dafish

I have an 86 n/a with an 88 motor in it, and manual trans. A while back, my car started to die when ever I would stop at a light or stop sign. I was told to check for vacuum leaks, so I put all new vacuum lines on. It didn't help so I put new intake gaskets on, still no help. The car will sit and idle when its cold, but once it warms up it wants to die. I then removed all the emissions, acording to the post on rotary ressurection. I used block off plates from banzai racing, still no help. I checked the TPS, and adjusted timing, still no help. I swapped out the computer, the coils and the crank angle sensor. Still the same thing. I noticed the last time I checked timing, that the trailing coil wasn't firing all the time, and some times not at all. I checked the wiring from the computer to the coil and they ohmed out good. I'm lost, any suggestions? If nothing else, does anyone know a good rx7 mechanic in Oklahoma? Thanks for any help, this is my first rotary engine!

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Open up the air bypass screw on the throttle body. It'll likely have a black rubber cap over it. You should also jumper the inital set coupler before doing this, which will keep the ECU from correcting while you make the adjustment. The coupler is a green, 2 wire plug by the leading coil. Just jumper it with a short wire.

The other thing to adjust is the variable resistor, which is by the air box. Adjust it slightly toward lean or rich, and see if idle speed increases or becomes smoother. Again, jumper the initial set coupler before doing this.

If the bypass screw it already open all of the way, and the resistor doesn't help, you can tighten the throttle cable slightly to crack the throttle plates open slightly more at rest. This isn't the best way, but it beats stalling at lights.

dafish

I had already adjusted the air bypass screw, but not the variable resistor, so I'll try that next. I had to adjust the screw for the throttle cable, after I took off all the emission stuff. I think it may be dying because of the trailing coil not firing right, or at all, causing too much fuel in the engine. It does smell pretty rich. What could be making the trailing coil not fire right. Thanks for the inputs! I'll have to work on it next week though, I'm going on a bike run this weekend. At least my Harley still runs right!

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

If you think the trailing coil isn't firing, attach a timing light to the trailing spark plug wires. If the light never comes on, there's no current in the wire. Though, I don't think this is your problem. Rotaries always run rich. It's the nature of the beast.

It's more likely the engine just isn't getting enough air flow once the thermowax heats up. You could adjust the screw on the cam that gets rotated once the thermowax retracts. This would increase the warm idle speed.

dafish

I don't have the thermo wax on my throttle body. I got rid of all that extra stuff along with the rest of the emissions. Check out Rotary Ressurrection, and read the part on removing emissions. I removed all that stuff to eliminate any vacuum leaks, cause at first, I thought that was my problem. I have already put a timing light on the plug wires. The Leading coil fires just fine, but the Trailing coil doesn't always fire. I have already swapped out the Trailing coil with another known good one, and it still does the same thing. I don't have a clue on what could be causing that. Keep coming up with suggestions, I'll try anything that might work. Thanks for the suggestions!