blujRX7

Throughout the journey of my 83 GSL Limited Edition restoration process, Today I had replaced a shudder value with some much needed help. Now the car hasn't been crank today since I damaged my idle compensator pipe on the rats nest and have JB weld on it drying since its one of the big vacuum leaks I can find so far. Now I have already downloaded my FSM on my 83 months ago thanks to this site and the help to troubleshoot a lot of issues before I post anything. So this is my 1st post here.

To stay on topic here are this electrical issues I encountered so far.

Headlights:
(NOTE:I am installing the radio for planning purposes only, I will explain more and show on youtube later on in the future when I reach that stage of the restore process)

Happened about 4 or 5 months ago while testing out a new head unit I brought for the 7. After installing the unit everything's OK till the cigarette wire touched the headlight over ride switch under the radio bezel. It smOKed and popped a fuse. Installed a new one, nothing worked till I unplugged the radio from the harness. Once I plugged it back in, everything worked fine. I think 2 months later, I was working on the engine where it did it again. This time they won't pop up. UnhoOKed the radio and everything is good and left it out this time since I did all the testing I needed on the unit a other equipment. Next day during that weekend, the headlights popped up but not going down. It only moved till I jiggled the fusible links and during each jiggle, it moved till I had they got down completely. So I think its either the links is having a problem, a bad ground somewhere (found plenty of them after found out the last owner hacked the wires in many places), or there is a short somewhere starting from the dash area.
At first I read here it could be dirty connectors so I sprayed electrical cleaner in the column, override switch, connectors on both motors under the hood, fusible links and I got my lights back but no pop up or down motion happening yet. Of course all this done with the battery not connected.

Dash:
Just happened today 11/21 while installing the shutter value, I was trying to find a bad ground for those headlights, I turned on the headlights to see if they go down, ( I manually popped them up) I don't have any dash lights on but the high beam symbol. I read here from peejays post about these bullet style connectors that is red/blue or red/another color. I noted that he said BOTH are the same colors. I got red/blue but the female end is black I believe. My helper did connected the two together without thought this afternoon and I think now I have to chunk more money to get a dimmer if needed. I'm not sure if that's even the cause for the fact, not only the color is different but the last owner added a lot of these bullet style connectors for her audio setup which isn't the cleanest, not to sound mean since she is thoughtful of me on selling the car to me 3 years prior but her audio and cut harness wires are everywhere and not making sense to me right now.
While I read the FSM and dig for another light issue, is there any other suggestions I need to loOK up or ideas I can try. Keep in mind I'm a computer programmer and technician, not much of a electrician to understand the FSM fully but enough to think. Plus I have a very limited budget and time than most people with a job but overall the other lights work no more than needed a new set of headlights since the high beams are out. And I will post my engine questions soon enough if I can't find anything or got a non redundant or asked question. Thank you.

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

My headlight problem was solved by making my own fusible links and replacing all 3 on my 85 gs.

es743u

Im having some problems as well in the ignition when i turn the key off an remove it the car doesnt shut off. Replaced the switch with no help.

blujRX7

Hey dankekong

Please do tell like, Is there a certain gage wire used on your own setup?

What are the connectors that was used installed to each wire to fit in the fusible link block slots itself? Example: Original ones or something different to fit

Recently I replaced a worn ground wire connector for the passenger side headlight motor on that screws into the body before thanksgiving. I hoped it worked but no go. The type of connector I used is a single round eye, similar the original but it was small and tight. I believe its a No.3 size and had to widen it up to fit properly. But with your plan that may help since the last thing I was checking when the headlight went down on their own power last was the links itself.

blujRX7

Now thats a new one there. I know normally the switch is the issue there when that happens and that is the fix. I think its still the switch but something else that needs to done or replaced along with the switch unless the mechanic missed something or the 1st gen has a different design on the switch also. But I would figure its designed just like any other Japanese vehicle of the time.

I think replacing the switch may helped the mechanical part but not the electrical part and when I sprayed connector contact cleaner on all connectors on my steering column, I got my headlights back going but no pop up action. I wonder, did you shut it off by disconnecting the battery?

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

I went to my local napa and picked up some different wire and some 'bullet?' connectors maybe. They are the same kind as the factory ones...plug into the fuse box for the headlights. Take your time and do it right....dont want them coming loose...i would replace all 3. Use similar gauge wire...nothing thinner

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

As for the ignition issue...it still has to be the switch...or something very closely related....connectors for the switch or the cylinder for the key maybe

blujRX7

New UPDATES!

Haven't done too much since the winter in the east coast was really out here this year so no work till spring time or a break into spring or fall modes during winter. (If you are in or been to NC you know exactly what I mean on that.) Anyway, I found the problem with my headlights are on the fusible links. With better study time on the FSM I had been pulling the middle fusible link which is main link. I just used the bottom one and connected it to the top one and clap! the headlights finally closed on their own. So dankekong I will do what I can do on finding replacements on all 3 since the top one is no good. The fabric is broken but its very hard to see and for some odd reason I didn't feel it well enough to realize the wire is gone compared to the other 2. If I can't find the right links then I will make my own as mentioned earlier.

To continue to fight the gremlins I had been getting other lights working like the rear hatch light and got my windows working now. Well the driver is going well but the passenger will move well but it keeps getting out of track. With all the adjustments on the track, still no luck at all and its pissing me off since the windows are powered and can't see everything that will cause a teeter toter effect. (placing one hand on one hand on thee edge of the window and the other on the rear and move the window around and feel lose play in movement and teeter.) The driver window is solid, no play.

And as of 3-31-11 I finally after owning the car since 2008 I got it on her 1ST ride down the road at long last. Just a simple gas and air in the tires maintenance but still it finally got on the road and recorded the action despite the weather. She ran really nice although at 3rd gear she started to buck a bit. And a bit least in 4Th and 5Th. Once I got the Gas and the air set, she bolted out away from the gas station with a lil spin from the clutch and flew home. I will post different topics soon and maybe videos on youtube to help out on some other issues like my idle and the windows and updates.

How is your ignition looking es743u? I hope you got some results.

Kentetsu

You can update to a newer style of "modular" fuse link. Take a look at the attached photo. These are available at any parts store, and I believe you need 2x15 amp (outer links) and 1x30 amp (center link). They plug right in like they were made for our cars.




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blujRX7

Funny this is, right after I my last post, I found a link that I forgot I had that was explaining the same links there. But I thank you for post without a doubt this is good stuff. From the site, It was 2 bussman FLF 20's and the middle link is a FLF 40. And you are right Kentetsu, they do fit as if it was made for our cars!
The colors give it a more upgraded look to it in a way and once I got all the links replaced, The headlights finally move as they should since August 2010. But they do close in lazy eye position for now and had to push em down for the to close fully so have to make some adjustments there I believe. Also You are right on were to find em. I found the FLF 20's at advance auto before the fact I thought these are hard to find so I took a longer drive to NAPA for the FLF 40 and got 2 FLF 30's. They didn't had 20's and I wasn't leaving empty handed. But now I have to return them to get some cash back. If I got online to your post sooner, I won't have to worry about NAPA but its fine. I need to get some fusible link wires to make as mentioned with Dankekong so I can now find out what cause this mess from the start and see if its a short in the harness. If the links I made blow then its no biggie and just work new ones in and try again till its good and put in the modular styled.

Now just got to look figure out the mystery of my dash lights not working. From what I can see there is a post here on 2 bullet wires you DO NOT connect (I DIDN'T CONNECT THEM) since its for a automatic trans but from what I read in the post, the colors are slightly different than mine and found them else where. So this makes me think otherwise, there might be another cause.

Also there is the sound system. As mentioned before its a more physical wire issue since the last owner butchered the original wires and ran some directly from the head. I want to use the original wires where I can use both amps and the stick balancer, with new speakers and one new amp for a sub. The Gremlins may come to play since all this happened when I tested the head unit and may have connected the wrong wires for the speakers from the harness I brought from Ebay. It was a square connector for the speakers and the harness has to set of them but only found one for the front speakers but can't find the back. I have looked at the diagram and certain posts that there is a connector used for the original head that looks similar to the old PC keyboard connectors. From what it see it seems that the connectors from the speakers and amp run through that connector sharing with the old equalizer which I do have and balancer. I would try to get a female connector where it can retro fit everything with my plans to have a carputer in play which is already tested and ready when I can get the wiring done right 1st while still using some original equipment.