RhyvWoL

So here is my problem. When I drive my car to any destination then it sits for 1 1/2 - 2 hours it will not start. When I try to start the car it smells like its flooded really bad, but I can roll the car off and start it this since its a manual transmission. It smells as if its running too rich, but i could be wrong. I bought a Hayne Repair Manual and it says in the guide that it could be multiple things. Ill list them and ask for your opinion in a moment. Also when it is started cold after its sat for the night it will start perfectly, and every so often when its idling to warm up it will sound as if it jumps just for a second, then continues on its way. Also when switching from 2nd to thrid gear it will back fire sometimes.
I dont know much about cars so I really just listed all the things that are unusual about the car.

Basically i would like to know what any of you might think it could be. I dont really know where i should start, I dont want to replace random parts that dont need replacing.

The list in the book has a diagnosis of 27 different things it could be. I have taken things out that i know it couldnt be.
List:
5 malfunctioning electronic spark advance system
7. Faulty throttle sensor
8. Injectors malfunctioning
9. faulty (hot start assist system) pressure regulator control solenoid
10. Faulty intake air temperature sensor on dynamic chamber.
11, bad sensory air injection system water thermo sensor
12. air intake system air leak
13. malfunction in bypass air control (BAC) system or idle speed control (ISC) system
14. Faulty secondary air injection system air control valve (ACV)
17 Defective air flow meter and/or intake air temperature sensor
20. Faulty fuel pump control system
21. defective fuel system solenoid resistor.
22. leaking injectors
24. faulty crankcase and evaporate emission control system purge control valve.

Any help is appreciated.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Hot-start problems are very common in S4s, and sometimes in S5s. Most of the time, it is just due to a combination of engine age (reduced compression) & the extra-rich factory cranking fuel map. In my own car, I inject a third of the normal fuel amount when warm to hot (programmable computer: Rtek 2.1).

In some cases, people have had success sending their injectors out to be cleaned. In those cases, leaky injectors were causing fuel to drip until fuel pressure bled off after shutdown. The test for this requires removing the injectors from the engine, pressurizing the system (fuel pump test connector), and then looking for fuel leaking out. For the secondary injectors on an NA, this is fairly easy. But the primary injectors are under the intake manifold, so that's a lot more complicated.

There are a variety of work-arounds for the issue, but the most common is a fuel cut switch to shut the fuel pump off when flipped. You can also do the standard flood-clear procedure & pull both EGI fuses from under the hood. Crank the engine for 5-10 seconds, replace the fuses, and then start the car with the throttle open. The only true fixes (assuming the injectors are not leaking) are going to be a programmable computer or an engine with like-new compression.

RhyvWoL

Okay well if my injectors are dirty could i use some sea foam or other type of additive to clean my injectors just to see if it helps? I dont know if anything like that will hurt the car. I cant really afford to have them "sent off" to be cleaned since this is my everyday car atm.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

I like seafoam, and I think it's worth a try, but no additive is ever as good as having the injectors professionally cleaned. I would wire in a fuel cut switch for the time being and save up to have them cleaned. I have to use a fuel cut switch to start my car at any temp. It's a good anti-theft device, at least.

RhyvWoL

Okay thanks for the input. Have any suggestions on injector cleaners that i can try out in the mean time? I was told by an older mechanic that I should run a tank of super unleaded (normally run mid grade) and after i use the full tank to get about a half tank of super and use sea foam. And on the third round use high grade alcohol mixed with the fuel. Whether this will work i do not know.
And for the fuel pump switch, is there a guide somewhere on here for that?
One more question. What do you mean by "sending injectors to be cleaned"? Who and where would I take them to have them done? Would a local auto parts store do it or is it a dealer thing?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Additives are generally useless. Professional cleaning of injectors restores them to like-new working condition.

http://www.witchhunter.com/
http://www.rceng.com/Fuel-Injector-Cleaning-P43C0.aspx

But like I said earlier, it's a long shot that your injectors are actually leaking to cause a problem. In most cases, it's just old engine + rich fuel map. That's it.

shiznizzletech

I am having the same issues with my 88. I bought 4 new injectors which arrived today!! Let me know if the sea foam and booze worked (if you tried).