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Disconnected Air Lines Found

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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:59 PM
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Disconnected Air Lines Found

It's a 1986 GXL N/A. I found 2 disconnected air lines on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I am almost certain that they are for the catalytic converter.

I took some pics:
Little line 1

Little line 2

Big line 1

Big line 2

There is no cat, but the shell is still there. The little one is attached to the air control valve. The big one is attached to the back of the intake manifold. I could not get a picture of the attachment point, but it's back there. I think they are the two lines that would go to the split air pipe that attaches to the catalytic converter.

What happens if I leave them disconnected? I may be crazy, but what I am certain is the actuator, which can be seen in Big Line 2, is stuck to leave the secondary valves open all the time.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TX_RX
It's a 1986 GXL N/A. I found 2 disconnected air lines on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I am almost certain that they are for the catalytic converter.
I took some pics:
Little line 1
Aux port actuator line. It should connect to a nipple on the split air pipe. I can't tell if your split air pipe is still there.

And that might be the line that went to the now-missing split air pipe.

What happens if I leave them disconnected? I may be crazy, but what I am certain is the actuator, which can be seen in Big Line 2, is stuck to leave the secondary valves open all the time.
The aux port line means that your aux ports are never opening, which is killing top end power. Has the air pump also been removed? If not, the system can be reworked to operate off of air pump pressure.

The missing split air pipe doesn't matter if the car is catless, but you should finish the job by removing the ACV and blocking it off.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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The car is catless, and the air pump is present. The story is that the exhaust pipe had rotted out from pre cat 2 all the way back, so the previous owner removed it all. In it's place he put in a straight pipe with a single muffler and no Y-pipe. He also got rid of the split air pipe.

So my options are:
1) Replace the catalytic converter. Technically for Texas State Safety inspection, this needs to be done. While I am excused from the emissions test for being too old, the safety test DOES have a requirement to visually inspect for the presence of the converter AND proper connection of the air lines. In reality, I may or may not get away with it, I can't tell. If I fail it, I have 15 days to get it inspected and returned to the station.

2)Leave the cat off and make the modifications you suggested.

3)Remove the rest of the air injection system, pump included, and get the aux port actuators to permanently stick open to leave the aux ports open all the time.

Thanks for the info.

Last edited by TX_RX; Feb 10, 2010 at 09:08 PM.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 08:45 AM
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Never leave the ports open all the time. The reduction of low end torque makes the car slower and there is no gain up top over properly working ports.

I guess the easiest thing for you to do is eliminate the secondary air system and take a risk with the safety test.

But it sounds like the best approach is to get an aftermarket high flow cat (ie. from Rotary Performance) and replace that entire damaged section, then reinstall a split air pipe, hook up the ACV, etc.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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Thank you for your help. I thought I recognized your screen name. Your website is quite informative.

Catalytic Converter. Is this "Bonez" catalytic converter the one you refer to? It says "for use with racing beat street header". Do you know if it can be used with the stock manifold/pre cats?

It DOES run as is, I was able to get it to the inspection station (where they informed me that a taped on tail lamp lens is unacceptable; I thought that tape OVER the lens is bad, but tape around the lens is OK; I was mistaken). The easiest way is to risk the safety test as is, and deal with the secondary air system later (but soon).
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 09:33 AM
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The cat alone only seems to fit the RB header, but the "Street Exhaust System" has a downpipe, resonator and cat that is designed to bolt in place of the three stock cats from the manifold to the catback. That's what I was thinking of. I ran one for years and was happy with it. Quiet, a bit more power and the car passed emissions.
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 10:07 PM
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Thank you for your information.

$440 is alot of money right now for me. I think I would rather install a more basic catalytic converter. Plus I fully intend to enter this car in SCCA Autocross, so I need to be careful about what I do to the car to be sure I don't get thrown into a class I don't want to be in.

I think that covers what I need to know.
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 10:57 AM
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The only issue with many aftermarket cats is that they can't handle the exhaust heat put out by the rotary.
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