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Hi everyone, hopefully you all can help me get to the bottom of this. A couple months ago this issue started where when I turned me key past accessory all the power in the car would cut. Then I'd have to run out and reconnect the battery and most of the time it fire right up no problem. However as time progressed the problem got worse and worse. I'd have to run back two or three times before it start. Eventually I got fed up with it and replaced all the fuses in the engine bay believing the main fuse to be my issue. While I was in there I replaces the rest because why not. Sure enough this solved the problem and I didn't have any problems for quite some time. Then one day I came out to start it and... nothing. No matter what I do I can't get it start. No it's to the point where I can't turn to accessory or all the power is cut. I was wondering if any one has experienced this before and had some advice or could point me in the right direction to another thread. Thanks everyone.
It sounds like an electrical issue with your ignition cylinder/switch. I would try to come up with a decent used replacement. Atkins Rotary will probably have new ones, but unless you are made of $$, I would go used. Or you can put in a Starter button and switch panel (like in racecars), and essentially try to bypass the ignition switch that is giving you trouble. You could put ign power and fuel pump on the panel, that might be more work, but it could be cheaper than a stock replacement and make the car cooler at the same time.
The re-wiring should be pretty simple, whatever used to get power from the key switch, move to panel. It should be pretty easy.
Electrical issues suck. I like electricals when im wiring a gauge to a sender or a panel and switches.
I hate diagnosing electricals though, may be time to bust out the multimeter and alligator clamps, and start testing things.
No start issues are the worst. Really hope you find a fix
This is an example, I would use a nicer panel in a street car. This is just an ebay panel in a cheap 4cyl circle track car. Also I didnt completely gut the key, my key still sends power to coils,ecu and fuel pump for now. I just wired a fan and the starter for now.
Thanks for the response. You're probably spot on about it being the ignition switch/cylinder. It seems to be the most logical answer. I see Atkins has the switch available 45.50. Worth a shot either way. Ill break out the multimeter as well and see what answers i come up with. If worse comes to worse I'll make a switch panel and that'll be it hopefully.
05-08-18, 07:29 PM
