88 vert with t2 swap will only start with starting fluid then runs great! Need help!
05-28-12, 02:42 PM
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88 vert with t2 swap will only start with starting fluid then runs great! Need help!
Swapped a s5 t2 in my s4 vert. When I turn my key to the one position I don't hear the fuel pump prime the system. I spray starting fluid in the intake and it fires up and runs like a champ! Turn it off and it don't start again... Has mild street port, walbro 255 pump, rc 550 main and rc 750 secondary, stock turbo, ported waste gate, n332 ecu, rtek 1.7, aem peak and hold 10 channel box,... I'm sure there's more... I don't know why but when the car starts it shows 30 lbs of fuel pressure but when I turn the key to "on" it doesn't show any pressure. I'm confused please help!!!
05-28-12, 08:58 PM
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Satch is right.
The fuel pump doesn't come on with the key on, but with the key in the "start" position, after the engine begins turning on it's own, the intake air opens the MAF enough to kick the internal switch to turn the fuel pump on.
My point is, it sounds like the part of the relay that controls the "start" part of the fuel pump has failed in some way.
Good luck man. Wiring problems can get... interesting.
The fuel pump doesn't come on with the key on, but with the key in the "start" position, after the engine begins turning on it's own, the intake air opens the MAF enough to kick the internal switch to turn the fuel pump on.
My point is, it sounds like the part of the relay that controls the "start" part of the fuel pump has failed in some way.
Good luck man. Wiring problems can get... interesting.
05-29-12, 06:56 AM
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Ok so yesterday I hotwired the fuel pump to a switch to ensure it was coming on. And now that I know it's turning on but the car still won't start on its own without the use of starter fluid!?!?! It makes no sense to me why it won't start.
05-29-12, 07:54 AM
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Check your AFM. I had one that had just a little catch in it. It took a lot of air flow to get it moving. I just cleaned the pivot point and used a light lube problem solved. If you have a leak betwen the AFM and the TB the results will be the same.
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05-29-12, 08:14 AM
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Ok I'll check that. I know I sprayed some starter fluid on all gaskets to listen for idle changes but didn't have any leaks... Noob question: by afm you mean air/fuel meter? And where would that be located on the t2? Keep in mind this is my first fc... I'm used to workin on my 2 fb's...
05-29-12, 11:25 AM
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I removed mine a long time ago but if I remember corectly it is right after the air filter. With the key on if you move it by hand you should hear the fuel pump kick on. It needs to move very easily so the slightest air flow will get you fuel.Yes AFM air flow meter.
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05-29-12, 11:38 AM
#10
For an S4 ECU. S5 pins are different locations.
Check the ECU reading for the Water Thermosensor and the Start signal as they play an integral role in starting a cold engine as a correct signal would tell the ECU to use more fuel when starting a cold engine. A bad signal and the ECU will use much less fuel to start the car. Pin 2I, Water Thermosensor, should read 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and a cold engine and .4 volts completely warmed. Pin 3B, starter signal, should be about 8 to ten volts w/key to start.
Check the ECU reading for the Water Thermosensor and the Start signal as they play an integral role in starting a cold engine as a correct signal would tell the ECU to use more fuel when starting a cold engine. A bad signal and the ECU will use much less fuel to start the car. Pin 2I, Water Thermosensor, should read 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and a cold engine and .4 volts completely warmed. Pin 3B, starter signal, should be about 8 to ten volts w/key to start.
05-29-12, 11:59 AM
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For an S4 ECU. S5 pins are different locations.
Check the ECU reading for the Water Thermosensor and the Start signal as they play an integral role in starting a cold engine as a correct signal would tell the ECU to use more fuel when starting a cold engine. A bad signal and the ECU will use much less fuel to start the car. Pin 2I, Water Thermosensor, should read 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and a cold engine and .4 volts completely warmed. Pin 3B, starter signal, should be about 8 to ten volts w/key to start.
Check the ECU reading for the Water Thermosensor and the Start signal as they play an integral role in starting a cold engine as a correct signal would tell the ECU to use more fuel when starting a cold engine. A bad signal and the ECU will use much less fuel to start the car. Pin 2I, Water Thermosensor, should read 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and a cold engine and .4 volts completely warmed. Pin 3B, starter signal, should be about 8 to ten volts w/key to start.
For an S4 ECU. S5 pins are different locations.
Check the ECU reading for the Water Thermosensor and the Start signal as they play an integral role in starting a cold engine as a correct signal would tell the ECU to use more fuel when starting a cold engine. A bad signal and the ECU will use much less fuel to start the car. Pin 2I, Water Thermosensor, should read 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and a cold engine and .4 volts completely warmed. Pin 3B, starter signal, should be about 8 to ten volts w/key to start.
Check the ECU reading for the Water Thermosensor and the Start signal as they play an integral role in starting a cold engine as a correct signal would tell the ECU to use more fuel when starting a cold engine. A bad signal and the ECU will use much less fuel to start the car. Pin 2I, Water Thermosensor, should read 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and a cold engine and .4 volts completely warmed. Pin 3B, starter signal, should be about 8 to ten volts w/key to start.
Last edited by mar3; 05-29-12 at 09:05 PM. Reason: Merged back-to-back posts...
05-29-12, 01:16 PM
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I'm not sure of the ecu. It was claimed to be an s5 but I didn't do the swap... It says n332. There's a koyo rad in the car with no sensors goin to it... The green plug to the back of the water pump goes to the ecu right?
05-29-12, 01:31 PM
#14
Edit:N326 - 86-87 NA
N332 - 87 Turbo
N327 - 88 NA
N333 - 88 Turbo
N338 - 88 Vert
N350 - 89 NA California
N351 - 89 NA
N352 - 89 Vert California
N353 - 89 Vert
N370 - 89 Turbo
05-29-12, 02:07 PM
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Wait a second.
your first statement is : Swapped an s5 TII into an S4 Vert.
Did you do the Swap yourself??
is the S5 engine running on the s4 Electronics?S4 Harness?..
this is a vital piece of info needed..you are leaving out info.
your first statement is : Swapped an s5 TII into an S4 Vert.
Did you do the Swap yourself??
is the S5 engine running on the s4 Electronics?S4 Harness?..
this is a vital piece of info needed..you are leaving out info.
05-29-12, 02:24 PM
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And yea sorry I worded it wrong I didn't do the swap. I just bought it this way.
Last edited by mar3; 05-29-12 at 09:06 PM. Reason: Merged back-to-back posts...
05-29-12, 07:14 PM
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Ok,well if the s4 electronics are running the S5 keg,that isn't a problem.
The ECU should be a N333 or N332.
Now,next thing:which injectors are you running??S4 or S5..Part # if possible.
If the harness is S4 N/A does it have a Resistor pack on it?(located by the front passenger side between the strut tower and front of car.looks like a silver box with a big connector on it)
The ECU should be a N333 or N332.
Now,next thing:which injectors are you running??S4 or S5..Part # if possible.
If the harness is S4 N/A does it have a Resistor pack on it?(located by the front passenger side between the strut tower and front of car.looks like a silver box with a big connector on it)
05-29-12, 09:32 PM
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I may be new here but I think you guys are getting a little crazy. It sounds like the air flow sensor isn't moving under cranking so not running the fuel pump. sticky afm or leak in piping to tb. check the easy stuff first. It runs well once started. Turn the key on lift the flapper to prime the fuel system if it starts I may be right if not I'm an idiot and you wasted two minutes of your life.
Dave
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05-29-12, 09:48 PM
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Ok,well if the s4 electronics are running the S5 keg,that isn't a problem.
The ECU should be a N333 or N332.
Now,next thing:which injectors are you running??S4 or S5..Part # if possible.
If the harness is S4 N/A does it have a Resistor pack on it?(located by the front passenger side between the strut tower and front of car.looks like a silver box with a big connector on it)
The ECU should be a N333 or N332.
Now,next thing:which injectors are you running??S4 or S5..Part # if possible.
If the harness is S4 N/A does it have a Resistor pack on it?(located by the front passenger side between the strut tower and front of car.looks like a silver box with a big connector on it)
05-29-12, 09:51 PM
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I may be new here but I think you guys are getting a little crazy. It sounds like the air flow sensor isn't moving under cranking so not running the fuel pump. sticky afm or leak in piping to tb. check the easy stuff first. It runs well once started. Turn the key on lift the flapper to prime the fuel system if it starts I may be right if not I'm an idiot and you wasted two minutes of your life.
Dave
Dave
