Mitchigator

ok guys so since i got my 1986 na 7 ive been having a couple issues
ive been doing a lot of reading on these things and i still cant get the exact answer im looking for

#1 my temp gauge sits at a little under to about half when the engine is warmed up
it does not go any higher unless the ac is on
but i read my gauge is suppose to sit at no more than a quarter

i want to know if my engine is running too hot and if so what kind of damage am i looking at
i replaced the rad cap and thermostat already it opens at 180

#2 the damned add coolant light keeps coming on but the coolant is completely full
there is no buzzer though
it always comes on when im idling for a bit
it flashes on and off or sometimes will come on if i take a corner or slow down or stop but it rarely comes on when im doin over thirty
could it possibly be the sensor thats on the top of the radiatior (i believe thats the right one) is bad
(note: the first like three days after i replaced my thermostat the add coolant light did not come on at all)

#3 when i was a little low on coolant the reservoir stayed completely full but when i pull the pressure release lever on my rad cap it seems to move it all around just fine so i dont think there is a clog


guys any help would be much appreciated

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

1/4 of the way up the gauge is about 180 F, and 1/2 way is about 200 F. But 200 F really isn't that hot; especially during summer. The factory auxiliary e-fan that came on automatic and turbo models doesn't even kick on until 207 F, and the thermostat doesn't fully open until 203 F. The engine isn't in danger unless you start seeing the gauge nearing the top. It will peg somewhere around 240 F. I've measured these values with my Rtek up to the 3/4 mark, and that was 220 F (my e-fan controller failed). The S4 gauge is linear, so it's easy to estimate the temps from position.

Bleed any air out of the system via the screw on the top/side of the radiator. You can also do this while the engine is running (cold only!), and switch the heater on to clear any air that may get trapped in the core.

Mitchigator

dumb question but to bleed it do i just unscrew it and drain some or??

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Loosen the screw enough for air to escape, then add some coolant at the water pump housing until the level settles and you stop seeing bubbles. Repeat until coolant starts to drip out past the screw & the level stays topped off.

Mitchigator

ya man i actually popped my hood and realized i did that last time i filled it but apparently not good enough
i did it again right after i read your message earlier and it worked! no more stupid light!! haha

thanks a lot thats been buggin the crap outta me

Mitchigator

alright so i bled my coolant a couple times
every time it works for about two days then by the third day the add coolant light starts coming on again and i pop my hood and my overflow tank is completely full and my rad is low

for some reason it is not taking the coolant and putting it back in the radiator

any ideas??? i have a new thermostat and rad cap

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

What pressure rating is written on the cap? Stock is 12 psi I think. You could also check that the line to the overflow tank is not brittle/damaged, which could cause a loss of vacuum once the cap opens up and attempts to reclaim the coolant. The short piece of tubing inside the tank (that gets submerged) also needs to have a tight seal.