I'm gonna start rebuilding the engine soon, all seals, o-rings, hoses everything. So I was wondering what I can remove from the engine, like EGR etc and if there is a writeup on any of this for the FC.
I have found for the FD but not FC, maybe I'm not searching enough, anyway, hope anyone takes time and helps me out, thanks!

 

I'd suggest keeping all that stuff in place for now, then removing it later on (why do you want to remove it?) after the engine is broken in and you've worked any problems out.

 

It was the plan, what I ment was if there is any way to simplify anything.

 

to be honest, theres not all that much on the fc's to remove, cat, air pump, and whatever else they sell in the block off kit, which i believe is egr and BAC, the little baby rats nest

download the fsm for your car, it will give you a more indepth look at what everything does, it can be found for download in the faq section

one of the beauties of the FC over the FD is theres not a ton of bullshit to rip out

 

Most of the emissions "simplifying" that people do results in a car with multiple problems. Unless you are absolutely sure how to do it properly, keep it stock until the engine is running correctly after the rebuild and then start messing with it.

Keep in mind that the only emission component removal which results in a power increase is cat removal.

EGR removal really has no effect either way for anything.

Things like BAC, thermowax, etc. are not emissions components and should be left in place if you want a car that starts easily and actually idles. Just remember: BAC removal is stupid. The throttle body mod is stupid. Cold start thermowax removal is stupid.

 

Thanks! The engine will be kept stock untill I see that it's working properly, then I guess the cats and air pump and possibly EGR will be removed (along with other mods). By the way, have any of you any experience, pros/cons with modifying the oil metering pump so it can take oil from a separate tank? Thinking of a small electric pump that feeds oil from the tank into the omp, any pointers?
Regards.

 

rotary aviation sells a nice kit for it, pro's are your getting fresh clean 2stroke rather then used oil at the proper amounts no matter what rpm, removes alot of the mild risk of premixing with possible uneven distribution, but even that is slight

only con i can think of is its another fluid you must keep checking, if your a lazy person, not saying YOU are, then this is not a good idea since you might forget to check and bad things will happen

its up to you if you think its worth it

 

I personally don't see much value in running 2 stroke through the metering oil pump. It's just another thing to maintain when the stock metering oil system works fine.

 

^+1 especially the mechanical ones,

Though I wouldn't trust anything on the FD, but that's a whole different convo in itself lol

 

Listen to Aaron Cake.

Egr is good to have because it could prevent that apex seal destroying detonation if you have an underlying lean mixture or hot combustion problem.

Air pump and cat are good to have just so you don't give yourself asthma sitting there at idle at a stop light. If you want a couple horse power: hollow out the pre-cats.

All the idle stuff is awesome because it makes your car run well and doesn't give you headaches.

Anyways enough of my opinion, here is a good write up for the throttle body mod if you decide to go that route:
http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html

That site has tons of info by the way it is a good site.

 

I don't quite agree with the statement about EGR. The 13B has so much natural EGR that additional EGR isn't really a concern. Mazda has multiple times removed EGR, then added it again, then removed it again. But removing it won't get you anything anyway...

 

+1^

though it will give you one less thing to look at

weight savings yo!


ok ok ill stop

 

I'll tell you why I don't agree. After smog checking by now probably a thousand Rx7s due to me working next to a rotary shop for almost 6 years... contrary to popular belief most of them have elevated levels of NoX. Typically not in the failing range although that is the case from time to time as per the last 4 forum member's Rx7s I smogged. It is not uncommon to see a stock Rx7s pass the smog check with around 400-500 ppm of Nox which is really high and about twice the average.

EGRs are great in any car in my opinion because they help keep combustion temperatures down even in rotaries... Now a good running rotary shouldn't have any problem with NoX but that is not the case with people who daily drive and beat their Rx7 and have to take it in for a smog check.

 

^ i cant remember the last time i took either of my rx7s to inspections