Eccentric shaft bolt
Eccentric shaft bolt
01-12-12, 10:53 AM
#2
These are known to be tough cookies to crack. They had loctite installed at the factory, so that's what you're fighting. Use a torch to heat the bolt and melt the locite before impacting. Or you can take it to a shop that has big pneumatic tools to remove it.
01-12-12, 03:21 PM
#3
I have an impact rated at 450 ft/lbs. and I've had mixed results on that hub nut. What I've done when the impact wasn't enough........
*Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube. Then set the BARE engine block on a piece of plywood or board on the floor of the garage. The wood must be large enough so the bottom of the engine block does not make contact with the concrete.
*Using a piece of angle-iron (at least 1.5" is preferred) or any sturdy bar 4 to 6 feet long, drill a couple of holes in it so you can bolt it to the flywheel.
*Get the biggest breaker bar you can with a impact shallow-socket. Then get a pipe for a cheater extension (a floor jack handle also works).
*Assemble three or four friends, at least one of them should be over 200 lbs. Have the biggest guy stand on top of the BARE engine block with soft shoes.
*With the block secured from rotating and with the angle-iron holding the internals from rotating, use that big breaker bar with the other two friends.
*When it let's loose, take your buddies for beer and pizza for their trouble. Trust me, it will be one of the cheaper things you will do during the rebuild and you might need them again.
A couple of friends using the method at my shop when my impact wasn't enough. Should give you an idea of what I'm talking about. I'm taking the picture because I simply wasn't needed. The guy at the breaker-bar end is about 6'4" and 300 lbs. The guy standing on the block is an USAF Pilot who coached me on this method the first time.
*Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube. Then set the BARE engine block on a piece of plywood or board on the floor of the garage. The wood must be large enough so the bottom of the engine block does not make contact with the concrete.
*Using a piece of angle-iron (at least 1.5" is preferred) or any sturdy bar 4 to 6 feet long, drill a couple of holes in it so you can bolt it to the flywheel.
*Get the biggest breaker bar you can with a impact shallow-socket. Then get a pipe for a cheater extension (a floor jack handle also works).
*Assemble three or four friends, at least one of them should be over 200 lbs. Have the biggest guy stand on top of the BARE engine block with soft shoes.
*With the block secured from rotating and with the angle-iron holding the internals from rotating, use that big breaker bar with the other two friends.
*When it let's loose, take your buddies for beer and pizza for their trouble. Trust me, it will be one of the cheaper things you will do during the rebuild and you might need them again.
A couple of friends using the method at my shop when my impact wasn't enough. Should give you an idea of what I'm talking about. I'm taking the picture because I simply wasn't needed. The guy at the breaker-bar end is about 6'4" and 300 lbs. The guy standing on the block is an USAF Pilot who coached me on this method the first time.
01-13-12, 03:55 PM
#6
Your probably right of course. But it's easier for the average guy to come up with a drilled bar, a big extension, pipe and a few friends than a 3/4 inch impact and air.
Just me, but I'd be a bit nervous about putting ALOT of heat to the bolt. Probably doesn't hurt anything and the e-shaft would conduct it away pretty quick anyway. Still, I'd inspect the thrust bearing and washer close afterward.
Just me, but I'd be a bit nervous about putting ALOT of heat to the bolt. Probably doesn't hurt anything and the e-shaft would conduct it away pretty quick anyway. Still, I'd inspect the thrust bearing and washer close afterward.
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Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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09-16-18 07:16 PM