Twables

Hello,

So I had followed this guide How To Add Daytime Running Lights using the toggle switch method. It seemed to have worked fine, until I had the toggle on and used the headlight dial at the same time.

The headlights came up and on, until small amount of smoke leaked from the dash by the stock light switch dial. As a result, my headlight switch will not flip the lights up, nor will it turn them on. The amber front and side marker lights will light up on the first turn of the dial, but turn off on the second turn More recently I found out my dash lights don't work anymore either, including the gear illumination. Yes, I've tried adjusting the dimmer switch.
The cigarette outlet may also not be working.

Here's what does work...
I can Use the flip up control to raise the headlights, and use the aftermarket toggle to manually turn on the headlights (with headlights both up and down). I get both low and high beam using the turn signal flicker, as I normally would.

It's not quite the outcome I was hoping for. Any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

insightful

the headlight switch is already barely capable of the job, adding more load to it was the worst idea ever.

now you need a new switch, possibly new harness too, as well as remove the additional load from it and put it on it's own separate power source.

littlebit421

BURN BABY BURN Even without the extra load one of the common failures on the fc is the head lamp and wiper switches and they sometimes burn up the harness with it, not a very difficult job. Check this out, it is a less expensive alternative, I purchased a couple items with good results.

Electronics : 13B Etc - Mazda RX-7 Parts And More

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

The problem with the stock switch is that current runs through it and supplies the headlights with power.
Now,adding extra lighting to the switch will fry that switch...harness too in some cases.
One way IF you want to run DTRL is to hook it up separately..or you can run DTRL's on low...like fog lights and have a Relay to supply the main voltage to the DTRL's but have the same circuit to feed the LO beams.
You can also hook the DTRL's to the ignition and have them come on when the car is on,and you leave the Headlight switch alone...Use a relay triggered by the ignition and 12volts to the DTRL's.

Oh..answer to the question posted..you need a new switch and sub harness.

WondrousBread

Once you get a new switch and harness, to ensure it doesn't happen again you can relay it or do what Styx said above. My running lights are wired such that when the key is to ignition they are active, using a relay and the switched +12V source from the six pin connector by the leading coils (black and white wire, I believe). Use that wire to activate the relay, and power the lights straight from the battery.

It is worth noting that I am using LED running lights I made that are behind my FTP lenses, to avoid having to power the halide headlights all the time. However, if you want to use the stock headlights as running lights, the process is the same. I'm not sure if the stock switch switched ground or power though, so you'll have to check that out.

Twables

Thanks for the replies guys. It's good to have solid knowledge on how to fix this mess up.
I will most likely try to return it to a stock function for now, as it was meant to be a small project just for fun.
Luckily I happen to have a spare dash with all its component from another old project.

I've seen a few of the LED setups, and it seems to be the way to go, but maybe in the future.

Thank you for the link, Littlebit421. I'm going to keep that link handy in case I muck up my wires again.

Thanks again guys. Very very helpful!