FC delete emissions/start problem
02-26-10, 09:59 PM
#1
aaron o
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FC delete emissions/start problem
I am planning on removing all of the emissions equipment on my 1986 GXL NA. I currently have a full racing beat exhaust and the presilencer has the tube to actuate the 6th ports. I also have the air pump removed and blocked off. I have instructions from Rotary Resurection on how to remove the emissions. Have any of you ever done this?
My car has always ran great until this fall and now when the engine is cold it cranks longer than it used to. It still always starts, but something has changed, I noticed that one of the selonoids (one of those with 4 with different colored plugs)on top of the engine that has something to do with vacuum is broken. Could this be my problem and will removing all of this help to solve my problem?
While I have the intake off I want to do the fuel pulsation dampner update that is also on the rotary revolution website. I have heard that if it malfunctions it can cause a fuel leak issue and therefor a fire. Is this worth my while?
Also I read on the Rotary Rev. website about since myexhaust is more free flowing than stock and I dont have an air pump that my 6 ports might not be being actuated. Is this true? If so Iwant to do the update on Rot. Rev.s website where you put in a MDS tach and pill then use that to activate a small air compressor that will provide pressure to open the ports.
Thats a lot of questions, but I want to make my RX starting problem go away and clean up the engine compartment by deleteing the emissions. There is no emissions check in my area so that is not a concern, I just want added dependability, ease of service, and maybe some performance. Any input would be much appreciated, so please educate me!
My car has always ran great until this fall and now when the engine is cold it cranks longer than it used to. It still always starts, but something has changed, I noticed that one of the selonoids (one of those with 4 with different colored plugs)on top of the engine that has something to do with vacuum is broken. Could this be my problem and will removing all of this help to solve my problem?
While I have the intake off I want to do the fuel pulsation dampner update that is also on the rotary revolution website. I have heard that if it malfunctions it can cause a fuel leak issue and therefor a fire. Is this worth my while?
Also I read on the Rotary Rev. website about since myexhaust is more free flowing than stock and I dont have an air pump that my 6 ports might not be being actuated. Is this true? If so Iwant to do the update on Rot. Rev.s website where you put in a MDS tach and pill then use that to activate a small air compressor that will provide pressure to open the ports.
Thats a lot of questions, but I want to make my RX starting problem go away and clean up the engine compartment by deleteing the emissions. There is no emissions check in my area so that is not a concern, I just want added dependability, ease of service, and maybe some performance. Any input would be much appreciated, so please educate me!
02-27-10, 01:41 PM
#2
1) You'll find many threads on emissions removal. Tons of people do it.
2) Which solenoid is broken? 3 of them are emissions related, and one is for the fuel pressure regulator (FPR).
3) Replace the PD if it is leaking. I wouldn't suggest replacing it with a banjo bolt.
4) Your RB presilencer should still allow the ports to open properly. To test, you can put a little grease on the actuator rods, go for a drive, then come back to see if they moved. The RPM switch method works well (I've done it), but electric air pumps can overheat. I used the stock air pump as an air source.
2) Which solenoid is broken? 3 of them are emissions related, and one is for the fuel pressure regulator (FPR).
3) Replace the PD if it is leaking. I wouldn't suggest replacing it with a banjo bolt.
4) Your RB presilencer should still allow the ports to open properly. To test, you can put a little grease on the actuator rods, go for a drive, then come back to see if they moved. The RPM switch method works well (I've done it), but electric air pumps can overheat. I used the stock air pump as an air source.
03-01-10, 12:35 PM
#3
aaron o
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1)Hey that is great that lots of people do this, I really want to get rid of all of the emissions junk!
2)The solenoid closest to the front of the car that has a plug which is blue in color is broken, if this is emissions then it will be coming off when i do the delete right?
3)I dont yet know if my PD is leaking but I can just about garuntee it is original. I have done some more reading on this and have heard that there may be some aftermarket replacements out there. What would you recomend? If there is any danger I want it fixed.
4)I will test my actuator rods to see if they are opening, if they are then I am fine with my current setup, of no air pump and racing beat silencer with a tube. But if this setup is not working then you would recomend using the air pump as my air source to actuate the valves.
So does that mean I would re-install the air pump and hook it back up to my engine like original? or could I just run a little line over to the actuaters? If you used the air pump which is belt driven and follows the engine rpm why did you need an rpm switch?
2)The solenoid closest to the front of the car that has a plug which is blue in color is broken, if this is emissions then it will be coming off when i do the delete right?
3)I dont yet know if my PD is leaking but I can just about garuntee it is original. I have done some more reading on this and have heard that there may be some aftermarket replacements out there. What would you recomend? If there is any danger I want it fixed.
4)I will test my actuator rods to see if they are opening, if they are then I am fine with my current setup, of no air pump and racing beat silencer with a tube. But if this setup is not working then you would recomend using the air pump as my air source to actuate the valves.
So does that mean I would re-install the air pump and hook it back up to my engine like original? or could I just run a little line over to the actuaters? If you used the air pump which is belt driven and follows the engine rpm why did you need an rpm switch?
03-01-10, 02:14 PM
#4
The solenoid w/ the blue plug is for the relief valve in the ACV, which is purely emissions related. It dumps air from the air pump after 3500 RPM.
You would know if the PD were leaking. The raw fuel smell would make it obvious. If you can find an aftermarket PD that will fit the rail, go with that. I think a new OEM one goes for something like $140.
The aux. port actuators only require about 2psi to open. Without an RPM switch controlling a solenoid, the actuators would be forced open well below the 3800 RPM mark. Opening them too early yields a big loss of low-end torque. I had the air pump hooked up along with the ACV. A fitting can be tapped into the output of the air pump, which allows just enough air to make it to the actuators, but still allows the majority to be dumped out through the ACV. If you don't have a dump of some kind, the air pump will either blow off your hose or burst the diaphrams in the actuators. I found that the full ~3/4" size of the ACV dump path was dropping pressure too much, so I just introduced a restriction into the line. About a 1/4" opening was enough to keep the pressure high, but not too high.
You would know if the PD were leaking. The raw fuel smell would make it obvious. If you can find an aftermarket PD that will fit the rail, go with that. I think a new OEM one goes for something like $140.
The aux. port actuators only require about 2psi to open. Without an RPM switch controlling a solenoid, the actuators would be forced open well below the 3800 RPM mark. Opening them too early yields a big loss of low-end torque. I had the air pump hooked up along with the ACV. A fitting can be tapped into the output of the air pump, which allows just enough air to make it to the actuators, but still allows the majority to be dumped out through the ACV. If you don't have a dump of some kind, the air pump will either blow off your hose or burst the diaphrams in the actuators. I found that the full ~3/4" size of the ACV dump path was dropping pressure too much, so I just introduced a restriction into the line. About a 1/4" opening was enough to keep the pressure high, but not too high.
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