injectors or their wiring. i bought reman injectors and the issues are the same. NOID light shows they are doing their jobs electrically and correct voltage/continuity at ECU pins, etc.

so its probably the integrated FPR on the secondary fuel rail. I keep thinking back to how the car will run both better and that the rpms increase when i drop the rail pressure by killing the pump. If my injectors were staying open, the overfuelling issue would probably still be there even at normal (lower) fuel pressure. I.E. I think it would still run like crap. Instead it's butter smooth.
video of this happening:




i have done some searching but its hard to tell what is truth and what is armchair BS. especially on the s5 NA...
if i wanted turbo info there are some options and good well-spoken threads!

questions:

0: can i hit it with a hammer or compressed air to try and fix it?
1: will an s4 na or tii rail work for me? i could then replace the screw on fpr if that one is junk.
2: is modifying the s5 rail a simple/better option? then using aeromotive FPR?


Since i just blew some money on injectors, i'm needing to keep this simple and under 150$ if i can
Any options i'm not considering?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

try checking the actual fuel pressure with a gauge to see where it is at.

JuliANSR

36psi at 'idle' between pump and rails. seemed to take a while to build pressure on the gauge but I think that was the gauge itself or maybe somehow injector is still being held open. 36 is close to spec but remember reading it's supposed to be a bit lower at idle..mid 20's? Removing vac line at the FPR made no change.

i also tried to smoke test the intake for vac leaks again...double checking a lot things now...but it just came out of my air box...maybe that method isn't the best for this car. I need more gas to run it so can try those methods for good measure.

Its still starting quite happily enough, in the video when it's not being bogged down its sounding pretty good. considered pulling some sensors to see if it's bad 02 reading or otherwise. Ditto testing my spare ecu but it's not rtek so it'll toss an OMP code.

feel like it's something asinine but I've been too deep to have perspective. Logic keeps pointing me to injector held open.

Thanks

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

a pinched injector signal wire would cause an injector to hang open and a noid light would not show it unless you probed it after the problem in the harness.

JuliANSR

Not my car in image but I think this ls my screwup. Please confirm my logic? When I removed the OMP I capped all
Of these and the nipple on the the LIM.

Is the 4the vac line up going to LIM the vacuum for the primary air bleeds? My foolishness originally though this was a closed vac loop just for OMP. Probably I am wrong, and this is keeping my fuel from atomizing?

JuliANSR

That was it