Hello,
I purchased a pettit racing fan switch 185°f for my fd but would not fit on the side of my thermostat housing as the instructions said (it interfered with my air pump). I tried buying a fc fan switch as I read a form it's plug and play. I copied and pasted the part number (PN41-18-840) from the form but it sent me to a fc coolant temp sensor. It was late at night and I didn't pay attention to what part I ordered untill the next day and now I'm just frustrated. I'm guessing the fc fan switch is discontinued because I can not find one for sale online. I'm almost $250 down the drain on sensors and I just wanted to see if anyone can please point me in the right direction. I live in arizona and the temp is getting close to 95°f and I can't run my car without it staying at 220°f. I have an apexi ecu and my rpms keep fluctuating at idle to try and keep the motor cool. Driving in first gear is not fun as the rpms drop and rise while driving. My motor will definitely blow if i drive when it hits 100-115°f in the summer. I'm on the edge of just buying chipsmotorsports cooling solution for the rx7fd. Thank you for your time.

 

the fan switch mod does not work with aftermarket ecus. that is a STOCK ecu mod. the power fc has the ability to set the fans to come on whenever you want for either speed. you will need datalogit to set these values or find a tuner with one.

it sounds like you have more than a cooling issue going on. you need to take your car somewhere to be properly diagnosed and tuned apparently

 

I just got it tuned at umi tuning, car is running great besides my Temps getting hot and now my idle issues. I know my idle control valve is on the way out because when i push the clutch in, the rpms drop to 700 and want's to stall out. Another symptom of it failing is when the car is below temp, the idle fluctuates from 1000 to 1100. The fluctuation i experience at above temp is caused by the apexi, they're not the same. It also made a noise today when I turned my motor off but I got a new idle control valve on the way. I'll bleed my cooling system and see if that does anything. I'm not leaking any liquids, and there is no pressure leaks as I replaced the caps. My fans are definitely turning on as I can hear them but it doesn't do a difference. It only started running hot once it started to get hot. How does the air separator work? Am i supposed to fill it with coolant or should it be empty? I haven't messed with it since i got the car. It was running cool in the winter but that's how it should be. I'm just at a stand still, love the car to death but just can't get it to run right.

 

Your 700rpm almost stalling issue isn't necessarily your iacv. That's not a definitive symptom. That could very easily be fixed with an adjustment in the power fc. You have another underlying issue with why your car is running so hot. Even here in Florida on the hottest and most humid of days in stop and go traffic, a stock car on a power fc doesn't have the problem you're describing.

What you're describing is a mechanical issue. Setting your fans to come on sooner may help but it won't fix whatever the real problem is. Based on how you're describing the situation, you need to take your car somewhere to be properly diagnosed.

 

The S5 FC fan switch that I bought prior to a PFC seems to working just fine with fan initiation at 95 C. Higher speeds as temp increases.

 

I'm bringing this thread back from the grave to warn anyone who'd buy the FC fan switch from Pettit racing to not do so. It's the wrong thread dimension (appears to be about 3/8"BSP, when it should be m16s1.5 from testing with calipers on it), and it will absolutely not fit. If you force it, it'll damage the threads.

 

Correct... the thermoswitch thread pitch is m16x1.5 and it's where we install water temp sensors for aftermarket gauges. You can get an adapter to 1/8npt. Makes for a VERY clean install so you don't have to cut your radiator hose