Selrahc_5

Car is a !988 RX7 NA vert. Sorry if this is a silly question. Ive looked everywhere on line, and in my manuals, but all they ever show is the Charcoal Canister... This is located right behind it. It has a throttle cable, and a vacuum line coming off of it. Where does the vacuum line go, and how does the cable run? Im getting an immense amount of slack when trying to run it....

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

You are gonna feel silly when I tell you it is the Cruise Control actuator...

Selrahc_5

Yeah a little... Where does the vac line go to? Like I said I cannot find it in either manual I have...
Also, I did a vacuum delete. Removed rats nest, egr, bac, acv, and cold start up system. I've checked everything I possibly could think of. Resistance tested everything but the TPS cause I cant get the car to start and warm up to adjust it. It tries to turn over, but just won't fire. Replaced plugs and wires too... All block off plates are 100 percent sealed. Could the vac line for the cruise control not being hooked up throw it off enough that it wouldn't start?Like i said though, I don't know where it goes. I don't even see a nipple for the CC that I didn't cap at least...

marclong

iTrader: (1)

Do you have thermowax?

Selrahc_5

Nope, got rid of all the cold start and thermowax components

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Then,no offense, you have to suffer with the Modifications that you did.That is the downfall of doing your "emissions delete".
My car has Zero stuff on the Throttle body and I sit in the car and wait until it warms up.That is price I pay..but it's no sweat to me as I got a Kick *** Stereo..lol!

anyways,as far as the Cruise actuator is concerned,if you can find a nipple on the back side (near firewall) of the throttle body that has vacuum then you are good to go.

Selrahc_5

What do you mean the consequences? What consequences do you speak of? Ive read a fair amount into it and understand what I have to do when I cold start the car without the emissions equipment. Is there something I don't know that is bad that I should?
And alright, thanks! Ill get that hooked up tomorrow I guess!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Let me see,.you take the parts off that allow the car to have the ability to warm up on it's own OFF the engine and it sort of has it's consequences.
Personally Emissions delete is just another way of getting crap off the engine that saves you 2 pounds of headache.Sure,the engine runs just as good without the stuff,but then again it was there for a purpose.
I took it off to clean up the engine bay,plain and simple.
If I was N/A I would have left the engine the way it was.It didn't hurt anything.But it does make the car easier to work on.

So 6 of one thing and a half a dozen of the other.

I think it's a "rotary thing".You can do it,because you CAN.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

im assuming the car ran before you did all of this emissions removal?,

if so id suspect you did something wrong when you deleted everything?
did you use a new upper to lower intake manifold gasket?

double check you put the right plug wires to the right spots?
check if you have spark?
check all over for vacuum leaks again something you forgot to cap off?

is the green plug in the back of the water pump housing pluged in?( the ecus temperature sensor)

is the air temp sensor on the driverside of the plenum pluged in?( small 2 prong sensor)

also look closly did you plug the right connectors to each injector ( ive seen people get primarys and secondarys backwards or various mismatch)

did you remove the metal rats next? if so did u accidently mix up the pressure and return fuel lines?


you could take some pictures of it from a few angles as you have it now, and then some with the upper intake manifold off?

Selrahc_5

Well to answer both of your questions, no the car did not run before i did the delete. It was my DD then it just stopped running well one day. Didnt want to idle hardly at all. BAC valve was defective, several bad vac hoses, and the EGR valve was completely clogged. I figured i would do it all to eliminate problems since would have the UIM off in the process of replacing the vac lines...
@Kompressor
To answer those questions:
-New UIM gasket
-Plug wires are correct (Actually had to get a diagram up cause one of my coil packs wasnt marked for L or T)
-There IS spark
-Everything is capped that i can find, will check again
-GREEN PLUG IS NOT PLUGGED IN! Would this cause the car to not start? I used Rotaryressurections guide, but some things were not mentioned needing to be plugged back in, so i didnt
-Air temp sensor is plugged in
-the plugs for the primary would not reach to the secondary. i imagine on each of the rails these fire at the same time, so as long as it was on the right rail, it wouldnt matter, correct?
-Rats nest is gone, Fuel filter -> primary fuel rail, correct?

Sorry if i seem unsure about some things. Im not a mechanic but am truly trying my hardest to learn! I appreciate you all helping me and giving me some guidance!

Ill try to get some pics for you all tomorrow when i get back up to it and try to get it going again!

DeMoe Aurelius

iTrader: (4)

Injectors plugs being mixed up mainly happens on Turbo engines. With out the Water Temp sensor plugged in the car will act stupid. Check all vacuum lines like suggested, if you pulled the CAS! Make sure to restab it correct, that will definitely make the car not start. Check fuses and make sure you didn't flood, and make sure the AFM is plugged in.

DeMoe Aurelius

iTrader: (4)

I the tach needle don't jump while cranking replace the 7.5 fuse in the cabin.