Just got my 94 TT dyno'd. Little history on the car. 94 FD 63K miles. The only mods are Greddy Intake, Gotham Racing down pipe. These were both on the car when I bought it. I disconnected the air pump when I got it. Anyways I put down 255Hp on my dyno dynamics dyno. Sorry I havent had a chance to post the dyno sheet. My concern is that my AFRs are down in the 11's and my boost is 12psi. I thought that factory boost should be about 10psi. Is this because the car has a down pipe on it? Is 12psi a safe level for a stock engine. Is it safe to drive a rotary running that rich? At lower RPMs the numbers are better 13s or so. I want the engine to last a little while before I do a full rebuild on it. At least a year or two. Any suggestions or advice.

 

While I'm not an FD expert I do own one. Rich is certainly safer. While you won't put down the best HP #'s that rich you won't blow up. The downpipe and intake have increased the boost level on you. I think 12psi is ok as long as your rich. Your correct factory boost is 10psi.

In my case I hardly see 10, it peaks there but then drops to 8. Steve at Gotham has looked at it. Funny I have 63K miles on mine, also a 94.

Remember the 3 mod rule. With another mod, say a cat back, you will need a boost controller or an aftermarket ecu, or both. THere is a lot of stuff on this in the 3rd gen section.

Good luck, welcome to rotary world.

Paul

 

I'm not an FD guy, but most of this is pretty generic rotary stuff...

So it is catless? If you still have cats, you need the air pump. If you don't have cats, you can eliminate the airpump.

That's pretty good!

I assume you are running mid 11:1 AFRs under boost? If so, then that's right where you want to be for good power with a margin of safety. Any richer then about 11:1 and you are throwing power out of the tailpipe. Approaching the 12s is unsafe territory when running around 10 PSI on the stock setup. 12 PSI is a safe level as long as you have the fuel for it, which it appears you do.

What RPM and what boost level? Generally you should NEVER be seeing 13s under boost unless we're talking 2-3 PSI.

 

I still have the main cat on the car. The AFRs are at about 11.5:1 @3500RPM and then drop and stay below that at 4K. At 3K my AFRs are about 12.6. I think that I will just buy a Power FC get a boost controller and call it a day. That way I will be safe and then I can mod the car later for more power if I want. Because the car had a Greddy intake on it when I purchased it they had the air pump ports blocked on the intake and the pump was just open to atmosphere. It was still running the pump so I just disconnected the pump clutch wire. If im not worried about emissions then I dont really need the air pump do I. I thought that it was only used during warm up and for emissions. Thanks for the help. I will try and post my dyno sheet on the board tomorrow. Ill post it in the dyno sheet section but ill link to it also for you guys. Thanks for the help. Oh yeah how do you guys feel about Power FC Vs. F Con. I can get either but which is more FD friendly. We use a ton of Fcons at the shop on the Z and G cars but I dont have any experience on the Power FC or the FD. I just want my car to be reliable and not blow up. I want to reach around 350-400HP in the future. Thanks

 

I would say the Power FC, along with removing the cat and replacing it with a Borla XR-1, or, better yet, a full 3-1/8" exhaust upgrade. You'll need the exhaust upgrade for your hp goals. Fwiw, by installing the downpipe, that reduced back pressure, allowing the turbo to spin/boost more freely. Just what a rotary needs.

I assume you have plenty of piston experience, but this is your first rotary? If so, toss out what you know about AFRs. 12:1+ AFRs under full boost can be terminal for a rotary.

 

good info....i unlearn something everyday

 

Normally I'd recommend you not run a stock fuel system at 12psi. However your AFRs are good, so you're probably OK so long as you go no higher without proper support mods.

I do recommend that you install an adjustable boost controller so that you can keep boost where you want it. Without one, your boost levels will change any time you modify the car and you might even see excess boost in cold weather. You may also be seeing a boost spike at 4500rpm and a better controller will eliminate that.

Like the others said, take fuel and boost levels very seriously. Turbocharged rotaries are very fragile if you get into detonation.

Dave

 

Okay here is my dyno. The boost is not on here but it is 12psi and doesnt go over that. I will get a boost controller and I think I will go ahead and get a fuel pump to be on the safe side. Does anyone see a reason to change the stock injectors at this time. They dont have any issues with just going out do they. As you guys guessed correctly I do have a lot of piston experience. But I have always wanted an FD so I finally found the right one. Thanks again for the help.

 

I will check that out because I dont think that I was hitting the fuel cut. For one you would see the horsepower drop off on the chart and two I would think I would feel it.

 

As title sais i'm also the proud owner of a 93 FD has a microtech ecu 3.5inch HKS exhaust standard boost air filters and twin plate clutch.
Getting all the apex seals done at the moment and a large extend port, will be interesting what type of power it makes on the dyno??

Any thought's from people witht the similar setup or have seen similar before??

Cheers Nath