Fupasaurous

My 87 FC is giving me some issues with starting, along with pretty much just doing what it wants. As soon as battery is connected my hazards will blink until either the battery is disconnected or I go to start the car and at that point it just kills power completely ( with the battery still connected ). Remove negative terminal and replace back to square one. I have more info on this but every time i try to get help either everyone peeks at the post but doesn't help out or it just doesn't post. Please help me get this thing on the road again i literally drove it days ago and couldn't be upset if i tried ( believe me i did thought about bills, going back to work, and having to give up smoking, etc. )and now I just want to shoot the first person who compliments the thing I'm so


I'm not stupid but I know this is going to be something ridiculous and simple. Any ideas or prior knowledge at this point would be wonderful. Thanks.

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

It sounds like a ground problem to me. Every Rx7 has some kind of grounding issue. Try check out this link and look over Aarons site there is a lot of knowledge on there.


http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm

Fupasaurous

That's what I thought but I have 12 at the battery and I even checked from the alternator to ground and Ive got 12v could this be the starter/clutch (not sure it's exact name) switch

Bookmarked that and I guess I'll just have to turn the frown upside down ad try to not light this thing on fire for the 3rd day in a row thanks Ryan

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

When the power is killed, what happens? Is the key on 'Start' or 'On' or 'Acc'

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like an after market alarm without the siren is hooked up? Kills power completely? Like try to crank and won't start or what?

Fupasaurous

AT THIS TIME:

It will cut power completely as if i disconnected the negative lead from the battery terminal when i turn the key from ON to START.

ACC is just allowing me to use my wipers, high beams, etc. But the head lights, hazards, brake lights along with anything that draws from the auxiliary source without running the engine are getting power without the key in the ignition as soon as power is present.

After sitting in the drivers seat however i noticed that over a short period of time where the battery is connected ( NOT RUNNING, KEY NOT INSERTED ). I can see the voltage meter dropping with each draw the hazard lights take to blink. Suddenly the power will cut out the same as when I disconnect the battery or when I try to send power to the starter. Not sure if its just the resistance becoming to overwhelming for the battery to keep looping; or a loose ground that gets triggered from the play in the chassis when I move around in the car. But whenever it "RESETS" itself like this I have to disconnect and reconnect the battery to get the ECU to recognize the power source as being present and get back those blinking hazards I'm so fond of

There really are no signs that it had an after market alarm and if it did they took pretty much everything that would leave a traceable path.

It has an after market K&N cold air intake so some connectors under the hood are or look to be DISABLED?. From what I've heard though these came with a complete harness from factory regardless of the model. Pretty sure my GXL was never loaded though thus explaining the misc. random open connectors.

Removed the dash 2nd day I owned it just to see the money pit i was going to dive into, and for my own self gratification of possibly relocating and using the switch and push start the wing nut i bought it off had installed only to find that he didn't tap into anything besides what disconnects from the main harness that runs up the steering column after the connectors anyway so I just put everything back the way it came off to the best of my knowledge and picked up the switch from Mazda and at that point was just a matter of plugging male to female.

One thing i did notice with this was the toggle located on the back of the little white box that seats into the ignition cylinder may have not been secured 100% due to removal of the tiny circle clips that hold it in place were pretty haggard after getting them off reusing would be a crap shoot option and where just throwing one more variable into my goose chase. So i zip tied it once in place and it actually seems to be a much more secure option then its predecessor ( Added bonus zip ties are cheap as f@#$ and much easier to remove and install if ever need be ). This time when i turn my key to START i can actually here the starter getting power and trying to complete the circuit before killing my power source.

After more thorough investigating from this area in my engine bay I see that the factory black wire/power to my starter is crimped to a different color and gauge wire running to what seems to be in between a heat shield and the chassis running towards the rear of the car parallel with my exhaust and drive train. Not sure how far this runs back or if this is a normal location for the power to starter to come from.

Didn't have a chance to dig any deeper nor did i real feel like it after my hydraulic jack malfunctioned causing it projectile release what seemed the entire contents of 10 year old oil at my face. Thats all she wrote for that day.

Fupasaurous

Narrowed it down to my starter shitting the bed and either being replaced or is there a way to upgrade/rebuild it to maybe turn the engine or transmission over more efficeiently as well as fire from a more direct source i.e. S2000 ignition push start any help would be awesome pretty ready to sell trade the car at this point if I can't get it to run