New to Mazda the car starts and runs but drops under 1000 rpm then dies it used to only do it on first cold start and now even when it's hot it will drive just fine untill I stop then dies where should I start looking? R2 basicly stock

 

vacuum leak more than likely

 

If checked vacuum lines their all fine

 

welcome to the board.

i will assume "R2" is supposed to be T2???

how long have you had the car and has it EVER idled normally since you had it? have you done any engine work recently?

how did you check for leaks? too many times people have said/believed they checked for all vacuum leaks, and still had a leak.

 

It's the na if only had it for about a month and this just happened over night and I sprayed a tiny bit of alcohol in every open line and around all plugged in lines and listened to the engine.

 

well, i still say get a vacuum diagram and go through the system, but i'll stop badgering you there.

have you given it a tuneup since you got it? since this happened overnight, you can also check to see if the CAS is loose.

just to satisfy my own curiosity, what is R2?

 

When you look up part at oreillys etc online and look up a 7, when it asks the motor, in the descriptions it shows R2

Ya know, 2 rotors, R2

 

I have the Haynes Manual for the diagrams I will still look at them again thanks for the welcome and help and What is the cas? And where is it located? Is it a sensor?

 

Yeah I was assuming that was the engine like I said I'm new to Mazda and rotery engines lol

 

And I changed the plugs I havnt gotten wires yet

 

makes sense. i have seen that. however, i never thought anyone actually said out loud.

no worries. i understand. you're a rotor-head now. you just say 13B or whatever.

CAS = crank angle sensor

driver's side, in the front cover of the engine.

 

Crank angle sensor it's not loose no vacuum leaks and took the fuel filter off and it ran fine for a few min then started dying again but it wasn't clogged don't know what elts to look at

 

Jumper the fuel check connector, check the water thermosensor and then fuel pressure. And it still sounds like a vacuum leak.