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"Add Coolant" warning + buzzer, even though coolant reservoir is full...?

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Old 04-26-13, 12:26 PM
  #26
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Originally Posted by fiskblk1127 View Post
I have the same problem on my s5 but the wire on the top of my radiator has been pulled from the engine bay and not the sensor. So now I do not know where the wire came from and need to find where i can splice it back 2. Any Ideas?
the wire comes off the passenger side harness. Not sure the color, think Black/brown.

I have the same buzzer issue. Thinking about grounding it out or getting a new one because
1. it doesnt buzz when cold (morning)
2. it buzzes when its hotter out
3. it buzzes when the key is turned to acc
4. the coolant is full, bleed all air out

so why does it buzz only in the morning and when key is turned to acc? thoroughly confused on how that works.
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Old 08-08-13, 12:25 AM
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my fc will do this too but thats because the top of the sensor on the radiator broke and now the wire is bassically just sitting on top of the sensor being grounded to the air box and it seemes to work.. not sure if that helps
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Old 08-10-13, 03:43 AM
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Could be that the sensor is on its way out too maybe? On Fd's the sensor is clearly visible. If the cap is removed and fluids are above the sensor line by all rights the buzzer should go out. If it isn't the sensor must be bad or it's associated wiring.
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Old 08-04-15, 07:41 PM
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So im filling it up by the filler neck, and burping it but when i turn the car off to go refill it (cuz it asks me too) the filler neck is super hot and steam comes out at a high pressure. Is that fine?
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Old 08-04-15, 07:51 PM
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and when i go to top it off, do i top it off at the coolant reservoir or the filler neck?
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Old 03-01-17, 10:14 AM
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VA air bleeder screw on radiator 1988RX vert??

I have had my 88 vert since she was new (my 4th RX) and she has 135K and in excellent shape. Had radiator hoses, oil pan and gasket replaced by local mechanic. All was well for 3 weeks. Last week I started driving and this god awful screaming buzzer went off. Never heard anything like it and it scared the bejesus outta me.. ADD COOLANT. Ok since they just flushed and changed it I went right back home and checked the overflow tank. It was about half full so I added a little. Checked the garage floor and nothing there from a leak. Back on the road and it did it again off and on and finally stopped. I was locally driving and my top speed was 45-48. It didn't do it again for a few days and then yesterday did it again but after two times it stopped. Went out this morning and it didn't do it. Thankfully found lots of info on here about this issue. First thing we will do is the air bleeder process. One post said its 'Top of the radiator where the upper hose connects' but is this on all RXs. Don't want to go on search and destroy mission to find it. I have the service manual on my pc but nothing about where it is. Attached is a pic of the upper hose configuration from the manual. Is that the screw next to the radiator cap? If not can someone post and please tell me exactly where it is.

Also if we need to check the sensor connection to make sure its tight.......Where might that be?

Since I have the service manual on my pc feel free to refer to section/page where it might show what I am looking for.

Thanks so much
Terri
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"Add Coolant" warning + buzzer, even though coolant reservoir is full...?-air-bleeder-screw.jpg  

Last edited by tbenton; 03-01-17 at 10:15 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 03-01-17, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Feel-IX View Post
Hi guys

I read some thread of people that have coolant leaks and etc. but nobody with my exact problem, that's why i'm still creating a new thread.

So, when I started my car today ('86 gxl rx7) , the "ADD COOLANT" light on my dash appeared and a really annoying buzzer came on. I check my coolant reservoir and it's full (the engine was cold). I also removed the coolant filler cap (the one next to the upper radiator hose) and it's full too, plus the fluid got a nice green color...

I also unpluged and repluged the coolant level sensor and the wire and connection seems ok.

Also, last time I drove my rx7 the warning buzzer from my aftermarker oil pressure gauge was going on from time to time. The buzzer comes on whenever oil pressure goes over 55-60 psi (which happened whenever the engine was reving higher than about 3000 rpm). I never heard the buzzer before and I was often reving higher than 3000 rpm...so, even though I wasn't looking at the gauge often, I guess it never went higher than 55-60 before... Oil temp however was normal (165-175).

maybe my 2 problems are linked together ?

thanks

Where is the coolant level sensor? I have an 88 and want to check it

Terri
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Old 03-07-17, 02:16 AM
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I have an 86 and had the screaming buzzer issue, found this post and found the bleeder on my radiator let it warm up slightly, removed the bleed, heard air escape then water put the bleeder back in then no more buzzer.

You can see the bleeder in the pic right above the radiator hose on the corner, mine just requires a lager Philips head screwdriver to R&R.
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Old 03-07-17, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Type 4 Unleashed View Post
I have an 86 and had the screaming buzzer issue, found this post and found the bleeder on my radiator let it warm up slightly, removed the bleed, heard air escape then water put the bleeder back in then no more buzzer.

You can see the bleeder in the pic right above the radiator hose on the corner, mine just requires a lager Philips head screwdriver to R&R.
Thank you so much! We now see the bleeder clearly in our car. It was suggested by another owner that the car should be stone cold before removing the bleeder. May I ask why you suggested warming it up slightly? FYI.....The buzzer has not gone off for a week

Terri
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Old 03-07-17, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by tbenton View Post
Thank you so much! We now see the bleeder clearly in our car. It was suggested by another owner that the car should be stone cold before removing the bleeder. May I ask why you suggested warming it up slightly? FYI.....The buzzer has not gone off for a week

Terri
Letting it warm up slightly allows pressure to build so the air will bleed off when you remove the bleeder screw.
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Old 03-07-17, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by littlebit421 View Post
Letting it warm up slightly allows pressure to build so the air will bleed off when you remove the bleeder screw.
Got it!
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Old 03-07-17, 10:41 AM
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really doesnt matter if it is cold or slightly warm
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Old 03-07-17, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution View Post
really doesnt matter if it is cold or slightly warm
Thanks, I have been told both things by different people
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Old 03-07-17, 03:45 PM
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Just be careful not to round off the bleeder screw, it is plastic and very easy to do.
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Old 03-07-17, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by littlebit421 View Post
Just be careful not to round off the bleeder screw, it is plastic and very easy to do.
What he said. I used a larger Philip's head screwdriver that fit the bleeder very well, if you use a smaller one it will strip out the plug.
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Old 03-08-17, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by littlebit421 View Post
Just be careful not to round off the bleeder screw, it is plastic and very easy to do.
I wondered about that since its plastic and flat and OLD. Will use very large Phillips and will be very careful. Thanks
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Old 03-17-17, 02:56 PM
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I had the same issue a few months back it keeped reocuring, if it happens again check the plastic endtanks in your radior are not leaking, mine have a very slow leak that took 3months to set off the alarm again. Replaced with a new aluminum radioator fixed everything and dropped the temps too
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Old 08-30-17, 07:13 PM
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Onmy 3rd gen the coolant buzzer goes off after warming up. Its on for a dew minutes then turns off again. Coolant level is good and so is the oil. Noticed the connector was not connected to anything. Wierd stuff man
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Old 08-30-17, 07:15 PM
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The wires are connected to the coolant neck located next to the alternator but then it is just hanging on the side of the motor with a plug that is not plugged on the other end
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Old 09-12-17, 06:31 PM
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Id have to concur its most likely air. double check for any brittle plastic connectors or old rubber hose ends. Even a leaky rad cap.
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Old 09-13-17, 09:41 AM
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Yep it was air...burped and all is good
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