My$800S14

hello, i just bought a near mint 88 vert (121,200 miles), when i bought the car the guy (owned the car for 7 months and before that it was owned and garage kept by an old man) said a mechanic told him that one of the injectors was stuck so it ran crappy. pulled the spark plugs...they were black, which is to be expected, i replaced the trailing spark plugs because the guy had some at his house, and i replaced the secondary injectors, just to be safe, since they are easy to get to, i drove it home from Deltona to Orlando (about 1 hour) with no trouble, except for it was rather weak in the power department, and it would hickup either under 80mph or 3000rpm, which is hard to tell because 80mph and 3000rpm are simultaneous, the next day i replaced the leading spark plugs and it made quite the difference there is more power, and there are no more pulsations. However it still feels slow, it just seems that there should be more power. Also, my coolant light is nearly constant. Before i left Deltona, i bought some distilled water, and added some, the buzzer didnt go off for a few minutes, shut the car off, put gas in it, turned it back on, then the warning started again (city driving) but the car ran plenty cool well below half way, but then once i got on the highway and upped the rpm's, speed, and air going through the radiator, the noise stopped and only came on maybe once or twice during my stint on the highway toward home, then once i got back off the highway it came back on almost immediately, and then would turn on and off through-out the rest of my city street driving till i got home i hope this is not coolant seals, i understand that it could be needed to bleed the coolant(might as well flush it and put the correct mixture in). I believe the guy that i bought the car from was putting tap water in it to stop the buzzer noise...could this corrode the seals? any help is GREATLY appreciated and i hope i was descriptive enough if not i would be happy to answer any questions to the best of my knowledge. Also neither one of my power windows work but the guy said that the drivers used to work, could this be the the relay problem or likely bad switches, or motors?

'Thanks
Ron'

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If there is a sticking or bad primary injector, it will cause the car to run very rich and could cause the low RPM sluggishness you describe.

First though, a good look through is what's needed. Check compression, replace plug wires, make sure the cats aren't clogged, fix any vacuum leaks, adjust TPS, and then have the injectors professionally serviced. Probably also worth setting the idle mixture properly after the injectors are clean, and you'll likely need to readjust the idle RPM as well.

As for the coolant, just check for leaks first. There may be a small pinhole somewhere. Sounds like the cooling system has been neglected.

The broken power windows are almost certainly due to a bad power window switch. The contacts corrode. You can clean them off as a temporary fix.

My$800S14

ok sounds like ive got some work to do this will be fun, i will likely do an emisions delete when i pull the upper intake manifold off to get to the primarys

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You'll gain nothing by removing the emissions stuff, and there is a high risk of messing up the removal, which then causes a lot of other problems.

Cat removal is the one that results in the gains. At which point all you need to do is remove the air pump, block off the ACV and you're good to go. Of course then the aux ports won't be opening, so see the FAQ...

boostaddictB89

i have a 89 turbo 2 and the low coolant buzzer is a constant for me too. and damn is that super annoying . my problem is what i beleave is the water pump gasket. its not a major leak but eaven though my coolant is full it still buzzez and pops a light on the dash . i would think that the light would go off bc its full but appearently not . ill just try and put a new gasket and see where that gets me