Larger plug has the Black/White wire. Check for voltage w/key to on before I grow old and die.

 

Looks like a bullet connector to me.

 

If the B/W wire does not have voltage w/key to on then it really doesn't matter whether you have plug wires or not.

 

i already stated above that i checked it and it is getting power i dont have a multimeter but i have a test light that buzzes and it came on and buzzed so it is getting power

 

Make sure the CAS is plugged in correctly. And how did you test for spark? Best way to check the coils would be to unplug the plugs from the leading coil for example and place the plug ends near the coil boot so that there is a fraction of an inch between the two and turn the engine over and observe for the presence of any spark.

 

So after some research i unplugged the AFM AND IT STARTED (: it was short lived tho it died after a couple seconds, but still, so does this mean the afm is bad??

 

Could very well be. You could jumper the fuel check connector and that should cause the engine to run longer but it will run very rich and eventually heat up the exhaust manifold til it glows and don't drive the car if you do jumper the check connector.

 

Could you post a pic of the fuel check connector? and also no one said anything past disconnecting it..should i reconnect it and try to see if the motor stays running?? and thanks for taking the time to help with my vague descriptions

 

so i have pretty much narrowed it down to be the AFM, when its plugged in it doesn even try to start the tach doesnt move or anything, when its unplugged though, it will try and the tach gives feed back. how and what should i do to go about fixing this? and how much are AFM's if i need a new one?

 

Use the used parts thread as a new one would run about $900. W/the AFM connected and key to on the Brown/White wire at the TPS plug would read 5 volts (obviously a Volt Meter would be of use). If it read a very low number then one of the sensors fed by this wire, and there are a handful is shorting out this voltage, which is required to power various sensors. If there isn't the 5 volts on the Br/W wire w/key to on w/the AFM connected, but there is the 5 volts w/the AFM unplugged then the AFM is likely shorting out this wire.

 

Alright ill try to get a reader tomorrow, and if the AFM is shorting out the wire im taking it as there is no fixing it?

 

Probably not unless you really know how to repair electrical equipment. One of the wires to the unit might have a short in it as well which would be an easy fix. Two of the wires run to the ECU which could be tested and there is an ohm test in the service manual that explains how to test the terminals of the AFM.

 

so i was messing around with the AFM today and opened up the air box took out the filter and with key ON i pushed the flap open and heard the what i assume is the fuel pump then i had a second party try to start the car but it still wouldnt start, then i unplugged the afm and it started idled and died again, this leads me to believe its possibly the connector itself instead of the afm??

 

ordered a new afm. hoping that this solves the problem (:

 

Remanufactured or a used one from a board member? Remanufactured tend not to work.

 

check resistance of spark plug leads. Should be around 14kohm~16kohm for new leads. If you've got the original coils in there though, they probably won't get through with that much resistance. I put some old leads with 8kohm~9kohm resistance in with some old but cleaned coils and an old but cleaned set of NGK plugs and got spark after futzing for months with newer plugs, new leads, but old coils to no avail.

 

sorry for the late reply but it is from a known running 87 from one of my citys junk yards, sister yard, if that makes sense

 

SHE LIVES!!! Its was the afm. Thanks for helping my narrow it down (: