Couple questions
05-03-11, 03:26 PM
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Couple questions
My bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder is stripped, just wondering what the threading is so I can pick up a new one (Can't find what it is anywhere online). Also, I've bled my clutch over and over again and I know there is no air in there, but when I engage the clutch and put it in gear, the RPM's will either go down or up or sometimes go up and down like the clutch isn't fully engaging (It doesn't do this all the time). It's only about a 3 month old clutch but the old one did the same thing. I never replaced it myself as I have no lift or am mechanically inclined enough to do so. Also, sometimes when I'm driving I can hear a gurgling sound which I first believed to be a hole in the exhaust system but am now believing it to be a problem with the clutch. Just wondering if anyone has any clue to what the problem might be? Thanks.
05-04-11, 11:54 PM
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05-05-11, 12:09 AM
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Any parts store should be able to get a new master and slave for you. If you're going to replace both, you should replace the flexible hose as well. You can get a braided line from Mazdatrix that'll cost less than the OEM one: http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm. It's actually a fairly easy job to replace all 3 parts. You'll spend the most time bleeding the system, and re-adjusting the clutch pedal height.
05-05-11, 03:06 AM
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I have a few questions. First off when you say engage what do you mean let out on the clutch because thats when the clutch is engaging. If you mean dis-engaging(pushing in the pedal).
If your saying that while your driving and you don't have your foot on the clutch pedal,(in gear) cruising and you give it gas the motor goes higher in RPMs but car doesn't accelerate this tells me that you clutch is too tight(which means 1 of two things the adjustment rod above the clutch pedal is too tight and isn't letting the clutch out all the way so its slipping) which also means somebody that didn't know what they were doing was playing with this(clutch pedal height) In other words its like your driving around with your foot pushing the pedal half way down all the time and never letting it out) so it never fully engages and in turn just slips or 2 which I've only seen on a few occasions the clutch pedal bushings on the pedal assembly are worn out and need replaced. (This mostly causes the pedal to not move enough making the clutch not dis-engage) Depends on car an manufacturer
Take this information with a grain of salt because it is broad knowledge and specific to Mazdas. Just my experience
If your saying that while your driving and you don't have your foot on the clutch pedal,(in gear) cruising and you give it gas the motor goes higher in RPMs but car doesn't accelerate this tells me that you clutch is too tight(which means 1 of two things the adjustment rod above the clutch pedal is too tight and isn't letting the clutch out all the way so its slipping) which also means somebody that didn't know what they were doing was playing with this(clutch pedal height) In other words its like your driving around with your foot pushing the pedal half way down all the time and never letting it out) so it never fully engages and in turn just slips or 2 which I've only seen on a few occasions the clutch pedal bushings on the pedal assembly are worn out and need replaced. (This mostly causes the pedal to not move enough making the clutch not dis-engage) Depends on car an manufacturer
Take this information with a grain of salt because it is broad knowledge and specific to Mazdas. Just my experience
05-05-11, 03:11 AM
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Sorry for all the post.
I've been a mechanic for a long time and have worked around a lot of mechanics and the majority of them would be able to have accurately diagnosed this problem(if the mechanic recommended a clutch yeah he made a mistake but most of them would have made the same mistake I know I did only due to working with old cars and it made me better.
I've been a mechanic for a long time and have worked around a lot of mechanics and the majority of them would be able to have accurately diagnosed this problem(if the mechanic recommended a clutch yeah he made a mistake but most of them would have made the same mistake I know I did only due to working with old cars and it made me better.
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05-05-11, 02:04 PM
#8
I don't see anyone suggesting a new clutch disk / p-plate. That wouldn't be my guess either.
Checking the rod is definitely something to rule out before replacing parts; however if the freeplay is within spec (~ 1/4" at most), there should not be constant pressure on the master cylinder.
If it does boil down to an adjustment issue, I still think I would replace the slave at the very least (replacing all 3 major hydraulic components at once would be best). If the bleeder has been stripped, I wouldn't trust that it is sealing fully.
Checking the rod is definitely something to rule out before replacing parts; however if the freeplay is within spec (~ 1/4" at most), there should not be constant pressure on the master cylinder.
If it does boil down to an adjustment issue, I still think I would replace the slave at the very least (replacing all 3 major hydraulic components at once would be best). If the bleeder has been stripped, I wouldn't trust that it is sealing fully.
05-05-11, 10:44 PM
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I have a few questions. First off when you say engage what do you mean let out on the clutch because thats when the clutch is engaging. If you mean dis-engaging(pushing in the pedal).
If your saying that while your driving and you don't have your foot on the clutch pedal,(in gear) cruising and you give it gas the motor goes higher in RPMs but car doesn't accelerate this tells me that you clutch is too tight(which means 1 of two things the adjustment rod above the clutch pedal is too tight and isn't letting the clutch out all the way so its slipping) which also means somebody that didn't know what they were doing was playing with this(clutch pedal height) In other words its like your driving around with your foot pushing the pedal half way down all the time and never letting it out) so it never fully engages and in turn just slips or 2 which I've only seen on a few occasions the clutch pedal bushings on the pedal assembly are worn out and need replaced. (This mostly causes the pedal to not move enough making the clutch not dis-engage) Depends on car an manufacturer
Take this information with a grain of salt because it is broad knowledge and specific to Mazdas. Just my experience
If your saying that while your driving and you don't have your foot on the clutch pedal,(in gear) cruising and you give it gas the motor goes higher in RPMs but car doesn't accelerate this tells me that you clutch is too tight(which means 1 of two things the adjustment rod above the clutch pedal is too tight and isn't letting the clutch out all the way so its slipping) which also means somebody that didn't know what they were doing was playing with this(clutch pedal height) In other words its like your driving around with your foot pushing the pedal half way down all the time and never letting it out) so it never fully engages and in turn just slips or 2 which I've only seen on a few occasions the clutch pedal bushings on the pedal assembly are worn out and need replaced. (This mostly causes the pedal to not move enough making the clutch not dis-engage) Depends on car an manufacturer
Take this information with a grain of salt because it is broad knowledge and specific to Mazdas. Just my experience
I don't see anyone suggesting a new clutch disk / p-plate. That wouldn't be my guess either.
Checking the rod is definitely something to rule out before replacing parts; however if the freeplay is within spec (~ 1/4" at most), there should not be constant pressure on the master cylinder.
If it does boil down to an adjustment issue, I still think I would replace the slave at the very least (replacing all 3 major hydraulic components at once would be best). If the bleeder has been stripped, I wouldn't trust that it is sealing fully.
Checking the rod is definitely something to rule out before replacing parts; however if the freeplay is within spec (~ 1/4" at most), there should not be constant pressure on the master cylinder.
If it does boil down to an adjustment issue, I still think I would replace the slave at the very least (replacing all 3 major hydraulic components at once would be best). If the bleeder has been stripped, I wouldn't trust that it is sealing fully.
05-06-11, 12:09 AM
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There we go thats more like it. Now your symtoms are pointing to 1 of 3 things or a combination.
1 not bled (very easy to bleed and should be easy to rule out)
2 leaky master or slave cylinder
3 worn out pedal assembly bushings or shaft
If it were me I would replace the bushing on the pedal assembly (NO MATTER WHAT) theres nothing like a clutch pedal that feels like a brand new off the show room floor clutch pedal, plus peace of mind, plus the parts are really cheap.
bleeder screw should be the same thread pitch as most cars all together, take it out and take it to the parts store the should have a thread pitch gauge and if not, worse comes to worse a new slave should have one that they are pretty cheap. Last one I bought was 15 bucks I think someone above said in the neighborhood of 8 bucks. Either way 15 bucks for the headache you have is nothing.
To bleed it just top off the res get a cup and get under the car with some small pliers(since stripped) crack it loose till it drips (make pretty assistant fill res as it drains right after she brings out a cold beer and pizza) let it get half empty then tell her to top it off when it gets half empty again tighten it up top off again. Get in car (beer in hand) and go try it out, kidding about the beer.
Now again I don't know if this car has clutch pedal bushings but I have seen other cars with the worn out and your can never get it bled right so call mazda and see if he sell it or used to sell it. If so you know they are there and they are 15-20 sumodd years old and time to be replaced. These two to little 1.50-3.00 dollar bushings have cause people thousands of dollars before. I have personally seen this happen. Didn't cause me that much when I first saw it but it did cause me a 3 day headache.
1 not bled (very easy to bleed and should be easy to rule out)
2 leaky master or slave cylinder
3 worn out pedal assembly bushings or shaft
If it were me I would replace the bushing on the pedal assembly (NO MATTER WHAT) theres nothing like a clutch pedal that feels like a brand new off the show room floor clutch pedal, plus peace of mind, plus the parts are really cheap.
bleeder screw should be the same thread pitch as most cars all together, take it out and take it to the parts store the should have a thread pitch gauge and if not, worse comes to worse a new slave should have one that they are pretty cheap. Last one I bought was 15 bucks I think someone above said in the neighborhood of 8 bucks. Either way 15 bucks for the headache you have is nothing.
To bleed it just top off the res get a cup and get under the car with some small pliers(since stripped) crack it loose till it drips (make pretty assistant fill res as it drains right after she brings out a cold beer and pizza) let it get half empty then tell her to top it off when it gets half empty again tighten it up top off again. Get in car (beer in hand) and go try it out, kidding about the beer.
Now again I don't know if this car has clutch pedal bushings but I have seen other cars with the worn out and your can never get it bled right so call mazda and see if he sell it or used to sell it. If so you know they are there and they are 15-20 sumodd years old and time to be replaced. These two to little 1.50-3.00 dollar bushings have cause people thousands of dollars before. I have personally seen this happen. Didn't cause me that much when I first saw it but it did cause me a 3 day headache.
06-02-11, 12:53 PM
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I'll have everyone know that I think I fixed the idle problem. I looked around the web until I found out the the spring inside a lot of peoples clutch switch breaks. I took it out and surely enough, it was crumbled into three pieces, put a new spring in and voila! No idle issue. Now just to fix the weird sound when I'm driving. My mechanic told me to maybe change the tranny and diff fluid
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