Buying a new RX-7...
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Santa Monica, CA
Buying a new RX-7...
I have read all the FAQ's about buying an RX-7, and I have a question...
For the compression testing, is there any way to not do that, and still know that the engine is in good condition? I am looking at getting one from a dealership, and I am betting they will let me hook up the boost gauge, but I don't know about compression tests...
I will most likely have a few more questions as I get closer to buying, but that is all I can think of for now...
Anyways, TYIA for any help offered! ;-)
For the compression testing, is there any way to not do that, and still know that the engine is in good condition? I am looking at getting one from a dealership, and I am betting they will let me hook up the boost gauge, but I don't know about compression tests...
I will most likely have a few more questions as I get closer to buying, but that is all I can think of for now...
Anyways, TYIA for any help offered! ;-)
Hello,
The compression test will probably be the quickest and easiest (for a dealer) to tell you how good/bad the APEX seals are.
For FDs (I am sure it is very similar for FCs as this test is kind of standard for engines), you (in a nutshell)
remove the front and rear trailing-side spark plugs
disconnect circuit relay and igniter connector
connect the SST (Mazda diagnostic tool) where the spark plugs would go
crank while having the accelerator pedal fully pressed (called "de-choke" mode)
And that will give you the compression ratio (or just kPa number) for each rotor, which will tell you how good or bad the seals are.
If it's a Mazda dealer he SHOULD be able to provide the information.
If not the symptoms for bad seals are bad fuel economy, less power and bad idle. So it's all subjective to tell.
You can always ask if the seals have ever been changed on that car.
The compression test will probably be the quickest and easiest (for a dealer) to tell you how good/bad the APEX seals are.
For FDs (I am sure it is very similar for FCs as this test is kind of standard for engines), you (in a nutshell)
remove the front and rear trailing-side spark plugs
disconnect circuit relay and igniter connector
connect the SST (Mazda diagnostic tool) where the spark plugs would go
crank while having the accelerator pedal fully pressed (called "de-choke" mode)
And that will give you the compression ratio (or just kPa number) for each rotor, which will tell you how good or bad the seals are.
If it's a Mazda dealer he SHOULD be able to provide the information.
If not the symptoms for bad seals are bad fuel economy, less power and bad idle. So it's all subjective to tell.
You can always ask if the seals have ever been changed on that car.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 22
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From: Santa Monica, CA
Okay, would it be alright to take it to a Mazda mechanic? I have read that they usually do more harm than good...but if it is just a compression test, would this be alright? Also, if I knew a guy who is a mazda specific mechanic, would it be fair to assume he would have the gear and know how to do this? I am glad I am posting in the n00b forum, I truly am a noob...this is my first car, and I truly don't know a lot about cars, but I have always LOVED rx7's, and I am a quick learner, and willing to learn...
Also, is there a really simple way of explaining how ot do a compression if I can't get this guy to do it? Or, correct me if I am wrong, please...
Remove both trailing sparks <--which are those?
Disconnect circuit relay and igniter connector <--pix of what it looks like?
Connect SST, [or pressure meter, yes?] to the spark holes...
Crank with pedal 2 da metal... <-- by crank, you mean turn the key, like starting it, yes?
Like I said, I am truly sorry to be asking such n00b questions, I just want to be sure this thing won't need a rebuild before I plan on doing one myself eventually...I will have $$$ to buy it, but it needs to be a DD for a few months, w/o big issues, as I will not have $$$ to be fixing it for a little while...
TY for bearing with the dumb questions, and I appreciate any help given... ;-)
Also, is there a really simple way of explaining how ot do a compression if I can't get this guy to do it? Or, correct me if I am wrong, please...
Remove both trailing sparks <--which are those?
Disconnect circuit relay and igniter connector <--pix of what it looks like?
Connect SST, [or pressure meter, yes?] to the spark holes...
Crank with pedal 2 da metal... <-- by crank, you mean turn the key, like starting it, yes?
Like I said, I am truly sorry to be asking such n00b questions, I just want to be sure this thing won't need a rebuild before I plan on doing one myself eventually...I will have $$$ to buy it, but it needs to be a DD for a few months, w/o big issues, as I will not have $$$ to be fixing it for a little while...
TY for bearing with the dumb questions, and I appreciate any help given... ;-)
Generally it's safe to get a compression test done by a Mazda dealer. Generally.
You can also do a half-decent compression test using a regular compression tester with the check valve ripped out. Yes, just grab the check nipple and yank it out; total cost = $20.
What kind of RX-7 are you looking at? There are certain RX-7s that I would never buy if I didn't have spare cash and needed to daily drive it. (3rd gens, or heavily modded ones)
Dave
You can also do a half-decent compression test using a regular compression tester with the check valve ripped out. Yes, just grab the check nipple and yank it out; total cost = $20.
What kind of RX-7 are you looking at? There are certain RX-7s that I would never buy if I didn't have spare cash and needed to daily drive it. (3rd gens, or heavily modded ones)
Dave
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Santa Monica, CA
ty for the replies...
@Dave: I am still looking around, waiting for a good deal to pop up, but I am looking at either an FD or FC, year is a non-issue, though the most common years I have seen are '93's and 88's...I would be looking for something as close to stock as possible, because I would like to do the work myself, once I learn how... at this point, I am mainly leaning towards the FC, as they are MUCH cheaper, and I still find them very nice...cheapest FD I have found is 10K...yet I have seen a lot of FC's in the 2k range...
Again, Thank You to all of you that have posted... ;-)
@Dave: I am still looking around, waiting for a good deal to pop up, but I am looking at either an FD or FC, year is a non-issue, though the most common years I have seen are '93's and 88's...I would be looking for something as close to stock as possible, because I would like to do the work myself, once I learn how... at this point, I am mainly leaning towards the FC, as they are MUCH cheaper, and I still find them very nice...cheapest FD I have found is 10K...yet I have seen a lot of FC's in the 2k range...
Again, Thank You to all of you that have posted... ;-)
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 21
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From: NY
3rd generation
well im looking for a third gen shell but if i find a stock full car then i might be inclined to take the opportunity. im having a bit of trouble finding a shell with interior though, will it be cheaper to buy the interior separately and install it myself.?
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