cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Glad you are deciding to get the project going. Let us know how things go

audiman

iTrader: (1)

well today i decided to fiddle with the car a little bit. so i was going to jack the front end up so i could get underneath it and inspect some more things. found out that there is aaaallllloooootttttttttt more rust spots than i thought. all from where the rubber coating that was originally on the car was flaking off(probably due to it sitting/sinking into the ground for 5+ years. oh well just more to do i guess.

i was going to try and pull the radiator fan off but there is ONE bolt, just ONE!?!?!? that will not budge at all and wont let me pull it off(was going to do this so i could get to the eccentric shaft pulley with a socket to turn the motor over and see if it was carbon locked...will explain in a minute...) so instead of stripping the bolt head anyfurther i sprayed some penetrating oil on it to see if it will help break it free overnight. anyways i just opted to pull the whole radiator out since the fluids needed to be changed anyway. i did that and drained the coolant etc etc...

then i could get to the eccentric shaft pulley finally(still had to unbolt the rad fan from the fan clutch so it would move around a little, but still couldnt remove the whole fan assembly due to that one stubborn bolt). i put a socket on the center of the eccentric shaft and used a ratchet to turn the motor over. it turned over relatively easily getting slightly more difficult every few turns of the ratchet(good bad? just from the compression?) then getting easier again so im hoping it should start right up once i replace the select parts that need fixin.

i also removed the starter which i think is bad(will get it tested). i really wish i had a lift t put the car on cus it would make life so much easier to work on....anyway the only thing i didnt do was drain the oil which i dont want to do that until i have fresh oil handy to put right back in.

but just a little bit of tinkering tonight until i got hungry.

thoughts, opinions, and suggestions are still more than welcome! haha thanks guys

Cameron

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

For the rad fan bolt go to autozone and buy a kit to take off stripped bolts. I had to do it and it cost me $25. The rust is a pain to prep out because all the rust will be falling on you as you work on it once its prepped its easy to fix. I used sheet metal, primer, self tappers, rhino liner, fiberglass resin, tin snips and a wire brush. Take out two spark plugs one for each rotor and spin it. With the spark plugs in the compression builds and makes it harder to turn when the plugs are out you should get 3 even chug sounds per rotor per full revolution. If any of the chug sounds are weaker then the others there is an internal problem calling for a rebuild depending on what it is.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, thanks man, I appreciate the advice, ill definitely go look for the stripped bolt removal kit(or whatever its called haha) and yea the rust surprised me but hopefully it won't be too bad to fix. The under side I could probably do myself, but as for the fenders and iinner fenders and what not, ill have to get my buddy to hook my up, he had 3 years of autobody in highschool, graduated with ASE certification and has worked at a body shop, so he should be able to handle it for me haha. Also will try and buy the FPR for it and new fuel lines this coming paycheck, hopefully ill be able to wire everything up correctly the first time and get it started(really hope it starts)

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Youre welcome and thats good youre getting professional help from your friend. I have a friend who went for it too but I wanted to learn everything for myself so I tried it out. For doing it my first time it turned out pretty good so maybe try it out for yourself too and you might be suprised on how well it turns out. Just take your time with it and not rush it and itll all be good. You can download the factory service manual or haynes manual online for free and itll help you hook up everything right the first time so no headaches.

GrandmoffSilvey

I have an 84 rx7 that sat in a garage for 6 years doing nothing. It had the clutch and break cylinders go out on it in less than 3000 miles. And, the tires were over a decade old, there was a dry rot flat on the highway. I also changed every oil in it.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

^ You should probably change the fuel filter and oil filter as soon as possible if you didnt do it yet.

GrandmoffSilvey

If this was directed at me. Note: I don't want to be accused of hijacking a forum. I'm only in a similar place with my car as this fellow. Yeah that was changed, with spark plugs, and oil filters, haven't done the coolant hoses yet. Would have done the steering gear box oil (non-power steering), but I'm not so sure that part of my loose steering problem is in the stearing gear box. I forgot to mention that my oil pump needed to be rebuilt. The fuel pump stopped opperating.

The basic point of this story is that my car, like yours, has alot of original components in it. Nearly everyone of those parts that has some kind of seal in may need some love. With that in mind you will want to learn how to do to do alot of these component rebuilds yourself if you don't already know, and your budget will thank you for it.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Yeah it was intended towards you but ok good that you changed em. I do all the work on my cars and have restored 1 Rx-7 so far and Im in the process of restoring another one on a pretty tight budget. It is a S5 vert and I am in the slow process of doing the 6 port turbo conversion to it.

Denser

iTrader: (2)

hella of a deal for a great car hope everything pans out for you and you get to driv it around soon hood luck !

audiman

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the help so far guys, as soon as it stops raining and cools off and i have some free time ill try to put back together what i have for it

Rotaryguy77

Any progress?

krx71189

im with ^^ him, i wanna know how far you've gotten since august.

gdub29e

iTrader: (16)

Good luck with the project!!

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Also checking your thread out now, post up again! Hope its going well and good luck to you!

audiman

iTrader: (1)

ok sorry for leaving you guys hanging so long, and for putting the project off for so long. school and work and just life has been busy busy. anyways...

started working on it today, went and bought new oil, oil filter, spark plugs (ngk's BR8's), and coolant. put the new starter on and hooked up my battery from my Audi to the car with jumper cables(bypassed the rx7 battery since its absoltely dead and wont complete a solid connection.). turned the key just to see if it would turn over even once, nothing happened. i checked the connections, starter is getting power and its grounded. but it wont turn the motor over.

any suggestions? i hear something clicking in the engine bay every time i turn the key, starter solenoid? oh and i had the starter tested, its good.


also was going to work on istalling the carter fuel pump. noticed that there was a dry rotted line going to the fuel filter, swapped out the line and put a gallon of fresh fuel in and turned the key on, the oem pump appears to be working... it makes noise and when i checked it visually it was vibrating so im assuming its trying to pump fuel haha.

anyways im wore out, went to work(i work in the Tire and Lube Express at the local walmart) at 7am this morning and have been fiddling with cars all day. time for bed.

hope yall can give me some advice on the starter issue! might try bypassing the ignition switch ghetto style and hotwiring i to see if the starter will work. sorry for the hold up again!

Cameron

GrandmoffSilvey

OK, I once had this problem. Before you have your starter checked. On my FB there are I think it's (three) electrical jumpers near the coils and opposite of the battery, they are small wires that are poping out and going back into a plastic interface with some leads on it (they will be connected to the leads of course). These offen fray and corrode and don't allow for enough current to pass though and it causes you to hear a click and no start. These leads have to do with the electrial switch that starts the car.

I don't know where they are on an SA.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

any chance you could get a picture of this and post it? i think i know what youre talking about but if it is then i checked the power going throuhg the jumpers with a testlight and they all had power thanks

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Also what is the location of the starter solenoid? Want to check it because i think that might be the problem

Kentetsu

The wires he is speaking of are Fusible Links. They are mounted on the driver's side strut tower, front side. They often appear intact, even though they are burnt out internally. They function in a manner similar to a fuse.

The starter solenoid is the small can shaped thingy attached to the starter. Make sure your wires are hooked up correctly at the starter. Main battery + wire attaches to the bolt that DOES NOT have the braided wire already bolted to it. Then there will be a small plug that goes on the tab on the solenoid. Also ensure that the negative battery cable is properly mounted to the engine block (uses starter bolt to mount, so sometimes gets missed).

While you are at it, check/clean/tighten connections at the battery as well. Just because you are getting power at the starter doesn't mean you're getting enough power. Also, these battery cables can corrode internally and cause all sorts of issues. I always recommend replacement if it hasn't already been done.

Last thought on why the starter might click, but not turn the motor over, is a scary one. With the transmission in nuetral, see if you can rotate the main pulley on the front of the engine. If not, then you have serious internal engine issues (block is jammed up).

Good luck.



.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Thanks abunch man. ill double check the wires going to the starter when i get off work. and the bolt on top of the starter has the metal bracket that bolts up to the block? ill take some sandpaper to ill the connections. also what is the small metal box behind the driver headlight withbthe electrical connector attached? it seems to be making the clicking noise along with another similar box next to the brake fluid resovoir on the side of the engine bay

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

It is the starter solenoid. Its not getting a good enough electrical current to kick the solenoid over to move the starter. I had the exact same problem with my FC when it was ready for the first start up. The solenoid is on the starter. If you havent already try cleaning the ground on the starter wire that bolts to the strut tower on the drivers side. The bolt holding the ground sticks into the wheel well and gets destroyed over the years by water and junk. After cleaning that ground on my FC, along with all the other grounds, my car has not had the problem since then and the voltage increased on the meter.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Ill check this stuff out tomorrow and try to clean all the grounds. thanks abunchbforbtje advice so far guys!

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I've checked the grounds that i can find and see. everything appears to be grounded. even cleaned up a couple grounds to be sure. if anyone could list all the main grounds and their locations id be very grateful. any pics of anything also would be absolutely amazing.

But on a positive note. the motor turns over with a wrench on the eccentric shaft pulley. its got fresh oil and filter and new spark plugs and fresh gas. also found a few fuel leaks from really old dry rotted hose. fixed those. now just have to figure out the electrical side of things. thanks for the help again so far!

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Starter still will not turn when key is turned. even tapping it with a hammer won't work. tried jumping the starter and got it to turn but nother engage on the flywheel.

what is the electrical connector thing bolted behind the driver headlight? It makes a clicking noise when i turn the key.

Also replaced the ground terminal cable. new spark plugs are in along with new oil and filter. what Is the exact oil capacity.