Compression test with motor out of the car
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Compression test with motor out of the car
So I just bought a turbo 2 swAp and I would like to know what's the best way to check compression on it to know if it needs rebuilt or if it's good to go. Any help would be awesome thanks
#2
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iTrader: (18)
Attach the transmission and starter. Power the starter. Don't forget to hook up your compression tester and watch for 3 pulses. If using a standard compression tester, hold down the relief valve while cranking and read the 3 pulses. 80+ psi on all three faces is good compression.
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Attach the transmission and starter. Power the starter. Don't forget to hook up your compression tester and watch for 3 pulses. If using a standard compression tester, hold down the relief valve while cranking and read the 3 pulses. 80+ psi on all three faces is good compression.
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Man imma have to say ur wrong it does matter if it's cold or not I did the exact same thing u said same results both cars I let my street. Port warm up and it's back to better than new compression anyone else know what it should be around when it's cold
#6
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Sounds like you have a bad compresssion tester or both of those engine are old. Like the man said, the numbers should read the same hot and cold. A good condition engine just doesn't have 30 psi of compression when cold and all of a sudden jump up to 100.
The spark plugs have no exhaust ports. Are you only removing the leading or trailing plug and NOT both when performing the test? Only thing I can think of is the engine isn't spinning fast enough when doing the test.
The spark plugs have no exhaust ports. Are you only removing the leading or trailing plug and NOT both when performing the test? Only thing I can think of is the engine isn't spinning fast enough when doing the test.
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Well it might be the tester then and yes only removin one at a time so I'll follow up when I get a new tester I know the street port is in awesome condition cause it read that what it ran the day I got it home exact same numbers And there are like 30k and that was with a different tester so the one I have now might be faulty
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#8
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It doesn't even make sense for an engine to have almost no compression cold. If it did, you would never get it to start up. An engine with low compression on two of six rotor faces is very hard to start. What you're proposing is that every rotary engine acts like a completely blown engine on start up. That's just not the case.
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