Hello everyone,

My name is Mike and I'm having the dreaded 3800rpm hesitation and am currently running through all the tests of the car that seem to be linked to this issue. I came across a TPS adjustment article published by RETed back in 2004 as well as some others from this site's search option.

I've done some repairs to the grounds of the car, checked for a plugged catalytic converter, and now am testing the TPS of the car. I originally did this test and followed all the procedures it listed, and then verified to the RETed article. My main concern is that in the 13betc.com article it states that measuring between terminals "A" and "C" I should read 5k ohm regardless of idle or wide open throttle and no other article seems to mention that. My readings from "A" to "C" (per 13betc) were 4875 ohms at idle and 450 ohms at wide open. Everything else seems to be on point other than those readings. Would anyone be able to confirm that those readings are proof of failure, and if not, what would be the next best step in possibly curing this hesitation?

Thank you so much for any info you may have, and I look forward to hearing from you.

 

Don't do it by ohms, do it by volts

Take the car for a half hour drive, than w/key on put your meter on DC volts, probe the green/white wire with the red,and ground the black one, than adjust the tps so it reads 1VDC

 

not that I won't give that a try, but from what I've researched the ohms method is much more accurate.

Does anyone else have an input on the ohms method I've described?

 

volts works better

the computer reads the tps in VOLTs, so why would you set it according to OHMs when its a completely different measurement?

You could set the OHMs correctly, but then you change what the computer reads in VOLTs, which is what it reads

Theres many threads that setting the TPS by volts works better than ohms

 

Your hesitation problem is likely the result of poor grounding or a specific issue related to the secondary injectors.