I did some searching around the forums but couldn't find a consolidated answer to this question.

I'm in the middle of a complete teardown and rebuild of my 13B-REW (previous owner blew an apex seal), and I'm wondering what parts (gaskets, hoses, clips, etc...) should generally be replaced when doing this kind of work. The car is a 93 touring FD and has 110k on it, but the motor should only have 3-4k. I think I have a pretty good handle on what to replace when rebuilding the motor (apex seals, side seals, corner seals, oil control rings, etc...), but I was wondering what else typically needs replacement.

I have heard that the oil lines to and from the oil metering pump should be replaced. I'm probably going to do a complete hose job on the rats nests. I'm running the 99 spec stock twins. Should I send my stock injectors in for cleaning? What else needs to be inspected and potentially replaced?

Thanks a bunch for any potential help!

 

assuming you're not piecing your own rebuild kit together, then seals, gaskets, springs, etc. already come with it, so common sense would dictate replacement even if the remaining ones are in spec. assuming they were all replaced 4,000 miles ago, it does seem like a waste, but considering at least half of the engine grenaded, you have to wonder. personally, I know i'm unlucky so I try not to gamble.

if you're piecing a kit together, then see what you need after disassembly, cleaning and measuring, then proceed accordingly.

major hoses (coolant-related) should be on a schedule, so if you don't have a reliable maintenance history to work with, then go ahead and replace them. mechanically, I tend not to trust most things with a car that's new to me. given the REW's complexity, I also don't think you can lose in the long run if you go ahead replace the vacuum hoses.

now having said a mouthful, just keep in mind I own a grand total of one REW and I don't have an FD, so think about what I've said, but don't act until you get a more experienced point of view.

good luck.

 

As mentioned above, if you get an OEM gasket and seal 'kit' (which I personally recommend) then use that... BUT WITH ONE EXCEPTION. Do NOT use the oil pan gasket. Use a quality gasket maker like "THE RIGHT STUFF or HONDABOND. I don't know why they still include that gasket, I don't think the company that does Mazda's remans even uses it. Be sure to clean all old silicone from the pan bolt holes and have the mating surfaces hospital clean and oil-free and follow the gasket maker's instructions. I absolutely recommend an oil pan brace for a leak-free pan. Search in the 3rd Gen. Section for more info on that.
*Silicone hose replacement is an absolute. Be VERY careful removing the OEM rubber ones. The heat makes them stick while making those plastic solenoid nipples fragile. And be sure to use zip-ties on those lines that see pressure. A colored hose routing diagram should be available under your hood or from any number of sources on this forum.
*Consider replacing ALL coolant hoses, including/especially the turbo coolant lines. They tend to bloat and weaken with the heat. Coolant WILL burn if it gets hot enough. Turbos get hot enough...enough said?
*Look up and PM a member here named DaleClark. He offers a set of replacement check valves that are superior to the OEM ones in many ways... and they're cheap.
*YES, pull your injectors and have them cleaned and flow-tested. Just try to time it to minimize the time they sit on the shelf afterwards.
*A great time to clean the engine harness of all the brittle insulation and do a re-wrap. I like the self-fusing silicone 'tape'.
*Consider a new coil harness if your's doesn't look new already.
*The OEM plastic OMP lines do get brittle with age. Since you've disturbed them, I personally suggest replacing them with stainless lines available from any number of vendors. The stainless ones aren't pre-bent and a little PITA to route, but worth it...again IMO. Most come with new copper crush washers for both ends. While your at it, be sure to get a new 'O' ring for the OMP if it doesn't come in your gasket 'kit'.
*Be sure to have enough assembly lube on-hand, along with low-temp (silver) and high-temp (copper) anti-seize, some vaseline and lock-tite. Personal preference, but I like using hylomar to hold the coolant seals in place during assembly.
*You'll be dealing with varying degrees of carbon. I use old hard seals to carefully scrap the old seal grooves clean. I also gloved up and used EASYOFF oven cleaner and a scrub pad, then into a hot water utility sink before liberallly spraying with WD-40 (repeat as needed) to get rotors really clean.
*Make sure the oil feed and return lines are clear in the twins. The exhaust manifold and turbo gaskets are stupidly expensive, but an exhaust leak caused by re-using the old ones is a huge PITA too. Search in the 3rd Gen. Section for threads with other opinions. Your call.
* If you have a good used set of plugs, I would use them for initial start-up. If it's like mine, it'll smoke enough to hide a battleship for a few minutes. After all that burns off, then stick a new set of plugs in. If the plug wires are original to the car, I'd replace them too.

Damn it I'm 'wordy'. Hopefully it's not over-load...but your question was pretty open-ended.

 

Thanks for the info so far; it has been really helpful! If anyone else has thoughts please chime in.

Sgtblue, you definitely weren't too "wordy", haha. I can use all the info I can get - thanks for the help!