My clutch pedal sticks to the floor sometimes and I have to put my foot underneath and lift it up. If I quickly kick the pedal while I shift I have no problems. Shifting into gears is smooth without any grinds or jerks. Just wondering what would cause that. Also when im at a complete stop and im idling in gear sometimes it pops out of gear. I have to keep it in neutral when im at a stop.

 

Sounds like a mechanical problem with the clutch linkage. Check to make sure the fork hasn't popped off the pivot. There is an inspection plate on the top and bottom of the bellhousing you can remove. Failing that, how old are the hydraulics? There could be junk in the hose, acting like a check valve. If the hydraulics are original, replace the master, slave and hose.

 

I just bought the car and the seller was telling me the clutch slave cylinder is the problem. I dont think that has anything to do with it.

 

I havent had any time to look at it because its still currently in canada at my cousins house. He will be driving it down to Chicago for me sometime in the next couple of weeks. When it gets here I plan on doing all fluid swaps and looking at anything that needs replacement. Its a rhd so does anyone know where to order parts for rhd model.

 

why?

 

I don't think the LHD clutch stuff is different from the RHD stuff. Might be a few minor differences but it all fits.

 

Because i think the clutch pedal would feel spongy if air gets in the lines if it had a leak.

 

i would check the pivot on the pedal start with the simple stuff first and it silipping out of gear sounds like a bad detent

 

Whats a detent?

 

It's always Handy to inform people what car you have.
FD Guys.
..bad synchro I am guessing.I'm an Fc guy but I am sure I have read that the FD Trans is not really sturdy in the synchro dept.

 

Sorry I have a 93 fd 5 speed. Rhd if that matters. If the synchronizers are bad I believe that it would grind into gears because im not rev matching or double clutching.

 

Any advice guys???

 

Sounds potentially like a master/slave cylinder problem. When my master failed completely, the clutch pedal wouldn't come up and I'd struggle to get it out of first gear. The pedal bite also became very low on some gear-shifts.

For a cheap trouble-shoot, it might be worth draining the fluid and replacing it. It's no guarantee you'll find/resolve the issue, but at least you'll be able to see whether you're building up a decent amount of pressure when you come to bleed it.

Jumping out of gear does seem like a potential synchro or worn gearbox problem, although shouldn't affect the clutch as far as I see.

 

master/slave or air in the line. check for leaks and if the fluid is topped off/clean. if it is, bleed it. if its not, replace whats leaking.

detent cable?! this isnt an old school automatic trans guys.

 

my 2 cents, agree with other post, its clutch master or slave, and if you don't see fluid leaking at the slave then is the clutch master most likely. good luck! First thing I would do is bleed it and retest, if you are lucky that will help.

 

This happens a lot with slave/ master cylinders. Had a car in the shop for the same thing recently. Plenty of info on the internet on how to test and swap them out. Parts and fluid are relatively cheap. If they're original to the car then it's time to change them out anyway. Good luck.

 

Clutch cylinders, just get both the master and slave replaced, change the fluid, and it'll be fine. Upgrade the clutch line while you're at it.

 

Ok so I will change both master and slave and bleed. Is it a long job because I plan on doing all the work to this car myself. Once it warms up outside I will start replacing everything that needs to be replaced. Are the parts the same on lhd and rhd? Im pretty sure they will be but I would like to make sure before buying the wrong stuff. Thanks again guys

 

But the clutch works apart from the pedal staying on the floor right? Is it possible the pressure plate is flipping itself inside out? Iv heard of this happening when the master cyl's push rod is adjusted for too much pedal travel. If your clutch is disengageing well before the pedal hits the floor, then wind the adjustment in a bit and see how it goes before you spend $$$ on anything.

 

Ya my clutch releases the gear way before reaching the floor. Only pedal sticks to floor if I fully depress the pedal but I found out that if i barely push clutch pedal just enough for the gear to get released everything is good. I kick clutch pedal and shift quickly and have no problem with smooth gear change.

 

Anyone have a step by step instruction on how to replace master and slave cylinder? Any pictures or a video is even better. Thanks again

 

Youtube is always my go-to. Yes it's on an elantra; but same principle.

 

Get on yr back underneath the pedals with a couple of spanners and adjust the clutch pedal/master cylinder push rod till the clutch disengages just before the pedal hits the floor before you order any parts.

 

If the clutch seems to work normally besides the pedal sticking to the floor, then you are mostly likely looking at a hydraulic issue.

If there are no visible leaks then the main problem is likely to be a bypassing master cylinder.

Usually when the master cylinder is bypassing like this it will create issues with getting the trans in gear while stopped. If it goes in gear OK now you may find the clutch releases very high when you get the hydraulics working right. while it may simply be an adjustment issue, I usually find out about a worn out clutch after fixing the hydraulics.

Now, the popping out of gear thing is probably not related. Detent problems, worn shift forks, and shift hubs in the transmission could be issues.

sorting out problems on a used car can be "joyful"

Victor

 

How I changed my slave cylinder on my FD. I put the car on a lift and got under it. The slave cylinder should be on the drivers side of the transmission. I bled the slave cylinder. I used an extension to reach the bolts. The top one is the hardest to reach. The bottom is fairly easy. Becareful not to break the line into the slave cylinder and carefully unscrew it. It has some play but don't test it. I hope this is somewhat helpful. I'm not great at explaining things but figured I'd give it a try. If you have any other questions let me know.