1984 gs rx7 oil cooler front mount mod
07-03-13, 10:03 PM
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1984 gs rx7 oil cooler front mount mod
hey guys whats up i am looking to do a front mount oil cooler swap on my 84' rx7 GS, it has that awful leaking o-ring beehive cooler, and i heard if its leaking just go ahead and do the front mount oil cooler mod, any one have a link to a swap of it? pictures of the build? it would be greatly appreciated thanks!, and yes im going throughout the first gen page now!!
07-04-13, 08:07 PM
#3
if you're doing the conversion because someone said "just go ahead and convert if the beehive starts to leak", then that's a pretty thin rationale. changing the oil rings is really not a big deal and it's certainly much less work than converting to a radiator-type.
if you WANT a radiator-type cooler, then that's a completely different story.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...cooler-790932/
that link overviews one of a few ways to do it.
if you WANT a radiator-type cooler, then that's a completely different story.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...cooler-790932/
that link overviews one of a few ways to do it.
07-05-13, 10:30 AM
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hey guys thanks for the replies, so you guys would recommend just keeping the beehive then? i mean o-rings are less money then the FM oil set up, so i might stick with that then. So CookBoy do do you have any pictures or like a write up on how i would check to see if my oil coolers even working, and how to take it off and put new o-rings in? meaning is there anything special i should look for or not touch or not take off a certain bolt?i dont have much technical mechanical knowledge this is my first car im working on my self essentially. everything ive done so far has been on my own so any tips on this oil cooler tear down and fix would be great! im gonnna scan the fourm for some now. 
thanks guys!
thanks guys!
07-05-13, 03:23 PM
#5
I'll tell you what I know, but I'd recommend searching 'beehive leak o rings' and some variants of that and reading a bunch of threads. I'm not really mechanically inclined but I manage to do some things that I used to think were beyond my abilities. Reading a lot of threads gives you the edge of others experience and builds your knowledge base and confidence.
With that said, the following is with the understanding that you want to keep your car and have it reliable for a long time.
Have a 21 and a 23 mm open end wrench? You'll need both. This is also a good time to replace all your coolant hoses and flush your radiator, block, and heater. I flushed each individually.
Some of the hoses may be available only at the dealer, I don't know. I went to the dealer for the o rings. Id also maybe get a new mazda oem thermostat. I'd go to rockauto.com and order all the hoses, maybe a clutch slave if you feel you may need it, and the hydraulic line for the clutch. Maybe a clutch master while you're at it. The cylinders don't last forever an with the slave cylinder out of the way the job is slightly easier.
The day before you're gonna do the job thoroughly clean the area of oily mess. I used 'Gunk Engine Brite' and a toilet brush. I use a leaf blower to dry the motor after, but that may be overkill. Or not.
No need to remove oil line banjo bolt at the beehive. It's been said it'll never be a solid connection again, so I didn't. Using the 21 and 23 wrenches, loosen oil line at front of motor. (The 23 may be too thick, mine was thin enough. if too thick, grind her down.) This is made easier by removing the fan from the water pump. This also affords you an opportunity to clean the fan with simple green or equivalent. It will look brand new when you're done.
A compact mirror will help you to see the bottom of the beehive, which is not necessary, but helpful.
Don't know what else to say, but what I've said assumes you've read a bunch of the suggested threads, and includes both what I did and what others suggested to me.
When you're done you'll feel really good about your car's reliability. And cleanliness.
Edit: rather than spending the money on the front mount cooler and associated bits, you've spent it on renewing things that probably need renewing.
With that said, the following is with the understanding that you want to keep your car and have it reliable for a long time.
Have a 21 and a 23 mm open end wrench? You'll need both. This is also a good time to replace all your coolant hoses and flush your radiator, block, and heater. I flushed each individually.
Some of the hoses may be available only at the dealer, I don't know. I went to the dealer for the o rings. Id also maybe get a new mazda oem thermostat. I'd go to rockauto.com and order all the hoses, maybe a clutch slave if you feel you may need it, and the hydraulic line for the clutch. Maybe a clutch master while you're at it. The cylinders don't last forever an with the slave cylinder out of the way the job is slightly easier.
The day before you're gonna do the job thoroughly clean the area of oily mess. I used 'Gunk Engine Brite' and a toilet brush. I use a leaf blower to dry the motor after, but that may be overkill. Or not.
No need to remove oil line banjo bolt at the beehive. It's been said it'll never be a solid connection again, so I didn't. Using the 21 and 23 wrenches, loosen oil line at front of motor. (The 23 may be too thick, mine was thin enough. if too thick, grind her down.) This is made easier by removing the fan from the water pump. This also affords you an opportunity to clean the fan with simple green or equivalent. It will look brand new when you're done.
A compact mirror will help you to see the bottom of the beehive, which is not necessary, but helpful.
Don't know what else to say, but what I've said assumes you've read a bunch of the suggested threads, and includes both what I did and what others suggested to me.
When you're done you'll feel really good about your car's reliability. And cleanliness.
Edit: rather than spending the money on the front mount cooler and associated bits, you've spent it on renewing things that probably need renewing.
Last edited by Cookboy; 07-05-13 at 03:35 PM.
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